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Old 06-14-2015, 06:20 PM   #21
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Based on the pictures it looks like poor adhesion and it looks like it perhaps didn't fully dry yet either. I'm guessing your last coat was to thick. It may dry over time and continue to bond. But in the mean time it will peel off.

Your best bet is to remove that layer, (or at least the areas that are not adhering correctly) sand properly and repainted laying down a thinner coat or two.
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Old 06-14-2015, 07:29 PM   #22
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Greetings,
Mr. PM. Ya know....if you got that Grand Banks, you wouldn't have to worry about your current deck any more...Just sayin'...

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Old 06-14-2015, 07:44 PM   #23
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The house floor sanding operators use vicious machine mounted drum sanders for stripping old timber floor finishes incl 2 pack, and for leveling floors for refinishing. You could explore that, you may be able to hire them from DIY equipment hire places. They use smaller hand machines for corners and edge detailing, they may not be aggressive enough for your job.
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Old 06-14-2015, 07:57 PM   #24
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Greetings,
Mr. PM. Ya know....if you got that Grand Banks, you wouldn't have to worry about your current deck any more...Just sayin'...

Nice thought . That boat has some sweet lines and plenty of room . But I would have to live aboard to afford it .
Let's get everyone onboard here . I could just install teak decks and be done . I did a quick figure and if I bought 5/4 teak and re sawed it and got two pcs out I could cover the deck for about 1800 in material cost or if is used 4/ 4 and milled it thick I could get by for around 2200 material .
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Old 06-14-2015, 08:00 PM   #25
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The house floor sanding operators use vicious machine mounted drum sanders for stripping old timber floor finishes incl 2 pack, and for leveling floors for refinishing. You could explore that, you may be able to hire them from DIY equipment hire places. They use smaller hand machines for corners and edge detailing, they may not be aggressive enough for your job.
Good idea . I know a few of those flooring guys . They would love a chance to do something different . I work for a hardwood lumber company and we make a semi load of hardwood flooring everyday .
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Old 06-14-2015, 09:32 PM   #26
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Nice thought . That boat has some sweet lines and plenty of room . But I would have to live aboard to afford it .
Let's get everyone onboard here . I could just install teak decks and be done . I did a quick figure and if I bought 5/4 teak and re sawed it and got two pcs out I could cover the deck for about 1800 in material cost or if is used 4/ 4 and milled it thick I could get by for around 2200 material .
You could but ... You would still have to prep the deck to accept the teak/TDS which means you'd have to remove the 1 part, fill, fair the decks, drainage, etc., plus the extra weight. We have both teak and non-skid decks and at the end of the day, if I was starting from scratch, the non-skid wins.
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Old 06-14-2015, 09:50 PM   #27
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You could but ... You would still have to prep the deck to accept the teak/TDS which means you'd have to remove the 1 part, fill, fair the decks, drainage, etc., plus the extra weight. We have both teak and non-skid decks and at the end of the day, if I was starting from scratch, the non-skid wins.
Yes I agree the prep work is going to be a chore by itself . I think the primer took hold its the last coat of paint that didn't take . I know better than to lay it on too thick . We still have forward deck to do . Going take a different approach with thinner coats and maybe forget the color flakes .
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Old 06-15-2015, 08:05 AM   #28
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We refinished our fore decks 2.5 years ago using a 2 part polyurethane. We prepped using epoxy to fill holes and nicks. Sanded using a standard random orbital sander, then rolled on an epoxy primer and sanded again. We then rolled on the AwlGrip, one coat and sprinkled on the non-skid. Then went back and rolled on one more coat. The hardest part was practicing to get the non-skid granules down evenly. We used a varnish roller.

There are easier alternatives such as KiwiGrip which has a very good reputation.

KiwiGrip | Non-Skid System
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Old 06-15-2015, 08:49 AM   #29
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We refinished our fore decks 2.5 years ago using a 2 part polyurethane. We prepped using epoxy to fill holes and nicks. Sanded using a standard random orbital sander, then rolled on an epoxy primer and sanded again. We then rolled on the AwlGrip, one coat and sprinkled on the non-skid. Then went back and rolled on one more coat. The hardest part was practicing to get the non-skid granules down evenly. We used a varnish roller.

There are easier alternatives such as KiwiGrip which has a very good reputation.

KiwiGrip | Non-Skid System
Was your surface smooth to begin with or did you have to remove some non-skid? The
non-skid that the PO used on William is really tough .I've tried to grind with 40 grit and it's like rock and it's layed on thick .
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Old 06-15-2015, 09:04 AM   #30
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Was your surface smooth to begin with or did you have to remove some non-skid? The
non-skid that the PO used on William is really tough .I've tried to grind with 40 grit and it's like rock and it's layed on thick .
The non-skid that was on there sanded fairly easily. We think it was AwlGrip which is a polymer. That's what we used to renew the decks and swim platform.
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Old 06-15-2015, 09:05 AM   #31
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Greetings,
Mr. PM. I bought one of these and a friend borrowed it it remove a deck coating. Seemed to work better than sanding or paint remover+scraping.

