Fire Extinguishers

[Jonza]

Also, a Fireblanket in its holder/bag mounted VERY near the stove for whatever cathes fire there, especially oil/grease - Cheap, easy to use, safe.

 

[Capt.Bill11]

Also, a Fireblanket in its holder/bag mounted VERY near the stove for whatever cathes fire there, especially oil/grease - Cheap, easy to use, safe.

As are in easy reach containers of salt and/or baking soda.

 

[stubones99]

Most of the newest human friendly fire extinguishing systems use FM200 or something similar. It has enough air for human beings but not enough to oxygen for the fire. Instead of using CO2, FM200 leaves no residue and will put out a fire without killing people in the process.

Stu

 

[stubones99]

Also, for flammable metals (aluminum, etc.) Class D extinguishers are recommended.

That is the only way to stop them from burning since many metals will continue to burn underwater.

 

[HopCar]

Stubones has a point. When I first got in the business, halon hadn't been invented. It was common to have CO2 flooding systems in engine rooms. Every so often one would go off with someone in the engine room and kill them.

Halon was a big safety improvement. If the system was sized correctly for the engine room, it would put out the fire and not kill you. That's why it's important to not go oversize on your automatic flooding system.

 

[Phyrcooler]

Touch of reality

Folks... I've spent more than 30 years fighting fires. Most of this discussion is academic. And while I too realize that a foam PW might make a nice smothering blanket on a puddle of burning diesel, if you have a puddle of diesel in your bilge burning... you are already in some serious sh!t my friends. Dry chems are light, fast, effective and pretty good at preventing a flashback. Worrying about the clean-up of the powder is overblown and really the least of your worries. Remember you don't have to empty the extinguisher. A short blast may be all it takes. Conversely, having that firepower in your hands can make the difference between a small problem and a disaster.

Your goal is to stop it NOW. No pussyfooting around with alternative methods. No wet blankets. No running for a bucket to scoop water with. Every second that fire burns, it can expand. The hotter it gets the more damage your wiring, components and hull takes. Short circuits occur during a fire and are transmitted to other systems. Honestly, if you have an well involved engine room, the nightmare of a non-totaled, boat could be worse than it burning to the water line.

The little Coast Guard approved BC Extinquishers are OK. Personally, I'd rather have a commercial quality 3A40BC (in addition to the cute little white "marine" ones). You may have one shot at saving your baby. Why scrimp or mess around?

 

[obthomas]

I have 50 years of firefighting. I wouldn't hesitate using waterspray if available.

 

[RNL]

"I'm in your boat"! My very first trip to Alaska in 1991, the one that made me obsessed to have my own boat there was flavored by an engine room fire, in the dark of early morning, aboard a 42' Monk trawler while on a fishing trip. We were a couple miles offshore out of Whale Bay in the dark and the alarm and smoke every where was very disorienting. As hoped, the automatic extinguisher worked and the fire was out but the electricals were out. A good skipper got us all through it and back safely and I was too "naive" at that time to realize the danger we were potentially in because the system worked as it should. Years later, when I found my 42' and took her up there I bought the biggest FireBoy extinguisher for the ER and have several more hand helds throughout the boat and have them maintained/checked yearly. It was only after time had passed that I realized the magnitude and potential of that event and it has stayed with me ever since. Yes, his ER had to be cleaned up but that boat is still afloat in Sitka and I say just get what is MORE THAN adequate to do the job and maintain it. There may not be a second chance.

 

[Phyrcooler]

I have 50 years of firefighting. I wouldn't hesitate using waterspray if available.

Nor would I, if it were immediately available. But than I know the strengths and more importantly the weaknesses of same. Remember too, we're talking extinguishers, not hose streams chief. 95% of boaters have probably never fought a fire in their life. For the uninitiated, a dry Chem is the easiest and arguably most effective extinguisher. That said, my point is that folks should not suddenly feel that they need to run out and find some alternative method of firefighting because they now feel that the residual powder is worse than the fire. What is important is knocking it down. NOW!

 

[Portage_Bay]

I think training and the experience training brings is invaluable. I don't know where recreational boaters can get good training, but I highly recommend looking into it. You will be amazed at how fast your skill improves in a very short time. In your first attempt you will hardly put out a small fire before the extinguisher, a small portable unit, is expended. A few more tries and some pointers from the instructor and you will be amazed at how much fire you can put out!

You will also learn as you progress through more advanced techniques and complex situations that the first defense is no fire at all. Be careful where you stow flammable and volatile materials. I once saw a cardboard box with paint spray cans and solvents stacked on top of a pump motor.

And you will learn it isn't like the movies. Once the fire gets going you can't see and you can't breathe.

Many recreational boats are not well built in terms of containing a fire and not providing fuel for the fire. As an example carpeted engine rooms are comfy and quiet. But....

Maintain your systems. Zero tolerance for oil / fuel / propane leaks. Fix chafed wires now. Keep a close eye on your wet exhaust system.

As many have said in this thread do more than the minimum. Look at each space on your boat and imagine a fire. Ask yourself how would you get out if the usual way is blocked? How would you reach a fire extinguisher if you are stuck where you are standing? If you are honest in your assessment you will wind up buying more than the minimum number of portables.

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

I have an automatic firebox in the ER. Last year hand to replace all my hand held ones as they were all recalled. Bought new "marine" extinguishers at Walmart.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
10lb. CO2 mounted just outside the ER door and the usual USCG compliment.

 

[Soulshine]

Don't know if this was already stated, but an easy way to remember the different types of extinguishers is:

A - Ash. This type is for burnables such as wood, paper, trash, etc.

B - Boiling. For burnable liquids such as fuels, oils, paints, plastics.

C - Current. Fires involving "live" electrical type items.

 

[tallswede]

Foam works great on burning liquids that are on the surface of the floor or water however if the liquid is sloshing around or if there are very uneven surfaces it's not so good. Breaks in the foam coverage will alow the fire to break out again. Cut the fuel/current, cut the oxygen or cool the heat and keep a cool head. It's hard to beat water if there is no electrical current.

Kevin

 

[psneeld]

Funny, I have a lot of experience with small boat fires...foam seems to be the only thing that ultimately puts the worst of them out.


The last one pumped water on it with a big trash pump and fire nozzle for almost an hour before the fire department showed up and I had to send them back for foam. A second team with a fog nozzle and maybe I could have done better. Finally, with the foam, it took seconds to put the fire out what an hour with water couldn't.


Foam can get places and seal them off where other agents just don't seem to do the trick.


Granted...probably the average boat owner won't be aboard for some fires...but a bilge full of foam does wonders. It will flow under and into places one would be pulling floor boards up to get to...if they could.

Most of the boats, the foam ends up being at least several feet think in the hull...always seems to do a pretty good job of smothering everything. One break in it and reflashes are common until a lot of areas cool down and ignition sources stopped.


I agree that dry chem is the most practical...but like anything...best tool for the job.


Every boat and every fire can be a bit different, so different extringuishers can have their place. Exeperience does help and as pointed out earlier...most boaters have never fought a real boat fire.

 

[Jay N]

As others have posted, foam in the bilge to put out a fuel fire is the best possible solution. But while a dry chem doesn't work as well there, it works very well for other fire types/locations.