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Old 01-13-2016, 06:01 PM   #1
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Changed Fuel Filters-Trying Something New

I changed out my primaries and secondary fuel filters and cleaned the Racor housings. What I like about these old 3208T/As, so long as you fill the Racors and the secondary filters with fuel, I don't have to do any pumping as very little if any air is introduced. Another task done on ASD for the trip north this summer.

I also installed these cool vacuum gages on the primary filters. They work like an air cleaner gage on your diesel truck. You can read more here:

Fuel Fixers - Filter Change Gauges
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Old 01-13-2016, 08:23 PM   #2
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I had those gauges on our Racors when we bought the boat, and after i changed the filters they never looked right (probably user error )

My compliments on a nice looking ER. What is the ProMariner device on your battery wiring on the rear wall?
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Old 01-13-2016, 08:38 PM   #3
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My compliments on a nice looking ER. What is the ProMariner device on your battery wiring on the rear wall?
Thanks.

ProlsoCharge Series | ProMariner

Here was my adventure in installing it:

6VDC Golf Cart Battery Question
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Old 01-13-2016, 11:26 PM   #4
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Great looking ER, Tom! When the suction increases, does the green/red cylinder become all red?
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Old 01-14-2016, 12:27 PM   #5
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Great looking ER, Tom! When the suction increases, does the green/red cylinder become all red?
Thanks.

Once your filter starts to get plugged, the gage will start moving to red. Time to change the filter and reset the gage. One thing I am curious about is when I am running 80% (2200 rpms) will that affect the gages....we will see.
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Old 01-14-2016, 01:47 PM   #6
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Thanks.

Once your filter starts to get plugged, the gage will start moving to red. Time to change the filter and reset the gage. One thing I am curious about is when I am running 80% (2200 rpms) will that affect the gages....we will see.
You will see an increase in vacuum as the engine spools up, the gauge will hold on the highest reading taken. The reset button on the top will return it to zero.

With the recent changes in diesel fuel chemistry, it is a good idea to change fuel filters even more frequently, as the "new" fuel is better able to carry water through the filters and into your injection system, so basing your filter changes on restriction is not such a good idea anymore.
I have added filters to my boats system (now 3 inline), and am now changing them every 100 hrs, regardless of the vacuum reading.
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Old 01-14-2016, 01:52 PM   #7
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Tom, that's a great looking engine room. Nice layout with the Racors. I have those gauges on my Racors and they never seem to move. I must be getting some very clean fuel. That, and the anti algae stuff I put in when I fill up keeps the fuel clean.
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Old 01-14-2016, 02:38 PM   #8
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You will see an increase in vacuum as the engine spools up, the gauge will hold on the highest reading taken. The reset button on the top will return it to zero.

With the recent changes in diesel fuel chemistry, it is a good idea to change fuel filters even more frequently, as the "new" fuel is better able to carry water through the filters and into your injection system, so basing your filter changes on restriction is not such a good idea anymore.
I have added filters to my boats system (now 3 inline), and am now changing them every 100 hrs, regardless of the vacuum reading.
That sounds like excessive fuel filter changing. 100 hrs? Did you get this advice from a professional?

Not sure what you mean by changes in diesel chemistry that warrants this level of filter changes. Are you finding water in your filters?
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Old 01-14-2016, 02:47 PM   #9
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With the recent changes in diesel fuel chemistry, it is a good idea to change fuel filters even more frequently, as the "new" fuel is better able to carry water through the filters and into your injection system, so basing your filter changes on restriction is not such a good idea anymore.
Are you speaking of biodiesel blends?

The increased hydrotreating of diesel to create ULSD has no implications for water affinity that I know of.

Biodiesel/diesel blends, with the increased esters and acids present in the biodiesel tend to be more polar, and would have a higher affinity for water.

I would not use biodiesel or biodiesel blends in my marine diesel. Or more precisely, fill and store any biodiesel in my boats fuel tanks.
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Old 01-14-2016, 03:46 PM   #10
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I should have added that the fuel filter interval will hopefully lengthen in the near future, am currently mopping up after an inadvertent tankfull of biodiesel, by mixing it with, hopefully, clean diesel.
Read Nigel Calder's article in December issue of Professional Boatbuilder if you really want the shit scared out of you!
The fuel you buy may look clean, but that's because the contaminants are going right through your filters due to surfactants in ULSD additives and filter ratings shortcomings.
"conventional water-separation techniques fail to remove from 40% to 100% of fuel-entrained water and have no mechanism to warn the operator of this failure" (Donaldson Filtration Solutions)
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Old 01-15-2016, 07:20 AM   #11
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"conventional water-separation techniques fail to remove from 40% to 100% of fuel-entrained water and have no mechanism to warn the operator of this failure" (Donaldson Filtration Solutions)"

For a gas boat , no problem.

