cleaning fuel tanks

[psneeld]

Art wrote:psneeld wrote:
for the gasser boats...regular ethanol fuel cleans the tank all by itself VERY well.* Once phase separation occurs or you get a big slug of water (meaning separation soon to follow)...that has to be removed and cleaned though.

I'm sure lightly crudded diesel tanks could be cleaned with an additive...but I would never run it though my diesel.* Most additives dilute diesel lubricity (no matter what most boaters, additive manufacturers, mechanics, old timers, etc...etc tell you) so I would only clean my tanks as a separate action to running clean fuel with one of a handfull of additives through my engine.

Hi Scott

I clearly see from your posts that you have a lot of marine background, i.e. learned experience.* Much you say hits nail on head, I read your input carefully.*

Regarding Soltron fuel additive, I wonder if you could take time to carefully examine the in-depth info on Soltrons website and give us your unbiased opinion on what attributes you feel Soltron might provide?* In the site there is much they profess; with seemingly good stats and backup. http://www.soltron-gtr.com/english.htm

Ive had years of really good results by utilizing Soltron with gasoline rigs*and have had many gas as well as diesel boat owners on several forums and at boatyards also speak highly of Soltrons capabilities for apparatus cleaning and fuel stabilization.* To date Ive not heard one Soltron user say negative things and most greatly applaud its results after using it for years.* Many who have never used Soltron and therefore have not experienced its results down play it, I guess from lack of practical knowledge.

Any input you can provide on this is appreciated!

Thanks! Art*

*

*Thanks for the compliment!

My cut on most additives is they are snake oil. While many have some good properties to them...many are actually harmful to your engine in other ways. So I am very leary of them....including Soltron unless a fuel or engine manufacturer starts singing it's praises.

Just because they have endorsements...doesn't mean squat.* I worked in the USCG for many years and what some guys came up with downright scared me.*

The only endorsements I would believe for fuel additives would be ones endorsed by the engine or fuel manufacturers because they have serious vested interest in that fuels performance.* Because I see little or no endorsements from those sources...I'm suspect of most additives.

Now I do concede that some additives to prevent fuel icing/gelling or anti-microbial (sp?) and lastly stabilizing for long term storage are the only ones I would really recommend.**But they have to be the same that have mil-spec certs or have been around forever and only claim to do what their main function is...not the rainbow to the pot of gold stuff.* I might use*a lubricity additive... but I've read the best is actually a bit of bio-diesel added to regular diesel.* I have a study results printout from "The Diesel Place" if you would like a copy/link...it's amazing how many big name additives are actually bad for your engine.

Gassers are actually lucky....except for phase separation in methanol fuel..the methanol is one ingredient*of the old additives that DID everything from remove water to clean injectrs/tanks/carbs (gets rid of varnish)

*



-- Edited by psneeld on Monday 2nd of January 2012 03:58:28 PM


-- Edited by psneeld on Tuesday 3rd of January 2012 07:01:44 AM

 

[dannyboy]

going with sea-built idea .localish* supplier no longer supplying so going to fab my own only square . will 4mm plate fastened at 50mm centres suffice

cheers again

danny

*

 

[Steve]

I had thought it was illegal for some reason but apparently (according to this article) that is only for Gasoline fuel tanks. This link is to an article on the subject and an interesting photo.

http://georgebuehler.com/Fuel tank drains.html

Steve W

 

[Max Simmons]

My original steel tanks are covered with insulation, I am guessing to reduce condensation inside the tank. The tanks appear OK solid, around inspection plate, some surface rust, but not too bad. The rest is hidden behind the insulation. Does it make sense to remove the insulation, or leave in place? My main concern is that if it leaked around the filler cap, the insulation would absorb the water and trap it against the steel. As of now all is dry.