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Old 07-08-2015, 07:40 PM   #1
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Deck Sealant w Reinforcement

I'm sealing 20 to 30 holes about 1/4" Dia on the inside deck of my 19' OB boat.
I'm going to use 5200 and hardware cloth (screen) for reinforcement. At first I was set on SS but don't know if I can get the edges to lay flat. I want them to be as flush as possible.

For similar events I've used thin aluminum plate and perhaps I shouldn't stray from past success. But again how could I cut the 3/4" (approx) cutouts w/o curving or warping the flat cutouts. Perhaps there's cutouts for some other purpose that I could buy ready to use. Any ideas?
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Old 07-08-2015, 07:44 PM   #2
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Pipe screens? Already precut and flat. Just an idea..
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Old 07-08-2015, 09:05 PM   #3
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Tuesday what's a pipe screen?
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Old 07-08-2015, 09:37 PM   #4
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For plumbing originally but pot smokers use them. Over time they have created a market for stainless ones.
Available in bulk for dirt cheap on the bidding site or most quickie marts across the country next to the blunt wraps.
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Old 07-08-2015, 10:05 PM   #5
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What's a blunt wrap?
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Old 07-08-2015, 10:13 PM   #6
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Blunt.. aka philly blunts. (Cheapie cigars)

People empty the tabacco out and fill with marajauna. So popular that companies just started selling the cigar wrappers. Essentially just bigger thicker rolling papers. Avail in all sorts of flavors.

Aka blunt wraps. Avail at any gas station nowdays.
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Old 07-08-2015, 11:22 PM   #7
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Learn something new every day. And I thought it was just about Trawlers
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Old 07-08-2015, 11:40 PM   #8
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I feel baited.. but yes. It takes all kinds, right.
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Old 07-09-2015, 02:11 AM   #9
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Being one of those old farts that smoke "Cheapie Cigars" now I understand the strange looks sometimes. And I thought it might be that I still have a bit of hair on my head. Who woulda thought!
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Old 07-09-2015, 11:15 PM   #10
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http://www.mcmaster.com/#stainless-steel-screens/=xzh7em


The above link is to McMaster Carr. Many sizes, and wire gauges and density. For you application some thing above 50 x 50 is probably appropriate. Less than that get pretty thick.
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Old 07-09-2015, 11:33 PM   #11
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Thanks CC and all,
I'm on to Willard projects for now. Getting a new (modern) DC selection switch tomorrow and I'm mak'in up an aluminum mounting plate.
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Old 07-11-2015, 12:10 AM   #12
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Eric- could I convince you to consider an alternative repair method??


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Old 07-11-2015, 04:05 AM   #13
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Eric-- Is this a deck that gets walked on? If so I'm not sure 5200 is the best solution. It's a strong adhesive but it remains flexible and is not what I would consider a wear surface.
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Old 07-11-2015, 09:46 AM   #14
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Steve and Marin,
OK I'm flexible .. at least I think I was 20 years ago.
The only reason I want to seal these holes is to keep water away from the plywood underneath. Enough rot has happened both port and stbd aft that I'm going to have to put some aluminum plate down so no one's foot will break through. It's an old boat that I just want to make 100% serviceable.
Yes Marin .. gonna walk on it.
Steve many have tried and I know the right way is to take up the plywood deck and replace it. But I'm certainly open. I'm usually for doing things the right way. And I know there's no rotten timbers below the deck/floor because there's no wood. It's a "Winner" brand boat. The hull bottom and floor gets it's strength from a FG insert shaped like a tapered egg carton. No wood to go south there. But I still haven't got Willy (my small Heavy Cruiser) ready for action so time forces me to do medic 1 on the old boat .... or just leave it sit. And it's done too much of that. I'm applying myself 100% to replacing the DC selector switch on Willy at this time. Gotta make another mounting plate ect ect. And I hope the cables are long enough. Ect.
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Old 07-11-2015, 09:51 AM   #15
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Why not use epoxy putty or fiber reinforced body filler aka Bondo... Sets in 15 min and easily sanded.

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Old 07-11-2015, 10:16 PM   #16
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Deck Sealant w Reinforcement

Eric, I was just wondering if you had ever worked with Marine Tex. I have been using it the last few months for filling old bolt holes, etc- and really like working with it.
Initial mixing is somewhat like mixing olive oil into crayons.... But after a couple of minutes it starts to smooth out and it's easy to spread. I take an existing hole, put a tapered stone bit in my drill- then use it to enlarge and taper the hole. Thinner on a rag to clean dust off. Apply, let harden overnight, then sand fair. What I'm using is white- as the boat is. I remember reading you could change the color if needed. Anyway- just a thought .

http://www.marinetex.com/marinetexepoxyputty.html

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Old 07-11-2015, 10:27 PM   #17
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Some of these holes have no "tube" or sidewalls. Nothing for any "goo" to adhere to. The fix needs to attach to the upper surface only .. as that's all there is.
Been a long time since I've used Marine Tex. I use JB Weld quite a bit it's so easy to mix and apply. But the 5200 has so much more flexibitity. Great adhesion too.
But I'm still working on my DC Selector Switch.
Thanks Steve and Don
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