Corrosion Control
- Thread starter kartracer
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If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Comodave
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Try something like Extend. It is a rust converter. If the rust is not scaling, it will convert it and it will be ready to paint.
Ski in NC
Technical Guru
CRC corrosion block. But sounds like you have a humidity issue. Or hatches dripping from above. Both bad juju.
Better than a fan is a dehumidifier. I use one on my boat, it is magic.
Better than a fan is a dehumidifier. I use one on my boat, it is magic.
There are several products designed to protect metal from rusting. Shop at your favorite marine retailer. Home centers and hardware stores also sell such products, marketed to protect tools.
Some of these products are wax based, some are oil based. I prefer wax based because the oil based products tend to collect dirt.
Some of these products are wax based, some are oil based. I prefer wax based because the oil based products tend to collect dirt.
dhays
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On my engine I use a SS wire brush on any rusted spots and then paint with some Cummins paint that I have. If I didn't have that I would simply use Rustoleum. I also spray the engine with CorrosionX. I spray it on and spread it with a rag. As others have mentioned, any oil based product can collect dirt, but I still like it better than wax. If the engine has dirty spots, I will use an orange based cleaner or something like Simple green to clean it, then follow it up with CorrosionX.
You can use most anything, BoeShield works well, even WD-40 will work. So find what you like and use it.
I also keep a dehumidifier on the boat. Actually last weekend I swapped my compressor type dehumidifier for two Eva-Dry models. I will see how they compare.
You can use most anything, BoeShield works well, even WD-40 will work. So find what you like and use it.
I also keep a dehumidifier on the boat. Actually last weekend I swapped my compressor type dehumidifier for two Eva-Dry models. I will see how they compare.
Comodave
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If they are already rusted, then you need to treat the rusted parts before you can paint them. Products like WD 40, etc are designed to prevent the rust in the first place. Now that there is already rust, you need to either get rid of the rust or convert it with a rust converter like Extend. Then paint it and do rust prevention.
Rogerh
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I had a humidity issue in my engine rooms and I found that if I left two 60w lights on in engine room it completely solved any moisture that sweated on the engines. Both lights are in engine room fixtures and brackets.
Steve
Guru
Fluid Film is very good stuff too, it might be hard to find I believe John Deere dealers carry it: FLUID FILM | Powerful Corrosion Protection & Lubrication
Some Lowes too.
Some Lowes too.
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There is a difference between rust and corrosion.
Rust can be treated with a lot of products that convert the rust to a paintable surface and works pretty well. However, I could argue for some rust removal stuff like Naval Jelly, which works well on easy to wire brush surfaces.
And there's lots of rust products to coat metal after the rust is removed or converted. Rustoleum is a great product.
Corrosion is a different animal and once you have it you need to mechanically remove it. That's with a wire brush, sandpaper or file. I don't know anything that will "dissolve" corrosion, and I've tried a bunch.
WD40 is not good for any of the above. It's only a water dispersant product.
Corrosion is excellent for corrosion prevention and good for any metals and electrical stuff. I buy it by the gallon. There's a bunch of other good products like Boeshield, LPS products, CRC products and more.
I use Corrosion X with a fine mist for areas like bilges, engine compartments, electrical areas, etc. Boeshield is good for stuff that spends a lot of time in the water, like drives, props and shafts, kayak pedals, and even booties with metal zippers.
And know what are the issues. Metals will rust and some will corrode. Aluminum will not rust, but will seriously corrode.
Corrosion is a BIG issue on boats and needs to be addressed.
Rust can be treated with a lot of products that convert the rust to a paintable surface and works pretty well. However, I could argue for some rust removal stuff like Naval Jelly, which works well on easy to wire brush surfaces.
And there's lots of rust products to coat metal after the rust is removed or converted. Rustoleum is a great product.
Corrosion is a different animal and once you have it you need to mechanically remove it. That's with a wire brush, sandpaper or file. I don't know anything that will "dissolve" corrosion, and I've tried a bunch.
WD40 is not good for any of the above. It's only a water dispersant product.
Corrosion is excellent for corrosion prevention and good for any metals and electrical stuff. I buy it by the gallon. There's a bunch of other good products like Boeshield, LPS products, CRC products and more.
I use Corrosion X with a fine mist for areas like bilges, engine compartments, electrical areas, etc. Boeshield is good for stuff that spends a lot of time in the water, like drives, props and shafts, kayak pedals, and even booties with metal zippers.
And know what are the issues. Metals will rust and some will corrode. Aluminum will not rust, but will seriously corrode.
Corrosion is a BIG issue on boats and needs to be addressed.
Ski in NC
Technical Guru
If there is visible corrosion on a gennie, the problem is not that there are unsightly blemishes on bolt heads.
The same humidity conditions are present inside the air cooled electrical end and if things are corroding on the outside, they are corroding on the inside, too. Just about every stator failure I have repaired was caused by corrosion. Either from humidity swings or actual liquid water dripping on it.
All this talk about coatings and paint do nothing to address what will kill the electrical end from the inside. Need to control the moisture, somehow.
The same humidity conditions are present inside the air cooled electrical end and if things are corroding on the outside, they are corroding on the inside, too. Just about every stator failure I have repaired was caused by corrosion. Either from humidity swings or actual liquid water dripping on it.
All this talk about coatings and paint do nothing to address what will kill the electrical end from the inside. Need to control the moisture, somehow.
sdowney717
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My 1970 Onan gen is mounted under a leaky teak deck, everytime it rained it got wet, and yeah got rusted. It was so bad the control box top rusted away, had to make a new one. Prior owners had not been able to even use it.
My solutions were, take apart lots of it, clean, prime and paint.
Then I made a waterproof flat panel from glue, hardboard, some pine 3/4" strips to cover the entire gen.
It is supported by some wood rails screwed into the boat framing under the hatch covers.
All the rain is shed away to the edges.
My solutions were, take apart lots of it, clean, prime and paint.
Then I made a waterproof flat panel from glue, hardboard, some pine 3/4" strips to cover the entire gen.
It is supported by some wood rails screwed into the boat framing under the hatch covers.
All the rain is shed away to the edges.
