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Old 09-11-2016, 11:05 AM   #81
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That's another one on my short list. Penofin's Premium Red Label in 'transparent sable' looks really nice as well, for a somewhat darker look;

Ultra Premium Red Label Wood Stain Finish | Penofin

Curious though...how fast do accidentally dripped penetrating oils soak into gel coat? Do they wipe away with a wet rag without a leaving a mark if you get at them right away?
Update...further reading has Penofin Red Label as a one coat system which takes it off the list.

Penofin recommends their Marine or Premium Blue products for docks and boats;

Docks & Boats Wood Stains | Penofin
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Old 09-11-2016, 11:13 AM   #82
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Not a fan of Teak maintenance to tell the truth. I took my platform back to bare as it's in the water quite a bit and maintenance would be endless. I'll gradually replace my few bits and pieces of teak trim with some polymer. These guys will cut/contour to your spec.

https://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-re...-or-size-today
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Old 09-11-2016, 07:55 PM   #83
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Help me on the paint and teak. I've been looking at the possibility of painting my window frames for appearance sake on my Albin. Saw a few that were painted, and it updates the boat a little appearance-wise. Also read here on TF that you should never paint teak because of the inherent oil in the wood, so Capt. Bill - you bring an interesting question to me when you say "properly painted teak".

If there is a way to do this maximizing adhesion of paint that doesn't require stripping, Cetol, then paint over Cetol, help me out here. The Admiral is interested in white window frames. Paint type? Manufacturer? Process of doing this without having the paint flake or peel? Anyone with pictures that did this?
I've never painted over Cetol. Not saying you can't. Just never done it myself.

But I have painted over a varnished finish that was in good condition without a lifting issue.

In fact very, very rarely have I ever seen a major lifting issue with a varnished teak finish that was prepped and applied properly.

If I was going to paint your window frames I'd strip them down and dothe job right. It's to much work to risk a paint failure due to poor prep.

You could either use clear West System as a base or epoxy primer as your base. Just sand the wood smooth and wipe it down well with acetone or alcohol while changing your rags often before applying your base/primer.

When I used to do window frames that's how I'd do it. Then I'd apply a 2 part poly as a top coat. That combination would last for several years before needing a fresh coat of paint.

Here's a tip if you do paint your frames. Don't mask off the the glass. Just trim and scrape the primer off after you prime the frames and then do the same after you paint them.

Goes real fast, especially if you seal or wax the windows before you start the job. So it saves you a lot of time and money you'd spend on tape, taping and pulling tape. You also don't run the risk of the tape pulling off any of the finish from the frame when you go to remove the tape. Plus the paint edge is sealed better to the glass in my experience.

I did a lot of GB window frames, as well as other brands of boats, using those methods with out any lifting issues.
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Old 09-11-2016, 08:30 PM   #84
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And I bought some Aerospace 303 UV protectant spray 32 oz off Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/303-30313-CSR...pace+303&psc=1

I plan to put that on top of the Acrylic floor polish, doing a test on using the ZEP outside on teak and mahogany wood.
You can do what you want but I think you're about to make a mess of your exterior teak.
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Old 09-11-2016, 09:47 PM   #85
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Capt Bill - thank you. We've stripped the rest of the teak down to bare wood, I guess a few window frames won't be a big deal.
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Old 09-12-2016, 04:22 AM   #86
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Incorrect, properly painted teak is far less maintenance than varnished or oiled teak.
I concur, and can verify that, because the PO had done that to most of the external teak, and the boat is 42 years old.
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Old 09-12-2016, 05:08 AM   #87
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Pierre, 42 years is just incredible. I saw with lot of attention all the pics of Lotus you sent me through email, she looks like new. You must show here the pic of bottom hull painted, propellers that shine like gold.
Let's go sailing !
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Old 09-12-2016, 05:28 AM   #88
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I have started painting some of my trim with Pettit EZ-Poxy. Not one of my favorite jobs but it really looks nice and updates the boat. I have been looking at pics. I am going to keep the teak oiled on the bridge.
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Old 09-12-2016, 07:07 AM   #89
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You can do what you want but I think you're about to make a mess of your exterior teak.
HaHa, no mess. I put the Minwax stain on this weekend and looks good.
I have a mahogany transom and teak swim platform. I use 'old english chestnut' diluted with some gasoline.

