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Old 04-13-2015, 11:59 AM   #41
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Hi, so I did a search on FL120 flush and it brought me to this thread. Is there a procedure for how to do this? I'd like to do mine before opening day.
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Old 04-13-2015, 02:23 PM   #42
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It seems from memory that Daddyo had this problem recently. Transmission cooler failed and caused the trany to have to be rebuilt. They are too cheap to not replace once in a while. I bet you could buy ten of them for the price of rebuilding a transmission.
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Old 04-13-2015, 03:26 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by dhmeissner View Post
Hi, so I did a search on FL120 flush and it brought me to this thread. Is there a procedure for how to do this? I'd like to do mine before opening day.
Get a 5 gallon bucket, a bilge pump or submersible A/C pump, some TRAC Barnacle Buster (or other mild acid) and get 2 hoses. One that fits on the outlet of the pump in the bucket and then connects up to the first fitting just down stream of your raw water pump. The second hose connects to the last vooler inline. Which in the case of a Lehman should be the transmission cooler. From there the hose returns to the bucket.

Close the seacock to your raw water pump and hook the hoses up. Fill the bucket with the flushing fluid and let it circulate for at least a couple of hours or more if you're using Barnacle Buster.

After that stop the pump and drain the fluid back into the bucket then reconnect your raw water hoses and fire the engine up to check for leaks at the hoses you disconnected.
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Old 04-14-2015, 03:51 AM   #44
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if you go to a local supermarket and buy some 8 or 10% strength vinegar, pass it slowly through your cooler until it clean, cheap and effective, job done.
Great for cleaning toilet pipes too !
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Old 02-22-2016, 04:52 PM   #45
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As long as they run - don't tinker.

(I'm nocking on wood, never changed them on my boats, up to 40 years of service)


best regards / med venlig hilsen
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Knocking on wood isn't good enough, sometimes:
During my seasonal maintenance work I checked our coolers for possible leaks. Fotos taken with the camera looking bottom up identified some corrosion issues on starboard oil cooler and an incipient corrosion at the heat exchanger on the same engine. Don't know how long the oil cooler looks like that, it is the starboard engine so normally no chance to get a glance at the bottom of the cooler ...
As long as they run - don't tinker. For the time being engine is still running.
Do you have any idea about rest of lifetime?
While the oil cooler looks for me to be at a later stadium the heat exchanger seems to be just at the beginning of corrosion development
And: any ideas for repair or should I just go for replacement?

Or am I wrong and it isn't a corrosion issue?

I would appreciate your ideas!

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best regards / med venlig hilsen
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Old 02-22-2016, 09:52 PM   #46
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Looks exactly like a zinc fitting on top in your top picture, but I don't see any wrench marks on it!
I pulled my T coolers and found lots of rubber bits, but as the zincs had been properly maintained, no electrolysis. A little acid cleaned the scale out, so good as new. This after 20 yrs and 5000 engine hours. Clean your up and you may find they have lots of life left in them.
Do the zincs.
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Old 02-22-2016, 10:58 PM   #47
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I checked the FL operators manual for zincs. It seems that there isn't a zinc, neither at the oil cooler nor at the transmission oil cooler. Only the main heat exchanger has got a zinc which I check once a year.
I identified the screw on the picture as a drain plug (ref. 3 in the drawing). Might be I'm wrong, will check next weekend. Do you know zincs for 1/8 NPT?
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Old 02-23-2016, 04:41 AM   #48
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Greetings,
Mr. wk. The first picture does show corrosion BUT you should remove the cooler and have a radiator shop (I have no idea what the equivalent is in Europe) perform a pressure test to determine IF it is from a leak in the jacket or simply external corrosion due to a poor paint job and exposure to a salt atmosphere. Manufacturers do NOT use a premium paint to coat their coolers. Probably the cheapest spray can paint available.

Oil and transmission coolers are considered maintenance items which should be changed on a regular (every X years?) basis. They are not terribly expensive and changing to cupro-nickel coolers should give you many years of worry free use. Keep the originals as spares after cleaning in the manner suggested by Mr. k.

I have seen oil and transmission coolers with and without zincs and I agree with you, pic#1 depicts a drain rather than a zinc holder.

My opinion only.
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Old 02-23-2016, 07:18 AM   #49
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The tiny fitting is a drain plug.


As for length of service...roll the dice. There are cupronickel ones and more common brass ones....I have heard the brass are on about a 5 year changeout schedule for heavy use...the cupronickel are for either life or till you can't stand it any more.


I had a brass one have the end cap fall off last year on a 454 gasser motor...the solder joint failed. Looked like a manufacturers defect rather than corrosion. But that failure was right at the towing companies 5 year changeout schedule so who knows.
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Old 02-23-2016, 11:56 AM   #50
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Thank you Gentlemen


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