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Old 10-12-2015, 05:28 PM   #1
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Cutlass bearing replacement

Approximatly how long between cutlass bearing changes? Do you remove the shafts to change them? I ask this because I just changed mine and that hurt financially, I bought the boat (Defever 49 CPMY) in April Used it took 6 bearing
Parts $877.54 labor $1116.00 Zinks $199.50 Labor to remove and replace shafts $1915.80 this seems extremely high!
Any opinions!
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Old 10-12-2015, 06:24 PM   #2
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Approximatly how long between cutlass bearing changes? Do you remove the shafts to change them? I ask this because I just changed mine and that hurt financially, I bought the boat (Defever 49 CPMY) in April Used it took 6 bearing
Parts $877.54 labor $1116.00 Zinks $199.50 Labor to remove and replace shafts $1915.80 this seems extremely high!
Any opinions!
Yep big boats big bills.
Got a few of em.
But back to your question. I've got almost 1500 hours on mine with no real signs of wear.
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Old 10-12-2015, 07:03 PM   #3
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I replaced mine this year. It had been in the boat since 1973. It was still OK, but I had the shaft out.

For reference

1. Pulling the shaft - 30 minutes
2. Remove old cutless bearing - 1 hour (it was stubborn)
3. Install new cutless - 30 minutes

Cost - cutless bearing $70
I also had the shaft trued and the coupler refaced. In addition I decided to replace the 40 year old stuffing box. This work came to about $200.
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Old 10-12-2015, 08:03 PM   #4
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I'm about to do mine in Dunkirk.
I have the cutlass bearing £60.00, I'm also taking the opportunity to replace the stuffing box with a PSS seal as the shaft will be pulled. £ 275.00
A new plummer block (pillow block, mid shaft bearing) call it what you will from an industrial supplier was £19.00, (2 thirds cheaper than a marine supplier)
I will confirm the lift price and timing once I have the bill.
I do all my own work so no labour charges to add.
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Old 10-12-2015, 08:14 PM   #5
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Cutless bearings usually last a long time but they can be damaged by out of true shafts, engine misalignment or even dinged props. Depending on size the approximate $150 per cutless bearing you paid is roughly the going retail. I replaced 2 last spring and for 1 3/4 shafts found them on line for $99 - $199 each. Depending on what exactly needed to be done to pull the shafts I can see 5 hrs or so labor to R & R the shafts and 6 bearings. Some more labor for the zincs. I don't think the total cost is so far out of line.

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Old 10-12-2015, 08:21 PM   #6
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Approximatly how long between cutlass bearing changes? Do you remove the shafts to change them? I ask this because I just changed mine and that hurt financially, I bought the boat (Defever 49 CPMY) in April Used it took 6 bearing
Parts $877.54 labor $1116.00 Zinks $199.50 Labor to remove and replace shafts $1915.80 this seems extremely high!
Any opinions!
If I am reading this right a $4K job to replace the cutlass bearings and zinks. That sounds really high even at the ridiculous rates of $100 per hour that yards charge. I would want to see a break down of the labor and material costs before paying. I would then check around to see if they were justifiable.
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Old 10-12-2015, 09:28 PM   #7
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If I am reading this right a $4K job to replace the cutlass bearings and zinks. That sounds really high even at the ridiculous rates of $100 per hour that yards charge. I would want to see a break down of the labor and material costs before paying. I would then check around to see if they were justifiable.
LOL come to Houston, and enjoy the unfettered shredding of your bank account.

I literally had a guy that was a "100 ton Captain" amp up his costs 50% of his initial estimate from merely listening to himself tell me how hard the job would be.
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Old 10-12-2015, 09:28 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by READY2GO View Post
If I am reading this right a $4K job to replace the cutlass bearings and zinks. That sounds really high even at the ridiculous rates of $100 per hour that yards charge. I would want to see a break down of the labor and material costs before paying. I would then check around to see if they were justifiable.
The costs are broken out.
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Old 10-12-2015, 10:07 PM   #9
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LOL come to Houston, and enjoy the unfettered shredding of your bank account.

I literally had a guy that was a "100 ton Captain" amp up his costs 50% of his initial estimate from merely listening to himself tell me how hard the job would be.
You hired a "licensed captain " to do this job ? Isn't that like hiring a licensed taxi driver to do your brake work
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Old 10-12-2015, 11:18 PM   #10
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I did this job by myself about five years ago. (Had a short assist from a yard guy to extract and reinsert the bare shafts). 44' OA, 2-15' x 2" shafts with three bearings each. Bearings today are priced at $720 from the original supplier. Shafts had to come out...remove props, zincs, flanges, stuffing boxes...replace tubes on stuffing boxes, reinstall all, repack stuffing boxes, reattach/realign shafts. Took me three long days. A helper to chase down and shuttle tools inside or outside the boat would have saved time, but this is a pretty big job requiring a lot of muscle. I wouldn't do it myself again..
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Old 10-13-2015, 12:08 AM   #11
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Price seems about right to me. I have a single bearing on my 13' x 2.5" shaft. The bearing was 2.5" x 10", I think $350 for the bearing. Did most of the labor myself.

