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Old 06-19-2017, 08:31 PM   #1
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FL 120 leaking water pump - need advice

I just noticed that my water pump is leaking when the engine is running. It's approx a drip every second. Not super familiar with the insides of this component but I assume it must be a worn out seal?
Is it a critical issue or can I keep using the boat for a little while until I can fix it?
Indicated on the picture when the drip is coming from.
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Old 06-19-2017, 08:39 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Fotoman View Post
I just noticed that my water pump is leaking when the engine is running. It's approx a drip every second. Not super familiar with the insides of this component but I assume it must be a worn out seal?
Is it a critical issue or can I keep using the boat for a little while until I can fix it?
Indicated on the picture when the drip is coming from.
Attachment 65989
Sounds like the seal. Yes you can just keep using it while keeping an eye on it.

If you have room you can put a plastic tub under it to catch the drips.
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Old 06-19-2017, 09:00 PM   #3
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Sounds like the seal. Yes you can just keep using it while keeping an eye on it.

If you have room you can put a plastic tub under it to catch the drips.
Pretty risky IMHO. A drip a second is not slow. I've seen them go from a drip to pour in less than a week. You never know.

RW pumps are normal wear points and one should be ready to change out when they start weeping. And, have a spare onboard ready to go at the first sign of a leak.
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Old 06-19-2017, 09:12 PM   #4
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Greetings,
Mr. F. IF you will eventually replace rather than repair the current pump, I would suggest buying the upgraded pump available from American Diesel. I think there's a thread somewhere describing the advantages and differences of the new vs the old style pumps...
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Old 06-19-2017, 10:55 PM   #5
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I just did the same to my 120 last year. Raw water pump was starting to drip and was the old style. Cost a few bucks but I got a complete new unit including gear, upgraded it to a new style which is more robust and easier to service. I actually got mine from Fredwarner1.net for about $550, complete unit. I've bought oil coolers, heat exchangers, and starters from him as well. Online ordering is easier and faster then American Diesel.

Ford Lehman 120 & 80 Raw Water Pump 2C45 D-365 Marine Diesel Engine 2715E 2712E
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Old 06-20-2017, 12:12 AM   #6
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Pretty risky IMHO. A drip a second is not slow. I've seen them go from a drip to pour in less than a week. You never know.

RW pumps are normal wear points and one should be ready to change out when they start weeping. And, have a spare onboard ready to go at the first sign of a leak.
And that's why I said to keep an eye on it.

I can't recall ever seeing a leaking pump shaft seal go from dripping to flooding over night.

If he wants to use the boat for a few more hours while say waiting in a replacement pump, I don't think it would be a big deal. Especially if it's only leaking while underway.

If it does start leaking faster than you're comfortable with, just park it and close the seacock till you install the new or rebuild the old pump.

But in the end you just have to do what you're comfortable with.
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Old 06-20-2017, 03:01 AM   #7
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Just redid ours.

It went from working fine with no signs of problems to failed bearing and wobbling pulley 22 hours into a 24 hour run.
Thankfully it held together to get us around a headland and into a secure anchorage late in the evening.

My advice, get it sorted now if in an easy location to get repairs.
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Old 06-20-2017, 05:46 AM   #8
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Thaaks for the input! Spending $500 on a new pump is not an option right now. So what is the likely issue with my actual pump and how do I fix it? Is it something I can do myself?
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Old 06-20-2017, 06:53 AM   #9
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Depends on your skills. Tom B. gave this link in another discussion:

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/raw_water_pump

For me it was clearly beyond my scope. Complete rebuild incl. parts and getting the pump in and out was around 200 by a mechanics here in Europe.
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Old 06-20-2017, 08:19 AM   #10
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Thaaks for the input! Spending $500 on a new pump is not an option right now. So what is the likely issue with my actual pump and how do I fix it? Is it something I can do myself?
Do I see a paper towel wrapped around a different leak in your picture?

On this past Spring's to-do list was a rebuild of my two non leaking 14 year old 2400 hour Jabsco raw water pumps. The rebuild parts alone were about 60% the cost of a new pump. I elected to go new.

My point - if you can't afford a new pump, you can't afford the cost of a rebuild.
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Old 06-20-2017, 09:40 AM   #11
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I've never had good luck rebuilding water pumps my self. They sometimes leak after a rebuild or start to leak within a few 100 hours.

For rebuilding you'll need a press plus all the parts.

If the shaft is at all pitted/worn the only option maybe a new or rebuilt pump.
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Old 06-20-2017, 11:37 AM   #12
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Just a quick tip. These pumps often come in an upside down or backwards (for lack of better terms) configuration. Be sure to turn the pump 180 degrees such that it is sucking raw water rather than blowing bubbles thru the raw water intake. I speak from experience.
I also got my pump from Fredwarner. Highly reccommend.
Good luck.
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Old 06-20-2017, 11:46 AM   #13
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I considered a rebuild for mine when I ended up getting the new one from FredWarner, but I believe some parts such as the shaft are no longer available. With that said, a full rebuild isn't doable. One could do the seals and bearings but without a shaft it's liable to leak again..
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Old 06-20-2017, 12:11 PM   #14
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Do I see a paper towel wrapped around a different leak in your picture?
Good catch but no. It's a rag I put there to catch overspills when I change the injection pump oil.
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Old 06-20-2017, 12:25 PM   #15
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What's the model number/name of the pump that I have?
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Old 06-20-2017, 03:06 PM   #16
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Complete rebuild incl. parts and getting the pump in and out was around 200 by a mechanics here in Europe.
Lucky you.
Complete rebuild in Australia cost me $750 and I did the remove and refit.
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Old 06-20-2017, 03:08 PM   #17
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What's the model number/name of the pump that I have?
You tell us.
We can't see it.
I'm sure there'll be identifying marks or numbers on it.
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Old 06-21-2017, 08:36 AM   #18
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Finally was able to reach Brian at AD yesterday (the phone is always busy when I call for some reason). My pump is the Lehman 2C45 pump (Jabsco 5850-0001). Turns out there are two options: a rebuild kit that cost $60 that will work only if the shaft or gears are not damaged or a new model of pump that costs $500 (as other have pointed out earlier). So I will take the pump apart and inspect it. Hopefully I can get away with the rebuild kit for this season. ;-)
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Old 06-21-2017, 12:01 PM   #19
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Why not go electric? Engine running, pump running. Engine stops, pump stops. I would also run the oil and transmission coolers with coolant not raw water and I would probably cut off the shaft hose too. You do need raw water for your exhaust. At trawler speeds you are probably only using half the horsepower so not a huge heat issue. That's what I would do, the engine is stone age and better for it but the ancilliaries can be modernized. Don't forget to clean the coolers if you go for coolant cooling.

Tons of these on the web: https://www.ms-motorservice.com/en/p...coolant-pumps/
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Old 06-21-2017, 12:08 PM   #20
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Thats an interesting idea, I'm intrigued and like the concept. I just realced both the oil and trans cooler in the last year, it'd be a good time to swap them over to the fresh water side...

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Why not go electric? Engine running, pump running. Engine stops, pump stops. I would also run the oil and transmission coolers with coolant not raw water and I would probably cut off the shaft hose too. You do need raw water for your exhaust. At trawler speeds you are probably only using half the horsepower so not a huge heat issue. That's what I would do, the engine is stone age and better for it but the ancilliaries can be modernized. Don't forget to clean the coolers if you go for coolant cooling.

Tons of these on the web: https://www.ms-motorservice.com/en/p...coolant-pumps/
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