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Old 09-14-2016, 07:45 AM   #101
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If that look is good enought for you then by all means stick with it.

I've always found the smoother the wood is you start with and the more you level out/fill the grain with the finish the longer the finish lasts.

So it will be interesting to see how the ZEP/303 combo does.
Doing some reading about the 303 , and people were saying this is similar UV blocker and can get at Walmart.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...k_ql_qh_dp_hza

Honestly, if these can block UV damage, why not coat all bright wood on the outside. It will be far easier to spray and wipe down than do a strip and refinish. I just have no experience with any of these yet.

I do know the SPF for the 303 is 40, which blocks 98% of the UV.

And as far as Meguiar's, a discussion versus their UP product which is more durable on exterior surfaces.
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...Rb0Ob6BbUgj.97

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G147.../dp/B004HCS4P0
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Old 09-14-2016, 08:13 AM   #102
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Honestly, if these can block UV damage, why not coat all bright wood on the outside. It will be far easier to spray and wipe down than do a strip and refinish. I just have no experience with any of these yet.
Spraying 303 or something like it contaminates the finish. Which will make it very likely that you will issues when you go to recoat the wood with the product you are trying to protect with the 303.

Go talk to anybody that spray paints cars or boats for a living. Or someone who does varnish work for a living and see what they have to say about working with a surface that has been contaminated with wax, 303, Armor All, etc.
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Old 09-14-2016, 08:23 AM   #103
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Spraying 303 or something like it contaminates the finish. Which will make it very likely that you will issues when you go to recoat the wood with the product you are trying to protect with the 303.

Go talk to anybody that spray paints cars or boats for a living. Or someone who does varnish work for a living and see what they have to say about working with a surface that has been contaminated with wax, 303, Armor All, etc.
I have actually wondered about that. I assume a good scrubbing with harsh soaps. Definitely though every time I have refinished wood, it has been strip to bare experience on the boat as the finish just can not be saved, so it wont matter to me then..

I bet you that wet sanding with soapy water will remove it. Which on wood refinishing is ok. then little dry sanding.

As to it's durability
http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/m...tml?1186976391
"In the end what did it, was dish soap then wiping it down w/ vinegar/water, and repeating this about 10 times. It finally came off. Then had to buff it out."
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Old 09-14-2016, 09:02 AM   #104
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ok, here are some pics. I hesitated to even bother posting anything since people are so negative.
Don't hesitate to posting pictures, we have gathered here to exchange experience and practice, to openly debate together and to exchange ideas.
The possibility of starting dialogues with different or opposite opinions make very interesting things happen to get the job done.
Pictures also help a lot.

Your transom looks nice, & I like the gold letters.
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Old 09-14-2016, 09:10 AM   #105
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Don't hesitate to posting pictures, we have gathered here to exchange experience and practice, to openly debate together and to exchange ideas. Pictures also help a lot.


If we were all good herd followers, there would be no growth/discovery.
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Old 09-14-2016, 09:16 AM   #106
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I have actually wondered about that. I assume a good scrubbing with harsh soaps. Definitely though every time I have refinished wood, it has been strip to bare experience on the boat as the finish just can not be saved, so it wont matter to me then..

I bet you that wet sanding with soapy water will remove it. Which on wood refinishing is ok. then little dry sanding.

As to it's durability
WakeWorld Discussion Board: What removes 303 aerospace protectant?
"In the end what did it, was dish soap then wiping it down w/ vinegar/water, and repeating this about 10 times. It finally came off. Then had to buff it out."
So your plan is to not add any more coats of ZEP in the future. Just try and maintain it as long as possible with the 303?
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Old 09-14-2016, 09:25 AM   #107
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Don't hesitate to posting pictures, we have gathered here to exchange experience and practice, to openly debate together and to exchange ideas. Pictures also help a lot.