If everything is aligned proberly and you stay out of sandy shallow water, 5 to 10 thousand hours would be a reasonable life expectancy.....maybe more.

Ted
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Old 10-13-2015, 07:10 AM   #12
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You hired a "licensed captain " to do this job ? Isn't that like hiring a licensed taxi driver to do your brake work
He runs a repair yard as well as being a captain. I didnt hire him, he talked too much.
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Old 10-13-2015, 08:27 AM   #13
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The costs are broken out.
Maybe, maybe not. All we have been given are two totals, labor and parts. Maybe the op has more info and has not shared it, but if all he got was a bill with total labor and total parts I would want more. When I was in business and presented a bill it would have a list of materials and their cost and a list of the labor in hours per man per day and what was accomplished during that time. That is not too much to ask for. If the yard refuses to do that there is a serious problem.
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Old 10-13-2015, 11:13 AM   #14
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A new plummer block (pillow block, mid shaft bearing) call it what you will from an industrial supplier was £19.00, (2 thirds cheaper than a marine supplier)

The Marine units are far more expensive as the good units can be rebuilt (bearing and both inner and outer races replaced) in place , with out removing the shaft.

They are a great bit of machining.

They usually have better seals so errant water will not cause an early failure.

http://www.pacificmarine.net/enginee...r-bearings.htm
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Old 10-13-2015, 11:24 AM   #15
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A new plummer block (pillow block, mid shaft bearing) call it what you will from an industrial supplier was £19.00, (2 thirds cheaper than a marine supplier)

The Marine units are far more expensive as the good units can be rebuilt (bearing and both inner and outer races replaced) in place , with out removing the shaft.

They are a great bit of machining.

They usually have better seals so errant water will not cause an early failure.

http://www.pacificmarine.net/enginee...r-bearings.htm
I could be wrong but I think the OP was talking about replacing his underwater strut shaft bearings, not pillow blocks.
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Old 10-13-2015, 12:49 PM   #16
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Approximatly how long between cutlass bearing changes? Do you remove the shafts to change them? I ask this because I just changed mine and that hurt financially, I bought the boat (Defever 49 CPMY) in April Used it took 6 bearing
Parts $877.54 labor $1116.00 Zinks $199.50 Labor to remove and replace shafts $1915.80 this seems extremely high!
Any opinions!
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I could be wrong but I think the OP was talking about replacing his underwater strut shaft bearings, not pillow blocks.
they make a hyd. tool that pushes the cutless out without removing the shafts
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Old 10-13-2015, 02:16 PM   #17
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"they make a hyd. tool that pushes the cutless out without removing the shafts"

I have used that tool - but he has 3 cutlass's per shaft.
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Old 10-13-2015, 02:40 PM   #18
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Maybe, maybe not. All we have been given are two totals, labor and parts. Maybe the op has more info and has not shared it, but if all he got was a bill with total labor and total parts I would want more. When I was in business and presented a bill it would have a list of materials and their cost and a list of the labor in hours per man per day and what was accomplished during that time. That is not too much to ask for. If the yard refuses to do that there is a serious problem.
You are correct Ready2go but I did not feel it necessary to outline all the other charges as I am not disputing them, I hit some thing hard and got a vibration so I had the 240" shafts straightened, the prop's reconditioned I even spoke to the surveyor and the original owner since the boat was out in April and surveyed I believed the cutlass bearing were checked so This is an unexpected cost's I am glad I did it though when talking to the original owner he said he had the 4 of them done 5 years ago then I told him their are 6 he did not know about the other 2 so they were original to the boat 16 years ago!
Gregg
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Thanks all for your responces, they are informative and I hope some one can use this input!
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Old 10-13-2015, 02:43 PM   #19
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they make a hyd. tool that pushes the cutless out without removing the shafts
Yea They have the tool but said they could not use it due to the design of the bearing it was conical at the ends

Gregg
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Old 10-13-2015, 02:46 PM   #20
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"they make a hyd. tool that pushes the cutless out without removing the shafts"

I have used that tool - but he has 3 cutlass's per shaft.

Right. Not sure if that boat has two struts per shaft and one at the hull exit, or if it's like our OA that has a long stainless steel stern tube with a bearing on each end...plus a strut bearing at the prop. On the OA, the most forward bearing is under the stateroom floor (accessible through a small hatch), and the middle bearing is about five feet aft at the other end of the tube. They both have to be tapped/driven out with a long (about eight feet) piece of pipe...a real chore to maneuver inside the engine room space. Fortunately it's a fresh water boat, so they popped out with little effort.

Speaking of hydraulic tools, I made a hydraulic prop puller from a large Harbor Freight hydraulic gear puller. Had to redrill the holes on the three hooks so they'd reach the hub on the prop, but that's it. The hydraulic cylinder clears the offset rudders by about half an inch. If the prop has been on the boat for a long time I have to heat the hub a bit with a MAP torch, but it works like a champ pulling 24" props on 2" shafts. . (Only for three blade props up to about a 2" shaft size as the hub gets too fat for the geometry of the puller if larger).
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