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Old 11-07-2018, 06:57 AM   #1
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Interior finish GB42

I recently purchased a 1989 GB42 classic. Some of the interior wood needs to be refinished. The original manual that came with the boat when new stated "Epiglass Teak Oil - Timber Wood" was used as the interior finish on the teak. That product is no longer available. Any good suggestions on an alternative product that would match?
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Old 11-07-2018, 09:41 AM   #2
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Iceboat51,

You’ll get great answers from the folks here. However, I also encourage you to join and check the archives of Grand Banks Owner's Resources.

Many different finishes were used on the interior teak wood on GB. Some like gloss, some like flat. I’d start with good cleaners and preservatives. I like Kruckenberg’s Gourmet Funiture Cleaner.
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Old 11-07-2018, 10:24 AM   #3
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Old 11-07-2018, 12:06 PM   #4
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Thanks for the recommendation of Grand Banks Resources
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Old 11-07-2018, 02:37 PM   #5
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Thanks for the recommendation of Grand Banks Resources
You’re welcome. The subject of interior finish and refinishing has been brought up before here and on GB Resources. A lot of discussion on refinishing the sole, if needed, too. Good luck!

Oh, and welcome to Trawler Forum! Sea ya’ around.

Edit: when you’re in GB Owners, check the section “Manuals”. Many of us copied our boat manuals and uploaded them to that section. Many of the manuals have pages in them that defined interior paint type and color, varnish, etc. My 1986 GB42 hull number is 966.
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Old 11-08-2018, 06:22 AM   #6
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I recently refinished a bunch of the interior teak. Some of it had water stains which had to be sanded down, while most was still in good shape. I found the best way to match color was to apply the interlux clear wood sealer on any areas that had to be sanded down to bare teak. I had tried a variety of stains to match the reddish tint of the original finish, but the wood sealer is by-far the best. It seems to soak into the wood a tiny bit, causing the wood to turn a bit redder to match the original finish seen everywhere else.

After hitting the bare areas with sealer, everything was quickly abraded with 220 grit and treated to the varathane water-based satin. The finish looks amazing, it's durable enough for inside the boat, it matches the original finish well, and it has virtually no smell and dries incredibly quickly. It's a downright pleasure to apply this stuff - water based polyurethanes have really come a long way in the last few years.

Whatever you choose, make sure you test it out a bit.
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Old 11-08-2018, 06:50 AM   #7
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Thank you for this feedback. I will try the interlux clear. I have some outdoor old teak outdoor furniture and have tested different products ... but ... the wood itself varies.
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Old 11-08-2018, 11:41 AM   #8
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Whatever you choose, NO SILICONE and NO WAX! Otherwise you will have bird's eyes in the finish this time or next and the only way to get rid of them is with a cleansing fire.
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Old 11-08-2018, 02:47 PM   #9
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I recently refinished a bunch of the interior teak. Some of it had water stains which had to be sanded down, while most was still in good shape. I found the best way to match color was to apply the interlux clear wood sealer on any areas that had to be sanded down to bare teak. I had tried a variety of stains to match the reddish tint of the original finish, but the wood sealer is by-far the best. It seems to soak into the wood a tiny bit, causing the wood to turn a bit redder to match the original finish seen everywhere else.

After hitting the bare areas with sealer, everything was quickly abraded with 220 grit and treated to the varathane water-based satin. The finish looks amazing, it's durable enough for inside the boat, it matches the original finish well, and it has virtually no smell and dries incredibly quickly. It's a downright pleasure to apply this stuff - water based polyurethanes have really come a long way in the last few years.

Whatever you choose, make sure you test it out a bit.
I tried Varathane water base alongside Helmsman oil base a few years ago. I divided the area to be coated down the middle, one on teh Stb side, the other on Port.
The water base gave a very hard finish, was easier to clean up, but after only one winter, the finish was badly water marked, mostly from condensation from the nearby windows, and looked awful. Due to the hardness, it was difficult to recover from this error. Now I won't use any water based finishes, until somehow I become convinced they are past this characteristic.
I hope the Varathanes have been re-formulated, but haven't heard or seen any evidence of that occurring.
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Old 11-08-2018, 03:51 PM   #10
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I tried Varathane water base alongside Helmsman oil base a few years ago. I divided the area to be coated down the middle, one on teh Stb side, the other on Port.
The water base gave a very hard finish, was easier to clean up, but after only one winter, the finish was badly water marked, mostly from condensation from the nearby windows, and looked awful. Due to the hardness, it was difficult to recover from this error. Now I won't use any water based finishes, until somehow I become convinced they are past this characteristic.
I hope the Varathanes have been re-formulated, but haven't heard or seen any evidence of that occurring.
Nice! Love a good, scientific test. How does the water stain manifest itself, do you have any photos? I put in double pane windows, so maybe mine just haven't seen as much moisture from condensation (tho it certainly gets cold up here in Boston).
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Old 11-08-2018, 05:59 PM   #11
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I tried water based varnish but it was on the caprail.
Just like Keith said .. thin and not durable.

For interior on all my teak I just use my own variable mix of oil.
I use household water based floor paint on my cabin floors.
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Old 11-08-2018, 07:09 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Westiculo View Post
Nice! Love a good, scientific test. How does the water stain manifest itself, do you have any photos? I put in double pane windows, so maybe mine just haven't seen as much moisture from condensation (tho it certainly gets cold up here in Boston).
Sorry, no pictures. The marks looked like, well...water stains. Lighter in colour than the rest, streaks showing where the water dripped. blotches where is sat. Ugly. All gone though. So ugly I got to getting it off quickly and went to oil base on that side too.
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Old 11-11-2018, 06:56 AM   #13
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"water-based satin."


The key here is SATIN , as btight reflected light in heavy motion can create a VOMITORIUM.
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Old 11-19-2018, 12:47 PM   #14
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I swear by the Interlux satin interior varnish, I like it so much I did the molding in my old farmhouse with it. It's not cheap... applies best with an ox hair brush... but worth it in my opinion.
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Old 11-19-2018, 01:09 PM   #15
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GB Interior Finish

I have a '88 GB 46 and have refinished some of the interior. The manual specifies that they used a mix of 25% gloss and 75% semi gloss Timbertone varnish. I have used two parts matte finish with one part gloss Epiphanes Wood Finish and get a result almost identical to the original.
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Old 11-19-2018, 02:44 PM   #16
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We have an 1989 46 GB. No oil goes on our boat. Satin interior varnish and bright varnish on all the cabin soles. Don’t mess up a beautiful parquet teak floor with oil.
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Old 11-22-2018, 09:30 AM   #17
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Interior Finish

Recently refinished several interior areas. I think the wood is walnut with varnish on top. Removed the varnish with Pettit varnish thinner, mixed Pettit Flagship gloss and Pettit satin and applied with a brush thinned about 20% with same thinner. Results have been good. It is a learning process.
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Old 11-22-2018, 11:34 AM   #18
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on our teak interior, we use MIN-WAX polyurathane semigloss, pick your color...wipe on with a rag...ours has lasted yrs, and is easy to re-coat...clyde
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