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Old 12-22-2012, 03:35 AM   #21
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Sunvale, a question, does your deck have a step up slightly forward from the port and starboard doors? Something like this.
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Old 12-22-2012, 09:23 AM   #22
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step up

It does, 2 small steps and right there is were my small leak originates. I will replace the screws with slightly larger metric screws and redo the caulking between the teak and new plugs. See what happens before ripping the teak up.
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Old 12-22-2012, 09:25 AM   #23
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Pittwater...
Could you send me a couple of pictures of your fly bridge covers. I'm going to replace all of my canvas and am looking for ideas
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Old 12-22-2012, 06:16 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunvale View Post
It does, 2 small steps and right there is were my small leak originates. I will replace the screws with slightly larger metric screws and redo the caulking between the teak and new plugs. See what happens before ripping the teak up.
The above quote responds to the pic in post 21. My deck has been redone in the same combination of non slip and teak.
The 2 worst areas of my deck are pictured,on both sides. Moisture affected the deck-house walls adjacent to the deck. Internal damage to the teak ply lining seen low down to stbd; to port leaks were evident on the side head wall at deck level. The moisture meter read high.
Just fwd of the step up, on both sides, teak sandwich had been used for the substrate instead of foam, presumably to take the load of where every foot would land. Those 2 teak sections, black, damp and soft, were replaced with foam. I believe those areas were conducting leaks to the boat interior.
Before embarking on the full deck reno I renewed all the plugs I could, caulked(in brown) over screws where there was insufficient depth for a plug, and recaulked suspect grooves. I wish you greater success.
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Old 12-23-2012, 10:26 AM   #25
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I have only a limited amount of teak on my boat. The forward section on the starboard side is my only concern. There I will replace the caulking and the plugs after I replace and caulk the screw holes. The boat is inside for the winter and that should dry everything out quite well. About April I will go to work on the teak.
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Old 12-23-2012, 06:06 PM   #26
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Is the leak from the top end of the step or from the lower side. I ask this because the deck will drain from the bow to at least to amidships on your boat & with water following gravity, if the leak is from the lower step, it is not coming from the forward section. However, if the leak is from the upper part of the step you really cannot rule out the leak originating from anywhere forward of that point, this has been pointed out by others in this post.

Where you see water exiting may not be where it entered, it may be the lowest point on your deck. Do not automatically assume that the stern of the boat is the lowest point for drainage just because that is where the scuppers are. I got a very nasty shock when slipping my boat and being caught in a storm, although the boat was level on the blocks the picture shows the true level of the boat. Note, in this picture the aft scuppers were still above the water level, so the mid ships of my boat is the lowest point as far as gravity is concerned, it is also where my fuel/water filler pipes are located, not really a good design point. In my case that resulted in some rusty fuel tanks.I assume you have checked the top of your tanks.

To give you an idea, on my boat which had water issues, the water had travelled a good 15 feet from the source of the problem, which in my case was a faulty seal around the foot winch at the bow, and I suspect it had being doing that for a considerable period, yours being a newer boat hopefully won't have that problem.

As others have also said, be very careful about trying to 'lift' the Teak for any reason, it is brittle and will splinter, the stuff they used to stick down the decks with will not let go easily.

In regard to my flybridge covers they were put on by the PO, and are not the most flattering part of the boat to be honest, but they are immensely useful as we do all our driving from the upper helm, and as we also live in a hot climate the shade and wind protection is excellent. I have this theory that those of us with aft cabin boats tend to use the flybridge more often because it is much easier to access than those with Europa/sedan style boats. I have no idea where your cruising grounds are, but if you are in a warm climate, 'clears' etc are well worthwhile IMHO.
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Old 12-23-2012, 08:43 PM   #27
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Andy, and Sunvale, my worst moisture entry areas were forward of, and at the bottom, of the step. In both areas I renewed the caulking adjacent to the cabin "walls", to no great effect. I concluded the moisture was traveling within the deck across to the cabin.
As well as looking for your deck low point, check the camber of your deck. Does it slope inwards or outwards, because that`s where the water will go. Mine slope inward.
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Old 12-23-2012, 09:56 PM   #28
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I have no teak at the front of my boat. The teak starts at the bottom of the step next to the cabin. The port window has some bad caulking around the window frame. A couple of the teak strips are suspect. Like I said, my leak is very minor and has not infiltrated any place other than right on top of the port fuel tank and than just a very small spot during a prolonged rain. Going to redo the plugs and screws and redo the teak caulking and see were that gets me. Not going to strip any teak, just reseal the stuff and see were that leads. Thanks for all the input. I would love to have some pictures of IG's with a bimini top that has a windshield and side curtains for ideas.
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Old 12-23-2012, 10:33 PM   #29
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=sunvale;"I would love to have some pictures of IG's with a bimini top that has a windshield and side curtains for ideas."

Best I could do.
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Old 12-23-2012, 10:56 PM   #30
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My sliders each have a mortise lock that, when open, has no protrusions whatsoever. One failed and was replaced over 10 years ago. The other is still working well. When I was searching for a replacement, I came across a catalogue from an outfit (name escapes me now) in Georgia, from whom I ordered the lock. It wasn't the same size or configuration, but I was able to fit it into a modified mortise and haven't had any problems with it.
Keep looking, as they do exist.
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Old 12-24-2012, 08:54 AM   #31
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Koliver, any chance for some pictures of the lock and or search you memory for names? Sounds just like the lock I'm looking for.
Andy, Thanks for the pictures, I like them and they give me some idea as to what I want to do. By the way, were do the stays for your mast fasten to. Mine anchor right in the middle of the fly bridge and are in the way all the time.
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Old 12-24-2012, 10:36 AM   #32
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This is the type of lockset that is on our 1985 PT Sedan. Seems there are available in the UK at many websites, Union 2401 5 Lever Clawbolt Sliding Door Lock Hope this helps.
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Old 12-24-2012, 10:55 AM   #33
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Merit Metal Sliding Door Lock


#1856A-RH or 1856A-LH
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Old 12-24-2012, 09:43 PM   #34
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Sunvale: The one Mike suggests looks identical to the originals on my boat. The trouble I had with one of them was rusting, so it wouldn't release. The replacement I found is all brass inside, so safe from any rust issues.

Sorry, I won't be back to take a picture for a while. I will watch this space, and when I get to my boat next, if you haven't found one, I'll get you a picture and maybe a source.
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Old 12-25-2012, 08:16 AM   #35
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Koliver, thanks for the info. A number of sources have been pictured on the site. After checking some of them out, I find that on the respective web sites it's difficult to determine size and mechanical properties of the various locks. Hate to spend couple hundred dollars on a lock that won't work. So I like to be sure what I'm getting.
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