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Old 05-15-2018, 03:48 PM   #1
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Floors

My CT has typical teak and holly wood floors. They are nice and in ok shape considering 31 years of use and likely little care.
Not quite ready to do a full refinish yet other higher priority items still on the list. I was wondering if anyone has tried the hardwood refurb kits available at the big box stores.
Not expecting miracles but would like a little brightening up and shine.
Thanks

Tbtapper
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Old 05-15-2018, 06:12 PM   #2
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Start with 80 grit and sand off the old finish. Then sand out all the 80 grit marks with 120 grit. Go to 220 only if necessary. Now take a hand scraper and get all the corners you couldn’t get with the sander. Now use a one part urethane “Swedish” floor finish from home depo, satin finish looks the best for hiding small imperfections. It is very labor intensive and makes a lot a dust but not very technical.

Practice in a closet or under a seat if you are concerned about your ability.
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Old 05-15-2018, 07:07 PM   #3
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Have a look here.

I was happy with the result, however now half way through the season I already see new scratches. So once you have finished make sure to have some of those pads under all of the furniture and other stuff you move about.

Frankly, I am happy that we and our guests are using the boat without me rolling my eyes every time something is dragged across the floor. I am starting to be of the opinion that I would rather use the boat rather than it have look like new!

Fall & Winter Projects | AtAnchor.com
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Old 05-15-2018, 07:46 PM   #4
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Industrial grade carpet.
Quick, cheap and your using the boat that afternoon.
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Old 05-15-2018, 08:03 PM   #5
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Tbtapper,

I have been in the floor business for a long time. The attached photos are from a Defever I did last fall.

1. The damage, 2. My nephew Jared scraping the corners. The edger is also in that shot. 3. Finished.

I use the edger with 100# paper. After that 100# paper on the orbital sander to take out the arcs the edger leaves. Finish with a 120# screen on the buffer.

The edger is very fast but I would not recomend it unless you have some experience. It is very easy to dig the nose in if you are not used to it.

I will be doing a Monk 36 at the end of this week and will take pictures of the whole sequence.

Rob
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Old 05-15-2018, 08:08 PM   #6
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Vinyl timber look tiles 6 hours work and will last another 60 years
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Old 05-15-2018, 08:32 PM   #7
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Datenight,

What do you use to finish the floor with?
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Old 05-15-2018, 08:52 PM   #8
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Quote:
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Datenight,

What do you use to finish the floor with?
I use Lenmar urethane by Benjamin Moore. It is the same finish I use on residential floor. The sequence for a boat sole is one coat of sealer then as many coats as it takes to fill the grain (or the customer will pay for), at least 4, usually 5-6 coats of urethane.

Lenmar may not be easy to find, I get it from my supplier but any Benjamin Moore dealer should be able to help you. It flows beautifully and dries relativly fast.

Rob
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Old 05-15-2018, 10:10 PM   #9
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Great info. How will it hold up to a black labs nails?
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Old 05-16-2018, 05:28 AM   #10
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"I am starting to be of the opinion that I would rather use the boat rather than it have look like new!"

Great concept,

Remember gym or bar varnish is a slight no skid , even when wet.
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Old 05-16-2018, 06:29 AM   #11
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Great info. How will it hold up to a black labs nails?
Dog nails are tough. Best bet is to keep them trimmed and a runner in the traffic areas. Over time nail marks will show up.

A harder finish like Moisture Cure or Bona Traffic HD would be better. Moisture Cure is nasty to work with and may not be available to the consumer anymore. Bona Traffic is very expensive and can be tricky to apply. It requires a proprietary sealer to prevent edge bonding of individual boards.

When all is said and done use the Lenmar or urethane of choice. It will hold up well and is easy to apply. Also easy to recoat when you get the inevatible scratches or nail marks.

Rob
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Old 05-16-2018, 09:24 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Simi 60 View Post
Industrial grade carpet.
Quick, cheap and your using the boat that afternoon.
Carpet squares and keep some spare. If you spill stuff or stain a few, you can replace the squares without doing the whole carpet.
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Old 05-16-2018, 10:45 AM   #13
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Thanks for the info Datenight. We are probably going to have to do the decks in the next year. They have a satin finish that is probably the original finish on them now and it is starting to look bad.
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Old 05-16-2018, 06:27 PM   #14
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I can also recommend Parks Pro Finisher Polyurethane which is available at Home Depot. This stuff is as tough as any and gives a great finish. I have used it at my house and boat. Available in gloss and semi gloss. I would suggest the semi.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ole...-202056460-_-N

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Old 05-16-2018, 07:47 PM   #15
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Remember gym or bar varnish is a slight no skid , even when wet.[/QUOTE]

We used to use Gym Finish all the time. I remember it in 5 gallon cans. For some reason we stopped using it in the mid 70's. It was about the same time we (Dad brother and me) started using a lot of Moisture Cure urethane.

Ken,

Parks is a good product I have used. The price is great as well!

Rob
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Old 05-16-2018, 08:25 PM   #16
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Every one loves the look of gloss finish on new floors but satin finish is easier to keep looking good.
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Old 05-17-2018, 05:31 AM   #17
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"Every one loves the look of gloss finish on new floors but satin finish is easier to keep looking good."

Perhaps dockside , highly reflective finishes underway , if queasy, can create a vomitorium.

Satin paint and varnish on cabin sole , ceilings, joinery and overhead may help guests stay welcome.
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Old 05-17-2018, 10:21 AM   #18
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In redoing my floors at home, I had trouble finding oil based varathane in gallons. Apparently gallons offend the VOC limits, but Quarts don't. Go figure.
The quart size is sufficient for the boat floor, which, in 24 years, I have done twice, tha last at least 10 years ago. this past summer I was still getting compliments on how good it looks. Mine is Parquet, as in Datenight's photos, though Mine had never suffered the flood damage shown there.
Stay with oil based if you can get it. I tried Varathane water based several years ago and found that it would show water marks, (from condensation, which is impossible to avoid) and is difficult to remove.
Stick with oil based. Other brands are equally good, so long as you remember that as in other paint products, you get what you pay for, so don't choose the cheap over the expensive, as you will definitely get an inferior product.
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