Your transom looks nice, & I like the gold letters.
Hi, thanks. I did not want to sand due to the gold letters.
I picked a font I liked and blew them up gigantic on the computer. Printed them out on paper, cuttout the letters and taped them to the wood. Then I traced them. For the gold paint, believe it or not, is an artist or hobby gold paint in a small plastic bottle bought at walmart and is water based. That gold paint has a bright gold color and is so tough, it is over 10 years old and has never peeled off or cracked.

When I put on the minwax stain, I used a chip brush and painted right over those letters, then buffed it off.
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Old 09-14-2016, 09:41 AM   #108
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If we were all good herd followers, there would be no growth/discovery.
Well said and definitely true.
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Old 09-14-2016, 09:45 AM   #109
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Hi, thanks. I did not want to sand due to the gold letters.
I picked a font I liked and blew them up gigantic on the computer. Printed them out on paper, cuttout the letters and taped them to the wood. Then I traced them. For the gold paint, believe it or not, is an artist or hobby gold paint in a small plastic bottle bought at walmart and is water based. That gold paint has a bright gold color and is so tough, it is over 10 years old and has never peeled off or cracked.

When I put on the minwax stain, I used a chip brush and painted right over those letters, then buffed it off.
Amazing & good job ! Really love these gold letters, so classy.
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Old 09-14-2016, 10:44 AM   #110
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Do you remember the brand name of the paint ?
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Old 09-14-2016, 10:54 AM   #111
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Do you remember the brand name of the paint ?
I think it is on the boat, will post back later today. It is in a squeeze bottle with a flip top lid, about 4 inch tall and an inch wide.
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Old 09-14-2016, 08:02 PM   #112
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The gold letter paint is this one here.
https://www.plaidonline.com/folkart-.../1654/item.htm

And the font I used was Alys Script Bold Regular
Alys Script Bold Regular : Download For Free, View Sample Text, Rating And More On Fontsgeek.Com
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Old 09-14-2016, 08:36 PM   #113
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Old 09-15-2016, 12:04 AM   #114
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If 303 is like the Amazon product, it seems to be a silicone spray, like Armor-all. I believe that is a real issue for recoating. Same reason as some types of silicone sealant are not good on a boat, because you may never be able to repaint where you use them.
If you accidentally get Armor-all on the car windscreen it gets smeary and is hard to remove,I`d be wary using it.
I used a bright yellow full gloss oil paint to pick out letters on my name and hailing port boards, then varnished the whole board (with Cetol), having prepped the boards before doing the yellow. It works well, the oil paint and Cetol get along fine. I know people who apply gold leaf, but paint is ok for my boat.
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Old 09-15-2016, 03:49 AM   #115
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If 303 is like the Amazon product, it seems to be a silicone spray, like Armor-all. I believe that is a real issue for recoating. Same reason as some types of silicone sealant are not good on a boat, because you may never be able to repaint where you use them.
If you accidentally get Armor-all on the car windscreen it gets smeary and is hard to remove,I`d be wary using it.
I used a bright yellow full gloss oil paint to pick out letters on my name and hailing port boards, then varnished the whole board (with Cetol), having prepped the boards before doing the yellow. It works well, the oil paint and Cetol get along fine. I know people who apply gold leaf, but paint is ok for my boat.
It has no silicone, one of the first things I checked for. Can not stand that stuff.
https://www.goldeagle.com/brands/303-faqs

I put on the 303 on the transom. I actually sprayed it on and spread it with my hand, then buffed it with a cotton rag. The water beads up. I can see why dirts do not stick to it. Unless you clean it off, nothing will stick to 303. I like it a lot, made it feel silky smooth.

It took a very small amount of 303 to do the transom and all the interior woodwork that I recently refinished, which adds up to about 2 transoms total in area, dropped the 303 down about 1.5 inches in the bottle's neck area.
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Old 09-15-2016, 04:03 AM   #116
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303® Aerospace Protectant™ is great for use on a variety of surfaces including vinyl, plastics, synthetic and natural rubber, PVC, finished leather, teak, colored gel-coat fiberglass, clear vinyl (Eisenglass) windows, and more! DO NOT use on unfinished leathers (such as suede), fabrics or floorings.
I wonder if when they mean 'teak', do they mean bare sanded smooth teak or teak with a surface finish. I think a hard wood probably will do ok with it. I have seen some woods just suck up liquids too much like pine, and there wont be any surface of 303 left on top.
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Old 09-15-2016, 11:10 PM   #117
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If you are ever looking for a Teak specialist. I do not hesitate to recommend Jeff Howe for Teak Decking, Interiors, Swim platforms, Steps, and Trim.