6 Piece Pneumatic Scraper Kit

An air compressor is a given. 3HP or better with a larger tank. Borrow? Rent?
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Old 06-15-2015, 09:09 AM   #32
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"If we do decide at some point to strip and repair the surface smooth to start over"

Great idea . When the deck is clean and smooth purchase some cotton mosquito net from A northern supplier.

You want as course cotton weave as you can purchase..

Pencil the no skid pattern on the deck , lay on the cotton after ironing it flat (spray starch helps) and transfer the deck design to the cotton.Cut it out.

A thin layer of 2 part epoxy paint is rolled on the deck, the cotton laid inside the pencil guide and another thin layer of 2 part is rollled on top.

The cotton sucks up the paint so the weave is accuentated.

As strong as the quality of the epoxy used , as fancy as you chose to layout and best of all when someone drags a anchor and makes a grove , you sand cotton , not sand for the next repaint.

Get it right and it looks like the bottom deck of a Boston Whaler .

Cheap too,,,,,
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Old 06-15-2015, 09:09 AM   #33
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Single part polyurethane paints are not really polyurethane. Usually they have some PU as an additive in an enamel base, or any other one part base, acrylic etc. Kinda like EasyPoxy is not even close to being epoxy, marketing BS. On a deck, especially one that is a little rough, I use a polyurethane rubber coating. Sanitred is good if you cant spray but is labor and knowledge/experience intensive. I've been using ExtremeCoatings a lot lately. Sprayed with a suction gun. It comes in several colors and is very easy to apply. The nonskid (rubber granuals) can be had in different textures, course to fine) and it covers a rough surface extremely well. Not terribly expensive.
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Old 06-15-2015, 09:12 AM   #34
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You could also try a concrete grinder. They look like a disk floor sander. I have seem them used to remove swirl and trowel marks. Some have dust collectors. I have never seen one tried on a deck though.
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Old 07-05-2015, 07:46 AM   #35
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Ok don't panic . This is a separate issue from my deck paint but same area . I noticed a crack a few weeks ago and the area started to pop up around the crack. It got worse and water was getting in . I thought it was the fiberglass delaminating and had planned on working on it soon . After fireworks last night and a bunch of family on the boat I notice a piece about 2" in diameter gone . So after everybody left I started digging in and this is about 8" in diameter now . It's not fiberglass it's thickened epoxy paint . Evidently the PO used that garage floor epoxy product on this deck and it didn't adhere in this area and developed a crack . It's about 1/16 to 1/8 thick . My plan is to take it back as far as it takes to see good adhesion ,clean with acetone and float it out with epoxy fairing compound,prime and paint.
Ok let me have it guys . I'm sure some would say rip it all up and start over but that ain't happening. But I woul like to here suggestions .
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Old 07-05-2015, 01:37 PM   #36
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Your plan sounds just fine to me.
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Old 07-05-2015, 02:40 PM   #37
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I'm not sure what this material is . It might be kiwi grip that wasn't put on very well . We pulled up some more today . I hope I can get back to some area with good adhesion before tearing the whole thing up . It's not pretty .
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Old 07-05-2015, 04:30 PM   #38
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I don't recall Kiwi Grip coming in a splatter finish.
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Old 07-05-2015, 04:46 PM   #39
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I don't recall Kiwi Grip coming in a splatter finish.
Thanks Capt. Bill .We finally got back to good adhesion today . I believe it is that garage floor stuff . We'll start repair tomorrow . Now I have about an 20" diameter area to repair .
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Old 07-06-2015, 06:47 AM   #40
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"The house floor sanding operators use vicious machine mounted drum sanders for stripping old timber floor finishes"

The sand "paper" they use is fantastic for sanding most anything .Sold at most rental places.

It is silicone carbide , and the #16 or #24 looks like rocks stuck on stiff cardboard.

It does not gunk up, even on fresh GRP with no wax , or old bottom paint 1/2 in thick.

I use an auto body grinder with a thick (2 inch) Bear Manning pad and disc sanding glue to stick it in place.

DO not cut the material round ( 2 -4 ft will do most boats) , just cut or snap it square so the corners are intact , and will help not creating wavy surface.

VERY light pressure is required a light weight sander is easier to control than a big 15A,, 15 lb monster.

A 100 sq ft area just being cleaned for painting should be 20 min ,after you get the hang of it.
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