Plan to topcoat with the ZEP, then spray on the UV blocker.
Doing this on interior wood work makes a very fine finish, for that I have been using the Minwax 'gunstock' color, which has more reddish tones than the chestnut color.

Minwax is a linseed oil stain with pigment. From my experience the ZEP does well on top of wood especially if it is stained. Done a lot of interior wood work and it is better and easier to use the an oil based polyurethane or varnish. I an mid 50's and have painted lots of wood with stains and finished for decades, so I am not inexperienced.

ZEP by itself outside is not going to last more than a year, but I was wondering if the Aerospace 303 would keep the sun from destroying the finish. Plan to wipe on the 303 every month in summer and less often in winter. ZEP inside lasts for many years with no problem, looks good, puts a shine on anything. ZEP is an acrylic clearcoat.

I have been using the high traffic, it also gives good gloss. On wood I use a chip paint brush, not a micro fiber towel. Wood is not as flat as a gel coat, so it needs a thicker coat.
High traffic has more solids than wetlook and is according to ZEP more durable finish, well meant for high traffic use on floors, suits me.


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Old 09-13-2016, 12:41 AM   #90
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HaHa, no mess. I put the Minwax stain on this weekend and looks good.
I have a mahogany transom and teak swim platform. I use 'old english chestnut' diluted with some gasoline.

Plan to topcoat with the ZEP, then spray on the UV blocker.
Doing this on interior wood work makes a very fine finish, for that I have been using the Minwax 'gunstock' color, which has more reddish tones than the chestnut color.

Minwax is a linseed oil stain with pigment. From my experience the ZEP does well on top of wood especially if it is stained. Done a lot of interior wood work and it is better and easier to use the an oil based polyurethane or varnish. I an mid 50's and have painted lots of wood with stains and finished for decades, so I am not inexperienced.

ZEP by itself outside is not going to last more than a year, but I was wondering if the Aerospace 303 would keep the sun from destroying the finish. Plan to wipe on the 303 every month in summer and less often in winter. ZEP inside lasts for many years with no problem, looks good, puts a shine on anything. ZEP is an acrylic clearcoat.

I have been using the high traffic, it also gives good gloss. On wood I use a chip paint brush, not a micro fiber towel. Wood is not as flat as a gel coat, so it needs a thicker coat.
High traffic has more solids than wetlook and is according to ZEP more durable finish, well meant for high traffic use on floors, suits me.


Oh dear God!

You mean boat owners aren't the only ones falling for the "Make your boat/RV look new with floor wax" scam!

Just wait till it goes yellow, starts flaking and you have to remove it and then try to get a real wood finish to stick to the wood after contaminating the wood with acrylic floor wax and 303.

But then again who knows, maybe you are about to discover the miracle teak finish after all.
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Old 09-13-2016, 05:50 AM   #91
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This is related to the primary reason we never had our 2005 motorhome "buffed out". It has full body paint and is clearcoated. We wash it, and the finish still looks beautiful. Many of our friends who started having their motorhomes buffed and waxed each year, now HAVE to have it done, as the clearcoat has been damaged to the point where it quickly becomes dull/faded.
Some of those folks go the ZEP route, attempting to get away from the annual or semi-annual waxing exercise. My thoughts go towards the "If it's too good to be true, it probably isn't." line of thought...BUT...

As Capt Bill said above, who knows? Maybe this is the TANG of teak treatment
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Old 09-13-2016, 06:19 AM   #92
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Pierre, 42 years is just incredible. I saw with lot of attention all the pics of Lotus you sent me through email, she looks like new. You must show here the pic of bottom hull painted, propellers that shine like gold.
Let's go sailing !
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Madame, your wish is my command. Of course you are too kind re your praise. If you saw Lotus really close up you would see she is definitely not like new, but she is nice enough for us. And her bottom did scrub up rather nicely and her gold prop does her credit. That Propspeed is really effective. So, now, bring on the Spring..!
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Old 09-13-2016, 07:08 AM   #93
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Oh dear God!

