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Old 04-27-2014, 08:40 AM   #1
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Deck Paint Suggestions?

It's getting time to repaint the decks on my fiberglass flying bridge, boat deck, and forward trunk cabin deck. I plan to do it myself with the roll and tip method. I'd appreciate suggestions on an economical and durable paint, and/or other possible deck coverings. Thanks!
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Old 04-27-2014, 08:44 AM   #2
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Interdeck by Interlux...non-skid is very fine but effective (doesn't hold dirt as bad)...very even coating..easy to touchup if you block off your deck into manageable sections.
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Old 04-27-2014, 08:51 AM   #3
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Do you mean short term economical or total cost of ownership economical. For the latter, hard to beat AwlGrip. You can roll and tip it, though spray is best, and their little glass beads mixed in are available in various sizes depending on how coarse a non-skid you want. The swim platform, flying bridge, boat deck and sun pad/trunk cabin top of my boat were all done with AwlGrip over the past 7 years. Starting with the FB/BD 6 years ago, which has held up to a ton of year around use. There are various tutorials on the web and in boat forums on how-to. There's a guy on the Hatteras Owner's Forum, Jim Rosenthal, who did his whole 36ft Hatt on his own last year, came out pretty nice.
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Old 04-27-2014, 09:11 AM   #4
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Old 04-27-2014, 09:32 AM   #5
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We did our decks 16 months ago and so far it's been wearing great and easy to clean. We used AwlGrip 73013 non-skid which is their course material.

We first taped off the non-skid area, sanded with a random orbital sander, then wiped with a solvent. We rolled on one coat of Awlgrip with a 6" varnish roller. Using a styrofoam cup, with tooth pick holes, in the bottom, we went over the painted areas with the 73013, then rolled on one more coat of Awlgrip. That's it and we never touched a brush. The decks had been painted before so other than filing a few divots, sanding was the only prep.

I did practice with the cup, tooth pick holes and non-skid on a prepped, non painted area first. It was fairly easy to get the right amount of non-skid down with a little practice.

The 73013 was $40 for a quart and the paint was $140. I can't kneel on the deck with out taking skin off but you can walk on it comfortably in bare feet. Two of us did the side decks and foredeck in less than 1 day. If you have some narrow areas a 4" varnish roller will work.
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Old 04-27-2014, 12:04 PM   #6
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Looks really good Larry! We used the finer stuff, I am not 100% sure if it was the very finest, on the swim platform which got a lot of use, as well as the FB. No one ever slipped even in wet bare feet.
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Old 04-27-2014, 02:18 PM   #7
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Looks really good Larry! We used the finer stuff, I am not 100% sure if it was the very finest, on the swim platform which got a lot of use, as well as the FB. No one ever slipped even in wet bare feet.
Thanks. We did the same when we did the swim platform using AwlGrip's 73012 which is the fine particles and love it. Good non-skid! Prep was a little more involved since the non-skid area on the platform wasn't raised as it is on the foredeck.

AlwGrip also makes an extra course product (73237). After using the course, I can't imagine the need for this on one of our boats.
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Old 04-27-2014, 02:45 PM   #8
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I'd be inclined to go w Interlux Interdeck because it's a product for decks.

15 years ago my neighbor (worked for ParkerPaint) gave me some "deck paint" for our back porch. Put on one coat and it seemed to last forever. Now I'm convinced floor and deck paint actually is special and should be sought out.

Bought some cheap stuff in AK for Willy and that was a mistake.

So Scott I'm very interested in the Interlux. Is it one part? Poly or what?

Makes me wonder what's special about bilge paint too.
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Old 04-27-2014, 02:58 PM   #9
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It's a one part poly like Brightside ...a little different formulated with non skid from what I can tell.

Last year I never got around to applying non-skid...just had the Interlux Pre-kote generic primer down and it was pretty non-skid too. Never slipped on it in a 2200 mile round trip to the FLA line and back to NJ...even with icy decks.

I have had my fill of non-skid that scrapes you up...totally not needed for anything but a big deal blue water boat. The Interdeck isn't even as rough as 200 grit and yet with my typical deck shoes...work boots, Walmart slip-ons or generic walking sneakers...I have never slipped an inch in the last 2500 mile in weather most here wouldn't travel in.

As far as it being a low cost alternative to "total cost of ownership" we gee wiz....I can dance the numbers with the best of them.

