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02-29-2016, 08:55 PM
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#1
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Member
City: Vero Beach
Vessel Name: Etoiles
Vessel Model: GB36
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 6
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Fibreglassing decks on GB36
I am going to remove the teak decks on my 1989 GB36 Classic. I plan on drilling out the screw holes and use a penetrating epoxy then fill holes with West and filler. Do I need to grind off all gel coat and layup cloth and resin? The deck truly isn't strong enough without it? I would like to hear from others about their experiences. I spoke to a fellow with an 1988 and he just filled, faired and painted. ( he also had some kind of print pattern in the gel coat, very hard to get the bedding compound out if the pattern according to him)
Thanks for your comments
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02-29-2016, 09:07 PM
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#2
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Enigma
City: Slicker?
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 16,565
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Greetings,
Welcome aboard. Depending on how wet your deck coring is or isn't your either going to be doing a fairly easy or a real PIA job. How badly are your decks leaking now?
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RTF
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02-29-2016, 09:12 PM
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#3
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Guru
City: Ft Pierce
Vessel Name: Sold
Vessel Model: Was an Albin/PSN 40
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 28,147
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None of my deck was soft, even though there were wet areas.
I just pulled the teak, sanded down to good gel coat.....some areas were all the way through but mostly to get weathered and contaminated surface layers off.
Then I thought about the holes but decided too much work and they were small. So just put down 3 layers of 6oz cloth and painted. Still good after 5 years, still experimenting with nonskid paint but the easiest so far has been Interlux interdeck.
On flybridge where soft spots were rampant...I did drill random holes and allow unthickened resin to keep running in till it stopped. All I wanted it to do was hold the top layer of glass in place from fkexing..didn't care what it dId to the core plywood..
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02-29-2016, 09:39 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
City: Qualicum Beach, British Columbia
Vessel Name: Change of Heart
Vessel Model: Grand Banks 42
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 236
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I'm just about to start removing my teak decks off our 1973 GB 42. I did the flybridge deck a couple of years ago. After removing all the screws I double chamfered all the holes with a 45 degree counter-sinker and then a 30 degree. After that a fill of thickened epoxy followed by a second coat of epoxy and micro-balloons to fair it all out.
A pretty straightforward job but pretty tough on the knees!
I'll be applying some KiwiGrip nonskid come spring.
__________________
Everything on your boat is broken...you just don't know about it yet.
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02-29-2016, 09:50 PM
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#5
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Guru
City: Sydney
Vessel Name: Sojourn
Vessel Model: Integrity 386
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 13,329
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When I had mine done, teak and gunk came off, screw holes filled, surface faired, 2 layers of glass mat fwd where we left it painted, one layer aft and side decks where new teak went down, glued not screwed. I watched it being done, every day, for weeks.Laying glued teak is slow as.
Your risk is the state of the wood in the teak sandwiched top and bottom by fiberglass, if that`s soft and rotten you`ve a much bigger job. I was lucky, the surprise material in the sandwich was foam. Except for 2 small squares of wood, wet, black, soft, replaced with foam.
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BruceK
2005 Integrity 386 "Sojourn"
Sydney Australia
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02-29-2016, 09:56 PM
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#6
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Master and Commander
City: Vallejo CA
Vessel Name: Carquinez Coot
Vessel Model: penultimate Seahorse Marine Coot hull #6
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,559
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You guys keep on confirming the correctness of my decision to cancel the order for teak decks. Steel decks seem lots easier to maintain. There are no screw holes.
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Kar-KEEN-ez Koot
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02-29-2016, 10:02 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
City: Brisbane
Vessel Name: Malagari
Vessel Model: Island Gypsy 36 Europa
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceK
When I had mine done, teak and gunk came off, screw holes filled, surface faired, 2 layers of glass mat fwd where we left it painted, one layer aft and side decks where new teak went down, glued not screwed. I watched it being done, every day, for weeks.Laying glued teak is slow as.
Your risk is the state of the wood in the teak sandwiched top and bottom by fiberglass, if that`s soft and rotten you`ve a much bigger job. I was lucky, the surprise material in the sandwich was foam. Except for 2 small squares of wood, wet, black, soft, replaced with foam.
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Bruce, are you saying that if the core is foam and it is damp - it doesn`t have to be replaced? (yahoo if you are!!!) - I assume over time it will dry if any leaks are sealed? I have a leak coming through the flybridge - the teak is knackered - so for me it could be - old teak off, grind down to good glass, fill holes, cover with a couple of layers of mat then paint (sounds simple doesn`t it)
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George
Brisbane
IG 36 Europa
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02-29-2016, 10:05 PM
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#8
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Master and Commander
City: Vallejo CA
Vessel Name: Carquinez Coot
Vessel Model: penultimate Seahorse Marine Coot hull #6
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,559
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Sealed, wet decks? Wouldn't they rot rather than dry?
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Kar-KEEN-ez Koot
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02-29-2016, 11:02 PM
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#9
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Guru
City: Sydney
Vessel Name: Sojourn
Vessel Model: Integrity 386
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 13,329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markpierce
You guys keep on confirming the correctness of my decision to cancel the order for teak decks. Steel decks seem lots easier to maintain. There are no screw holes.
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By the time the Coot was built glue had long replaced screws. Most people with teak decks don`t replace teak with teak due to expense.
