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Old 02-19-2019, 11:18 AM   #21
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And just a few more pics of old yuck caulk that needs to be redone.
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Old 02-19-2019, 11:25 AM   #22
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Greetings,
Mr./Ms. S. Oh yuk! Given the "sheltered" location of the area that needs re-caulking, I'd be tempted to use a good non-silicon house caulk. Failing that, as others have said, 3M 4000.


Edit: Just saw your additional pictures. Yup, 3m 4000. Forget my suggestion of the house caulk...
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Old 02-19-2019, 11:34 AM   #23
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This is where the wet caulk is.
Gross. That's 3M 4000?
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Old 02-19-2019, 12:07 PM   #24
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I’ve had poor results with 3M 4000 UV. It doesn't hold up in the tropics for us. The caulk in the picture is less than 3 years old. A bad batch? I’ve Googled 3M 4000 and stayed off of venders web sites and I see there are others with similar results. I’m still looking for something better.
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Old 02-19-2019, 12:26 PM   #25
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Gross. That's 3M 4000?
We have no idea what it is. I just found it the other day when I started scraping the old caulk. We’ve owned this boat for almost a year now. So this was put on before we bought the boat.
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Old 02-19-2019, 12:30 PM   #26
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Some silicone products can't be easily painted over. If you run into that problem, the paint sold for covering stains usually works. Best if you sand first.
I know the marine products are expensive, but they were tested against the sun, wind and salt water to excel for a long time. Most house products aren't made with the ocean in mind and don't last as long. Even exterior products. The water based ones absorb moisture and are a magnet for mold.
There is one caulk line that is molded. It drives me nuts every time I see it...which is all the time because it’s in a very visible location. It’s not cracked, just ugly because of the mold.
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Old 02-19-2019, 01:15 PM   #27
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I used to use 3M 4000. It turned yellow in less than 2 years. I started using Sika 291. No yellowing yet and it has been over 2 years.
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Old 02-19-2019, 02:07 PM   #28
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One trick pros use on 5200, 4200, Sikaflex291 and the like is to paint it, in the case of my old Hatteras, my guy used Awlgrip that matched the hull. Worked great and cut down mildew and ingrained dirt (which causes mildew).
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Old 02-19-2019, 03:11 PM   #29
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The gooey stuff from underneath almost looks like putty or old white butyl its also what box store bathroom calk ends up looking like. Sikaflex 291 is what I would use once the old mess is cleaned up real well..
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Old 02-19-2019, 03:28 PM   #30
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I agree with Bruce.
I've used Sikaflex for years and never had any problems. I definitely wouldn't use any household sealers, they definitely work but, indefinitely.
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Old 02-19-2019, 07:25 PM   #31
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Looks like we will be looking into sikaflex!
Thanks everybody!
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Old 02-19-2019, 08:55 PM   #32
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+1 sikaflex
easy to work with. Use soapy water to smooth out.
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Old 02-19-2019, 09:12 PM   #33
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+1 sikaflex
easy to work with. Use soapy water to smooth out.
Plastic wrap film over a finger helps too. And mineral turpentine(we just say "turps")to clean up,have a rag or paper towel ready in advance. Also, leftover Sika keeps well in the freezer, but don`t delay getting it there.
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Old 02-19-2019, 10:11 PM   #34
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Lexel is mold resistant, can be applied to a wet surface, stays flexible, and is paintable. It requires mineral spirits to clean up though.

I would NEVER use any caulking product by GE. I've been let down too often, and heard the same from others.
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Old 02-20-2019, 07:28 AM   #35
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You know it was interesting that I agonized (OK, more like waffled) over Sikaflex and 3M back in 2015 and ended up going with 3M 4200. Based on the collective knowledge of the group I am going with Sikaflex when I begin my Spring project list. Thanks for the advice!


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Old 02-20-2019, 07:35 AM   #36
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What Sika do you guys use? Mostly I'm worried about UV and chemical exposure.
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Old 02-20-2019, 08:11 AM   #37
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So once I get all the old scraped out...what’s best to clean and prep the surface for new caulk?
Or maybe I should ask, are there any products I shouldn’t use? I think someone was telling my hubby to use acetone after just scrubbing it good with soap and water.
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Old 02-20-2019, 08:28 AM   #38
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Greetings,
Mr./Ms S. Yup, soap and water followed by acetone will work. What you want is a surface clean of grease, oil or soap residue. Another alternative is xylene (xylol) better de-greaser but it is much harder on the liver IMO.
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Old 02-20-2019, 08:16 PM   #39
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I have had very good results with TDS (Teak Decking Systems) caulk for this purpose. It is designed for caulking teak decks but I checked with the manufacturer that it is fine for this kind of general caulking as well. One other idea is to use black caulk instead of white - no yellowing or dirt. It sounds strange but actually looks good (IMHO) on our boat.
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Old 02-21-2019, 03:16 PM   #40
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I have begun using Life Caulk polysulfide and butyl tape.
Cures faster when wet, but will air cure as well.
I havent had it out in UV long enough to know if it stays white. It is available in black too. Heard good things about it a couple of years ago here on the forum.
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