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Old 06-17-2015, 04:01 PM   #101
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Although I've continued to discuss the thought[s] of cutting out huge holes in hull, bottom, or top of a boat for major apparatus removal (particularly fuel tanks as what the OP began this thread for)...

Luckily our Tolly was designed so that with both salon sole engine hatches removed, also with port and/or starboard large salon window[s] removed, it is capable to remove either engine via through boat overhead I-Beam wheel tracks and come-alongs. The problem still remains regarding getting out either of our side of engine 100 gallon fuel tanks (if ever needed - God forbid) without major reshuffle of the engines or worse yet cutting up the rest of salon sole with full-on cabinet/appliance removals. Or of course... lifting an engine out first.

Happy Boat-Shuffle Daze! - Art
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Old 06-17-2015, 05:47 PM   #102
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On the basis that without pics it never happened, here is the story.
1. Remove island bench in galley to reveal a 6' x 6' opening in the salon floor.
2. Lift engine up using A-frame
3. Slide engine out rear doors along a couple of planks using rollers
4. lift engine over transom

The old fuel tanks came out in one piece the same way. Side tanks were 275 G each, rear tanks were 225 G each. The old tanks were used as templates although the rear tanks were made deeper to increase capacity.

The bilge was scrubbed and painted before new tanks, engines and reconditioned gears went back in.

Quite straightforward, but it does take a bit of time to do.
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Old 06-17-2015, 07:09 PM   #103
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I noticed items surrounding galley sink changed... 2nd pict even shows a plate standing in drainer! Having dinner while this was evolving?? Only kidding - sort of

How long did all this take?
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Old 06-17-2015, 07:36 PM   #104
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I noticed items surrounding galley sink changed... 2nd pict even shows a plate standing in drainer! Having dinner while this was evolving?? Only kidding - sort of

How long did all this take?
During that phase I was actually living aboard while on the hard, so breakfast dishes in drainer, not dinner!

For the new tank replacement, and repower part of the refit I'm not too sure of time required. It all started with fitting Naiad stabilisers, and just as that was being completed we discovered a leaky fuel tank. Ended up with pretty much everything new in the ER and 10 months all up.

The expanded fuel capacity and scope of the refit was in response to a shipping quote to Australia of about $100k plus $25k for cradle and assorted charges at both ends. I figured I would make the trip on my own bottom - spend money on fuel and refit instead of freight. But after some cruising in the PNW I did ship home as freight rates had halved in the interim.
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Old 06-17-2015, 08:14 PM   #105
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Here is a video on engine replacement through the side of a Hatteras 53 MY. I was looking at possibly purchasing one so I wanted to understand all I could about them. I was told by a number of yards and fiberglass guys that this was the standard procedure on these boats for an engine replacement. It is long but gives you a good idea.
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Old 06-17-2015, 08:34 PM   #106
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And then there is this method which I was also told was standard operation on some...
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Old 06-17-2015, 08:56 PM   #107
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Here is a video on engine replacement through the side of a Hatteras 53 MY. I was looking at possibly purchasing one so I wanted to understand all I could about them. I was told by a number of yards and fiberglass guys that this was the standard procedure on these boats for an engine replacement. It is long but gives you a good idea.
Hell of a nice restoration video. Music was spot on! Wonder what fuel usage she gets at WOT? Fast pleasure yacht - for Sure!
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Old 06-17-2015, 08:58 PM   #108
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"In their view a patch of this size compromises the integrity of the hull, and while it may be fine for years of service, the hull strength is still compromised."

Hmmm..it may be fine for years of service but the hull strength is compromised?

If done right, I don't buy it. I've seen massive fiberglass repairs done and they go through complete surveys and pass with flying colors. In many cases they have to pass class surveys.

We had a 42' GB that a charter ran up on the breakwater into Keywest. The only thing that kept it from sinking was that it was to well hung up on the rocks. Once the hull was repaired it was stronger than new due to the fact they added stringers during the repair. It passed an after the fact insurance survey no problem. This was like 30 years ago. And it's still out there running around.
i use to deliver vikins yrs ago and the 50 ft motor yacht was a 44 ft hull with 6 ft added on never a problem, and the 44 motor byacht was a 41 ft hull with a add on, and so was the 46 sport fishermin
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Old 06-18-2015, 06:18 AM   #109
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Another point mentioned was foaming in tanks. Its not unusuall on big boats. In this case I would use a 4lb foam between the tank and hull. And normal mounting methods, straps, neoprene, etc. Absolutey coat the tanks with a good epoxy, I prefer coal tar epoxy.
As they say, YMMV, but I don't think I've ever seen a large boat with foamed in tanks. And I can't imagine why you want to. You just end up with a ready made water/moisture trap. I'd think keeping as much of the sides and bottom of the tank away from direct contact with any surface would be the best way to go.

I'd want air to be able to circulate around my tanks. And hopefully allow me to inspect as much of them as possible. Even if it's only with mirrors or a fiber optic camera.

If they are foamed in you lose most if not all of that.
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Old 06-18-2015, 11:57 AM   #110
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Plastic tanks are usually foamed in .

But with out baffles they are limited to 60 Gallon or so each.

Not bad if there is at least one genuine marine tank, and the rest are plastic boxes for fuel.

Unless you need 2000G per side.
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Old 06-18-2015, 12:34 PM   #111
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Plastic tanks are usually foamed in .

But with out baffles they are limited to 60 Gallon or so each.

Not bad if there is at least one genuine marine tank, and the rest are plastic boxes for fuel.

Unless you need 2000G per side.
Yeah, foamed in under the floor of a center console maybe. But a 2-300 gallon plus tank foamed in place to the the side wall of a trawlers engine room!? I don't think so.
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Old 06-18-2015, 01:35 PM   #112
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300 gallon poly fuel tank on my boat. No foam.
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Old 06-18-2015, 02:03 PM   #113
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my 58 gallon plastic tanks have a baffle in each...it is a 10 inch hole or so molded fight through the middle of the tank...maybe that's how they are doing larger tanks too....
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Old 06-28-2015, 12:37 PM   #114
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Rajun,
I apologize, I'm late to the party here, did you contact your insurance company regarding this issue? Could you claim this as an insurance event?
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Old 06-28-2015, 03:31 PM   #115
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I've not seen any kind of "baffle" in a roto molded tank, interesting. How is it done ?
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Old 06-28-2015, 03:35 PM   #116
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I have a 250 gallon aluminum tank on the bed of my F550. No baffles. The rear axle is rated to carry 17,500 lbs but I can feel the diesel sloshing around in there if its half full. I would not want a tank of any decent size on a boat that was not baffled. Free surface affect and all
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Old 06-29-2015, 08:40 AM   #117
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Rajun,
I apologize, I'm late to the party here, did you contact your insurance company regarding this issue? Could you claim this as an insurance event?
Insurance pays for "sudden and accidental damage". This is niether.
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Old 06-29-2015, 08:52 AM   #118
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I've not seen any kind of "baffle" in a roto molded tank, interesting. How is it done ?
My 58 gallon has a hole molded through the center...

It does affect the sloshing back and forth but a true baffle I cant say it is and though I read it someplace that it was...couldn't just find where I had read it...not in the brochure.

That would be one way even though a waste of space.
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Old 06-29-2015, 02:07 PM   #119
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It would also seem to make the tank stronger.
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Old 07-05-2015, 08:55 AM   #120
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Another solution would be to cut the top off the fuel tank and put a fuel bladder in the tank, ie use it to contain the bladder. If and when the other side goes you will know how to do the fix.

Hope this helps

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