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BruceK
2005 Integrity 386 "Sojourn"
Sydney Australia
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02-29-2016, 11:17 PM
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#10
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Master and Commander
City: Vallejo CA
Vessel Name: Carquinez Coot
Vessel Model: penultimate Seahorse Marine Coot hull #6
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,559
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceK
By the time the Coot was built glue had long replaced screws. Most people with teak decks don`t replace teak with teak due to expense.
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Yes, heck with screws, but doesn't gluing a teak facade create its own problems, including limited access to its potentially corroding base?
__________________
Kar-KEEN-ez Koot
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02-29-2016, 11:19 PM
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#11
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Guru
City: Sydney
Vessel Name: Sojourn
Vessel Model: Integrity 386
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 13,329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brisyboy
Bruce, are you saying that if the core is foam and it is damp - it doesn`t have to be replaced? (yahoo if you are!!!) - I assume over time it will dry if any leaks are sealed? I have a leak coming through the flybridge - the teak is knackered - so for me it could be - old teak off, grind down to good glass, fill holes, cover with a couple of layers of mat then paint (sounds simple doesn`t it)
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I hope it`s that simple,but.... The painted bow part took about 2 weeks, the teak way longer.
If the foam core is sodden I`d say it needed replacing. I think there is foam core, and closed cell foam core, the latter may not get wet, mine was not. Nobody knew of foam core decks on an IG, but mine sure looked original.
On the FB, maybe only the uncovered back half of the teak has deteriorated. My main PO replaced it with f/g when the FB started to rot under it, the generous soul he was. The covered front half is still in good original condition.
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BruceK
2005 Integrity 386 "Sojourn"
Sydney Australia
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02-29-2016, 11:25 PM
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#12
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Guru
City: Sydney
Vessel Name: Sojourn
Vessel Model: Integrity 386
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 13,329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markpierce
Yes, heck with screws, but doesn't gluing a teak facade create its own problems, including limited access to its potentially corroding base?
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If the adhesion fails that must be possible. I guess it gets hotter here, making some insulation, like teak or its substitutes, more desirable. On a hot day I can`t walk without shoes on the painted foredeck, but I could on the old teak.
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BruceK
2005 Integrity 386 "Sojourn"
Sydney Australia
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03-01-2016, 06:17 AM
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#13
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Guru
City: Ft Pierce
Vessel Name: Sold
Vessel Model: Was an Albin/PSN 40
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 28,147
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Not sure there is a reason to fill individual holes.
I feel it is a waste of time because they are so small, epoxy doesn't drain away from the cloth due to its viscosity.
With several layers of glass on top of the decks, they holes become irrelevant in my mind as the new surface is level and waterproof without filling them.
If there are any larger holes or divits, then sure, but the screw holding my deck were very small.
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03-01-2016, 10:25 AM
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#14
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Veteran Member
City: Puerto Escondido, Baja California Sur, Mexico
Vessel Name: Pacific
Vessel Model: DeFever 38
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 25
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I replaced the teak deck on my flybridge several years ago. Luckily, there was no wet core. It was quite a job but the results were well worth the effort. I debated whether to fill the screw holes, but did so because I added only 1 layer of glass and did not want any possible dimpling of the finished surface. Relative to the whole job, filling the holes was a small part. Pictures are here: https://cruisingonpacific.shutterfly.com.
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03-01-2016, 01:56 PM
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#15
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 48
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When I stripped the teak from my deck several years ago I chose to put down fresh glass and then paint. Didn't ever want to deal with teak again. On the yard manager's advice stayed with a very light overall deck color and only minimally darker contrasting nonskid areas (using Awlgrip products). Was absolutely amazing how much cooler the deck was under foot and how much it dropped the interior boat temperature. This was a boat used in FL and the Bahamas, much more comfortable.
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03-01-2016, 04:08 PM
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#16
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Guru
City: Philadelphia, PA
Vessel Name: Revel
Vessel Model: 1984 Fu Hwa 39
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,024
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I'm reading this with great interest. Our new-to-us '84 Fu Hwa has Teak decks, but I do not recall whether it's screwed and bunged. I'm rebuilding the lazarette hatch which was Teak glued down to 3/8" scraps of wood and that glued to 3/8" of fir plywood which was visible when the hatch was open. There were steel staples applied for clamping. There were no screws. The glue was polyester resin.
Since the 32-year-old Teak is in good shape and matches the rest of the boat, I demolished the rotted and ill-repaired plywood while retaining the Teak glued together with the seam sealant.
Comments above, more to the point of the discussion, are correct. I'll add that I filled holes in the fiberglass deck of the sailboat by cleaning 'em out with an ordinary countersink. Clean, visible surface, and lots of surface area. I used 'filled' West System epoxy for the filler. I tried the white pigment for the West, but it's just not worth it. I dabbed a little Brightside Polyurethane to protect the epoxy.
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05-08-2016, 07:57 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
City: San Pedro, CA
Vessel Name: Boatless
Vessel Model: Dreamer
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 159
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Baja... appreciate that you captured the process of removing teak decking with the great pictures... a picture is worth a thousand words - still true.
Carl
Quote:
Originally Posted by BajaTrawler
I replaced the teak deck on my flybridge several years ago. Luckily, there was no wet core. It was quite a job but the results were well worth the effort. I debated whether to fill the screw holes, but did so because I added only 1 layer of glass and did not want any possible dimpling of the finished surface. Relative to the whole job, filling the holes was a small part. Pictures are here: https://cruisingonpacific.shutterfly.com.
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