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Old 03-30-2014, 12:03 AM   #1
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Frozen windows- how to unstick?

Not literally frozen but stuck shut. I have 4 sliding windows in my main salon . Two vertical and two horizontal. One opens about 4 inches. The rest don't move at all. They are aluminum frame. The surveyor picked it up but I figured I could just muscle them open. Well, I couldnt. I'm thinking about penetrating oil like kroil or wd40 and letting it soak. Im assuming its some sort of aluminum corosion inside the frames. What do you all think?
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Old 03-30-2014, 02:17 AM   #2
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If you have that furry strip that lines the windows, it's frequently gummed up with algae and moss and other spooge - dish soap and a toothbrush (or similar) and a hose with plenty of water.
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Old 03-30-2014, 02:49 AM   #3
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Try soaking with fresh water. If you can't get a grip on the window due to small pulls, try the suction-type handles that glass folks use.


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Old 03-30-2014, 07:55 AM   #4
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Silicone spray
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Old 03-30-2014, 08:35 AM   #5
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Greetings,
Mr. b. I would hold off on the silicone spray initially. Start with the window that already has some movement. Once you get it to open, it might be easier to visually assess just what the problem is. Make up a soap solution and flood the track all around inside and outside. A spray bottle will allow you to flood the vertical surfaces. Mr. G's suction cup suggestion is a good one. I picked up a couple of those at Harbor Freight for a couple of bucks. Gently work the window back and forth. I would suspect the frames are aluminum extrusions with some convoluted meshing surfaces and the trick is going to be to get your solution into the deepest cracks and crevices. If you have an air compressor it might be possible to blow the solution along into the track. A compressor will also help to blow the soap solution OUT of the track giving you a drier surface to apply your penetrant (As you suggested, Kroil, PB Blaster etc.) Heck you might even try CLR before you apply the oils.
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Old 03-30-2014, 09:30 AM   #6
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Penetrating oil would probably be my first choice.

You need to get some small movement so find a small block of wood, place it on the glass against the frame and then tap it with a small hammer in the direction you want it to move. You're trying to move the frame here, don't hammer against the glass. Also, hit the frame in an upward direction.

Try this in the corners and don't hit hard enough to distort the frame.
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Old 03-30-2014, 09:46 AM   #7
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All good suggestions but I note you said they were all stuck so do not overlook a potential structural problem with compression from above or below Although I do not have the same brand, mine did improve a bit after redoing the bridge floor.
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Old 03-30-2014, 09:51 AM   #8
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Greetings,
Mr. r. Although your suggestion IS an option I cringe at the thought of it if the glass is tempered. It only takes a bit of grit between the glass and the, I assume, rubber bedding/gasket to create a "hard" spot which could initiate glass fracture (explosion) whilst tapping. It doesn't take much sometimes even on the microscopic level. If the glass is laminated, MUCH less possibility of damage.
Just read your post Mr. byu. Good comment.
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Old 03-30-2014, 12:40 PM   #9
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This is a pretty common failure mode for Nordic Tugs with Diamond Sea Glaze ports. I'd recommend posing the question to the NT owners group at SENTOA.org list server.
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Old 03-30-2014, 01:01 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northern Spy View Post
This is a pretty common failure mode for Nordic Tugs with Diamond Sea Glaze ports. I'd recommend posing the question to the NT owners group at SENTOA.org list server.
I did not post the question there, but after posting here , i did a search of the sentoa archives and got pretty much the same answers, soapy water, toothbrush, harbor freight suction tool. As usual, you guys nailed it.

I am not sure I have the diamond seaglaze windows, but regardless, the answers are the same.

I am considering replacing the forward center pilothouse window with some sort of opening window to increase air flow through the cabin. I have seen opening ones on fishing boats and other larger vessels and they seem to hold up well. Does anyone have experience replacing thir windows? It looks like the hardest part would be getting the old windows out. Are NT windows a stock size or are they custom made? I wonder how much they cost?

Sucks I have to wait till next weekend to get to work.

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Old 04-06-2014, 07:48 PM   #11
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The boat is still on the hard. grrrrrr. Anyhow i sprayed some windeX on the aft vertical window and let it run down into the joint. I also sprayed down the edges. After I left it for an hour or so I tried to open it and it opened with hardly any resistance. One down, five more to go.

I'm also in need of new windshield wiper arms. Anyone recognize these?
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Old 04-06-2014, 08:01 PM   #12
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...I'm also in need of new windshield wiper arms. Anyone recognize these?
Google Imtra pantograph arm.
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Old 04-06-2014, 08:15 PM   #13
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Greetings,
Mr. b. "...sprayed some winded...". OK, miss-key or new product?
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Old 04-06-2014, 08:35 PM   #14
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Greetings,
Mr. b. "...sprayed some winded...". OK, miss-key or new product?
oops
. sorry. windex.
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Old 04-06-2014, 08:37 PM   #15
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Google Imtra pantograph arm.
Thanks Larry,
I did check there. They are definitely not the same arms. And the pictures aren't big enough to tell me that they will work with the current motors.
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Old 04-07-2014, 08:48 AM   #16
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Thanks Larry,
I did check there. They are definitely not the same arms. And the pictures aren't big enough to tell me that they will work with the current motors.
Try Googling Roca Industry or AFI. Both make pantograph arm wipers. The Roca's are made in Sweden ($$$).
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Old 04-07-2014, 12:44 PM   #17
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Many NTs came from the factory with AM Equipment wipers. I replaced our wiper arms last year and the company was a great resouce. Windshield Wiper Blades and Systems | DC Electric Motors | Wiper Motor Assembly | AM Equipment

BTW, while this is an amazing site, you will probably do better with very specific questions through SENTOA (search archives first, then reach out to the group if you still need an answer). The factory has also been excellent in helping me determine sources and suppliers for factory installed equipment.
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Old 04-07-2014, 01:49 PM   #18
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BTW, while this is an amazing site, you will probably do better with very specific questions through SENTOA (search archives first, then reach out to the group if you still need an answer). The factory has also been excellent in helping me determine sources and suppliers for factory installed equipment.
Ditto. NT and their dealers are active participants in SENTOA. NT will answer the phone when you call and will likely have the specific build file for your boat.
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Old 04-07-2014, 03:40 PM   #19
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Most likely just salt in the top/bottom grooves. Liberal use of fresh water to dissolve salt while "wiggling" windows back and forth. Do not just push the window in one direction. Then spray the top and bottom runner grooves with DuPont Teflon lubricant spray (Home Depot: about $8). Again work them back and forth a few times. Worked for me!!!
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Old 05-07-2014, 11:45 AM   #20
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I used an oyster knife to open mine. Wet the window down then insert the blade and run it back and forth in the channel on both sides of the window. Worked like a charm.
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