I don't own a yacht and never will...I don't have a heart attack when dropping something on my deck and chipping the paint...I could care less if my guests wear golf shoes aboard....but that's me...I maintain a boat for constant use...not constant care.

All paint needs to be redone, sooner or later and touched up at some point...if I can do a section in 1/2 hour and be done with it...so be it...even if it is every couple years.

Expensive stuff doesn't hold up any better to hard use...just yachtie use...and that's not me.
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Old 04-27-2014, 03:02 PM   #10
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Kiwigrip
Kiwigrip has a very good reputation and the preparation is not much different than any of the polyurethanes. A neighbor just finished using it. His only warning was to make sure the decks aren't to hot or it will start to set up before you are done rolling an area.
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Old 04-27-2014, 05:02 PM   #11
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Larry M,
Is that a manual anchor winch I see on your foredeck in post #5?

You must be a very strong man. I've even got a capstan for pulling mostly small anchors on my Little Willard. In those southern waters one could work up a sweat pulling anchors by hand. How heavy is your rode?

Thank you Scott. I agree about the coarse anti-skid. Got to paint my decks fairly soon.
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Old 04-27-2014, 05:14 PM   #12
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Many thanks to all for the advice. Excellent insight. It's the kind of stuff I find most valuable in this forum! Cheers to all!
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Old 04-27-2014, 07:13 PM   #13
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I'm a full year into my experiment with Rust-o-leum marine paint on our foredeck. It's holding up great so far and dirt cheep at Home Depot
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Old 04-27-2014, 10:00 PM   #14
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far…

I fixed it for you Mark.
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Old 04-27-2014, 10:47 PM   #15
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[QUOTE=psneeld -"I maintain a boat for constant use...not constant care". [/QUOTE]


Excellent plan, I care for my boat by keeping it clean and having it ready to go anywhere I want anytime I want. I've seen others with more wax on them but they hardly ever go out, look good sitting at the dock though.
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Old 04-28-2014, 01:25 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psneeld View Post
Interdeck by Interlux...non-skid is very fine but effective (doesn't hold dirt as bad)...very even coating..easy to touchup if you block off your deck into manageable sections.
That's my experience of it also, and what I would use...
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Old 04-28-2014, 03:38 AM   #17
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Kiwigrip has a very good reputation and the preparation is not much different than any of the polyurethanes. A neighbor just finished using it. His only warning was to make sure the decks aren't to hot or it will start to set up before you are done rolling an area.

Yep I love it. Used it on my go fast and it's great! ... Early morning or late afternoon is best for application. Another word of caution is get the tape off as soon as you've rolled it. For the same reason as you've listed.

AXE will get the KIWIGRIP treatment when the time comes.


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Old 04-29-2014, 07:15 AM   #18
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>We first taped off the non-skid area, sanded with a random orbital sander,<

Needing to refinish no skid is common.

Using SAND is a really bad idea as sanding sand is rather painfull.

Many no skid compounds are ground walnut shells , far reaier to remove than sand.

Folks stuck with sand paint to refinish need to go to the supply house for floor sanding machines,

their > sandpaper< is silicon carbide , not aluminum oxide , and will sand , sand.
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Old 04-29-2014, 04:55 PM   #19
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This is what's on mine . I don't know what is but the nonskid is tough as hell . You can't hardly grind it off. The paint is not that great it's kinda flaking off in places but what is under it is almost like ceramic bits are something .60 grit won't grind it off.The PO said he coated it with garage floor epoxy from Home Depot . If I can get all the loose paint off I'm going to prime it and paint it with a 1 part from Total Boat . This was a work boat first and I think the nonskid was put on then .
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Old 04-29-2014, 08:09 PM   #20
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Do you mean short term economical or total cost of ownership economical. For the latter, hard to beat AwlGrip. You can roll and tip it, though spray is best, and their little glass beads mixed in are available in various sizes depending on how coarse a non-skid you want. The swim platform, flying bridge, boat deck and sun pad/trunk cabin top of my boat were all done with AwlGrip over the past 7 years. Starting with the FB/BD 6 years ago, which has held up to a ton of year around use. There are various tutorials on the web and in boat forums on how-to. There's a guy on the Hatteras Owner's Forum, Jim Rosenthal, who did his whole 36ft Hatt on his own last year, came out pretty nice.
I second that emotion. We have 6 years on our Awlgrip deck (with flattening agent and non skid) and it looks the same now as when it was first applied.
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