Here is his advice on Periodic Cleaning of the Teak:

If you feel the need to spruce up the deck beyond your usual brush and soap/water, you may want to use a two part teak cleaner.

DO NOT. Two part cleaners are usually made from caustic chemicals that although clean very well, remove or soften the grain in the wood. This, causes the need for sanding more often and considerably shortening the life of your deck. Here is a great way to use a two part cleaning system that is very gentle on the wood, harmless to your seams, and biodegradable.

Available at the grocery store, is SUDSY AMMONIA, and WHITE VINEGAR. The ratio is roughly 1:1 SUDSY:WATER, for part one. Use a Doodle Bug Scrubber attachment for the Shurhold Pole, and a green pad. This should be available at your local marine store. Use this mixture liberally on a wet deck, and keep wet throughout the process.

Scrub AGAINST the grain whenever possible. No heavy scrubbing is necessary. Once complete, rinse the products thoroughly with fresh water. Clean the Doodle pad very well and use the vinegar direct and alone to “brighten” the deck.

This is only spread over all wood cleaned, and is not used for scrubbing at all. Once all the wood has been coated give a few minutes to soak in. You will see a change in color to a brighter more amber hue. Rinse the Vinegar liberally and the deck is clean.

When it becomes necessary to sand the deck, it is important to use a light grit and ensure it is done evenly. We recommend 100 grit sandpaper for maintenance sanding. It is very important to mask off any areas of paint that may be accidentally bumped by the sander.

The use of a random orbital sander with dustless attachment is preferred over any belt or high-speed sander. Keeping the sander moving across the grain, seams and wood evenly will ensure a level sanding.

Keep in mind that sanding is not even recommended within the first year or so; however, that is owner’s discretion. After the first year, once every 12-18 months will ensure a long life to your deck.

Boat/Yacht Teak Installation, Repair, and Maintenance - Teakworks
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Old 09-15-2016, 11:16 PM   #118
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I wonder if when they mean 'teak', do they mean bare sanded smooth teak or teak with a surface finish. I think a hard wood probably will do ok with it. I have seen some woods just suck up liquids too much like pine, and there wont be any surface of 303 left on top.
Try it on a small area first, check for slipperiness, how the wood responds, etc.
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Old 09-16-2016, 06:11 AM   #119
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Try it on a small area first, check for slipperiness, how the wood responds, etc.
Yes, can try that, just don't want to waste it. Your not supposed to use this on fabric, so wood that soaks it in same idea I think.

I posted a question about bare sanded teak on their site.

From their faqs, says 'teak'
WHAT SURFACES CAN 303 ® AEROSPACE PROTECTANT™ BE USED ON?
303® Aerospace Protectant™ is great for use on a variety of surfaces including vinyl, plastics, synthetic and natural rubber, PVC, finished leather, teak, colored gel-coat fiberglass, clear vinyl (Eisenglass) windows, and more! DO NOT use on unfinished leathers (such as suede), fabrics or floorings.

Gold Eagle by the way are the makers of Stabil for treating gasoline, definitely does work.
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Old 09-16-2016, 06:17 AM   #120
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For cleaning teak, I use Oxalic acid. Buy the powder at Ace or True Value, then mix with water. You can heat the water and it makes it more active. It will brighten a lot of woods. I brush it on, scrub a little, let it dry, add more if needed, then rinse it off after it has dried and the teak looks good.

I tried vinegar, does not work.

I should probably buy this, can get 5lbs for good price.
https://www.amazon.com/OXALIC-99-6-C...C911Q96SC85RFE
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