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Old 12-10-2015, 06:59 PM   #1
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Engine hatch cover insulation

My Seabird Condor 29 has covers to access the engines that have falling down insulation. There are some metal squares, some of which are fastened to the fiberglass cover. Would like to pull covers and glue them back on with something. Maybe something for the metal squares and something else for the insulation itself. Any suggestions?
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Old 12-10-2015, 07:27 PM   #2
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Sounddown insulation will have everything you need. They used to be in Salem , Mass (may still be). Jamestown distributors and our own Parks (Hopcar) may carry it as well. Hopkins Carter in Miami.
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Old 12-10-2015, 11:29 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marvinjansen View Post
My Seabird Condor 29 has covers to access the engines that have falling down insulation. There are some metal squares, some of which are fastened to the fiberglass cover. Would like to pull covers and glue them back on with something. Maybe something for the metal squares and something else for the insulation itself. Any suggestions?
I'm seeing sound insulation battens about 54'x36" in marine stores for about $100US, with the metal layer over the foam backing. I am replacing mine, as they lose their fight with gravity. I tried to mickey mouse it with much taping, but sound is like water and you have to do a reasonably uniform job of it.
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Old 12-11-2015, 01:17 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by djones44 View Post
I'm seeing sound insulation battens about 54'x36" in marine stores for about $100US, with the metal layer over the foam backing...
Similar ones here are self adhesive "peel & stick", they adhere well. You can cut them to fit. Remove the old glue and foam remnants from the failed ones as much as possible. You can get tape to cover the joins of the panels, that helps with the noise.
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Old 12-13-2015, 06:56 AM   #5
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Hatch covers get slammed at times , asking glue to hold a 6G load is difficult.

Thin screening , chicken wire and a few mechanical fastenings is not elegant , but...
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Old 12-13-2015, 09:32 AM   #6
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For real insulation with a 1 or 2lb noise barrier adhesive plus mechanical fasteners are recommended. For foam, vinyl/foam and lead/foam insulation the recommended adhesive is solvent based contact cement.

For 1lb product 1 fastener for every 2 sq ft is adequate, for 2 lb product the spacing should be 1 per sq ft. A fender washer and a self taping screw work just fine. I use an icepick or awl to make the hole in the insulation and wrap the drill bit with masking tape so it doesn't "grab" the foam when I drill a pilot hole if necessary. I use tape on the screw for the same reason.


http://www.soundown.com/Section%203%...structions.pdf

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Old 12-14-2015, 12:39 AM   #7
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Forget the glue especially over the engine. After a time it WILL let go.
I set mine with mechanical fasteners about every 8".
I started out using the pins with the little holey base plates and the domed cover.
Expensive.
I reused what I could where I've removed the pins and then bought large size 1/4 hole fender washers and then a # 8 or #10 washer to catch the hole. I then used screws.
Cheaper, sturdier.
Just tighten that screw only untill it just starts to dimple the metallized surface layer.

Fit the hatches as snugly as you can without interfering with closure. My engine is under the salon floor. Covering the hatches made the greatest sound drop of any of the rest of the insulation. The close fit is needed also to seal any openings.

If I had the sheet alum. I might have made my own washers. I have a set of punches for making up to 2" washers. A hole saw would have worked also. Next time and that may not be too far away for the stuff over the engine.
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Old 12-14-2015, 03:59 AM   #8
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If you use contact adhesive in combination with mechanical fixings be sure to use heat resistant glue.!!

Cheers Chris D Liberty 2015
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Old 12-14-2015, 04:09 PM   #9
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Most of the failures attributed above to glue are actually from the open celled acoustic foam absorbing contaminants from the engine room environment like crankcase gas, exhaust leaks, hydrogen from batteries, etc. and then failing at the glue bond. In most cases the glue and a layer of foam are still adhered to the surface, the foam is what fails.
That is why manufacturers have facing on insulation, as a vapor barrier, and why they recommend taping all edges and seams.

And, acoustically the product will perform better when glued.

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