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Old 08-11-2016, 08:29 PM   #21
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So many ways to approach the same problem. Gmarr, I would through bolt at every opportunity. How you approach the cosmetics is the issue. Maybe drill a bigger hole, fill with epoxy and drill and countersink the screws, get everything tight and fill the holes for the screwheads with gelcoat or whatever.
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Old 08-12-2016, 09:59 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by mike66 View Post
I have some blind holes in my flybridge that a rail stanchion was screwed into with ? wood screws. They were stripped, so I drilled the holes out to 1/2 inch and filled with thickened epoxy. At this point should I drill and tap for machine screws or go back to a wood type screw?
Thanks for any help.
It's always best to have the whole plan laid out before you start a project or repair. I think I would have not drilled the holes out to 1/2 inch and filled them with epoxy, I would have drilled them and tapped them for the next larger size machine screw. Just tapped the fiberglass.

Another option, still without epoxy, is threaded inserts.

In some cases, stainless steel toggle bolts might be a good option.
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Old 08-12-2016, 11:17 AM   #23
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I still like the SS TEE nut idea. They also come with those spikes, Surely epoxy would grab onto that and not let it spin if the bolt got stuck.
Shop The Hillman Group 3/8-in Stainless Steel Standard (SAE) 3-Prong Tee Nut at Lowes.com

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Old 08-12-2016, 11:49 AM   #24
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T nuts are intended to be installed from the back side of the hole. I don't think this is possible in the OP's situation.
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