An ancient diesel A DE Emulsifier and a bottom drain solves the hassle.

For an Ultra High pressure electric injected engine the de emulsifier and 3 or 4 filters in line might do.

Personally I think this is a fantastic opportunity for the folks that build centrifugal fuel filtration (Alpha Laval) to create a DC powered low cost unit as the modern cars and trucks suffer from dirty diesel from the same pipe line.
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Old 01-15-2016, 01:05 PM   #12
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Tom, that's a great looking engine room. Nice layout with the Racors. I have those gauges on my Racors and they never seem to move. I must be getting some very clean fuel. That, and the anti algae stuff I put in when I fill up keeps the fuel clean.

Thank you. I did not have much "crude" in my filters. When I paid to have my tanks cleaned back in 2013 when we bought the boat, the guy doing the work insisted that by adding the anti-alge stuff when we fill up. He said it was an investment and worth every penny.
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Old 01-15-2016, 01:34 PM   #13
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I should have added that the fuel filter interval will hopefully lengthen in the near future, am currently mopping up after an inadvertent tankfull of biodiesel, by mixing it with, hopefully, clean diesel.
Read Nigel Calder's article in December issue of Professional Boatbuilder if you really want the shit scared out of you!
The fuel you buy may look clean, but that's because the contaminants are going right through your filters due to surfactants in ULSD additives and filter ratings shortcomings.
"conventional water-separation techniques fail to remove from 40% to 100% of fuel-entrained water and have no mechanism to warn the operator of this failure" (Donaldson Filtration Solutions)
Are you saying that the water remains in solution??? I have a hard time believing that!!!
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Old 01-16-2016, 08:44 PM   #14
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FuelFixers also has the same type gauge for air filters too... You install it in the intake between the filter and the turbo intake, or the engine intake manifold and it shows you when it is time to replace the filter.
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Old 01-17-2016, 07:12 AM   #15
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"Are you saying that the water remains in solution??? I have a hard time believing that!!!"

," but that's because the contaminants are going right through your filters due to surfactants in ULSD additives and filter ratings shortcomings.
"conventional water-separation techniques fail to remove from 40% to 100% of fuel-entrained water and have no mechanism to warn the operator of this failure" (Donaldson Filtration Solutions)"

Since they make filters worldwide and are not promoting their product , and they do have testing labs , you better believe it!
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Old 01-17-2016, 04:45 PM   #16
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I like your vacuum gauges.


I mentioned this elsewhere:

Consider marking the Racor drain petcock "open" and "close" directions. I would end up with the coffee can too full of fuel by the time I figured out which direction to close the drain. I'm slightly dyslexic and maybe the Racor fitting are backwards.
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Old 01-18-2016, 03:19 PM   #17
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I like your vacuum gauges.


I mentioned this elsewhere:

Consider marking the Racor drain petcock "open" and "close" directions. I would end up with the coffee can too full of fuel by the time I figured out which direction to close the drain. I'm slightly dyslexic and maybe the Racor fitting are backwards.
Good idea!!! Thanks
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Old 01-18-2016, 09:48 PM   #18
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"Are you saying that the water remains in solution??? I have a hard time believing that!!!"

," but that's because the contaminants are going right through your filters due to surfactants in ULSD additives and filter ratings shortcomings.
"conventional water-separation techniques fail to remove from 40% to 100% of fuel-entrained water and have no mechanism to warn the operator of this failure" (Donaldson Filtration Solutions)"

Since they make filters worldwide and are not promoting their product , and they do have testing labs , you better believe it!
Hey FF....you are the only one that quotes things in a weird way! Back to my question.....Is the water held in solution????
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Old 01-18-2016, 11:36 PM   #19
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Hey FF....you are the only one that quotes things in a weird way! Back to my question.....Is the water held in solution????
Just a click of the QUOTE button in the post box. Even a neanderthal could do it.
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Old 01-18-2016, 11:46 PM   #20
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That sounds like excessive fuel filter changing. 100 hrs? Did you get this advice from a professional?
I've found it necessary to change my 2-micron Racor filters about every 100 hours or so to assure sufficient flow to run at near-WOT.
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