You mean boat owners aren't the only ones falling for the "Make your boat/RV look new with floor wax" scam!

Just wait till it goes yellow, starts flaking and you have to remove it and then try to get a real wood finish to stick to the wood after contaminating the wood with acrylic floor wax and 303.

But then again who knows, maybe you are about to discover the miracle teak finish after all.
The zep has been no problem inside on any wood. You should try it yourself, dries quick, makes a waterproof durable shine. It goes on slightly clear milky blue, then dries totally clear. I brush it on. It puts a durable waterproof shine on anything including plastics.

Zep is cleaned off by ammonia. I have noticed ZEP tends to melt into the minwax color staining, it slowly picks up color in the jar I am painting from. And it seems to melt into prior layers, so it does not peel layer to layer, which is as designed as it is intended for a durable floor finish, so it adhere pretty good.


Outside, yes ZEP fails as do all clear coats eventually fail, which is why I am thinking it is the UV light causing the failure. Aerospace 303 has a SPF of 40. So then that is the plan to coat every month or so the 303.
I have coated many finishes various finishes on the transom wood and they all eventually fail and need to be redone.

It could also be that ZEP surfaces outdoors would need to be renewed by adding another coat every so often, maybe when the surface dulls due to UV attack, but recoat prior to a complete failure. I am just relating that on some RV forum posts said that they would add more on when it got a duller look, not that they were stripping it off. And some said harsh strong soaps were stripping the gloss, while normal dish soaps were not. So failed finishes may not be a big disaster, I don't have enough experience to know yet.

And the 303 is advertised as matte finish, but forum posters say the 303 mirrors the surface it goes on, so can also show a semigloss look. I will find out soon, as I plan to do all this week.

Edit, I just sprayed some 303 on gloss polyurethane stair steps in the house, and they are still glossy, so it does not make a gloss surface to a matte look. Do a light coat then burnish into the surface by rubbing, some people let thicker coats dry on and they say will become a gloss.
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Old 09-13-2016, 04:09 PM   #94
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Madame, your wish is my command. Of course you are too kind re your praise. If you saw Lotus really close up you would see she is definitely not like new, but she is nice enough for us. And her bottom did scrub up rather nicely and her gold prop does her credit. That Propspeed is really effective. So, now, bring on the Spring..!
Cher Monsieur, you are a real ladies' man, it's so pleasant.
Very nice pictures of Lotus and her classy hull polished and waxed. It's good to see a well maintained and very clean boat, ready to go.
Very good job, Pierre.
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Old 09-13-2016, 04:58 PM   #95
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Outside, yes ZEP fails as do all clear coats eventually fail, which is why I am thinking it is the UV light causing the failure.

It could also be that ZEP surfaces outdoors would need to be renewed by adding another coat every so often, maybe when the surface dulls due to UV attack, but recoat prior to a complete failure..
You might want to read this thread before you proceed...I had failing Polyglow (which is just an expensive re-bottled acrylic floor wax) on my boat when I bought it and it was not very satisfactory, and a royal pain to remove.

This thread may help you decide...

I am impressed with this product
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Old 09-13-2016, 06:10 PM   #96
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The zep has been no problem inside on any wood. You should try it yourself, dries quick, makes a waterproof durable shine. It goes on slightly clear milky blue, then dries totally clear. I brush it on. It puts a durable waterproof shine on anything including plastics.

Zep is cleaned off by ammonia. I have noticed ZEP tends to melt into the minwax color staining, it slowly picks up color in the jar I am painting from. And it seems to melt into prior layers, so it does not peel layer to layer, which is as designed as it is intended for a durable floor finish, so it adhere pretty good.


Outside, yes ZEP fails as do all clear coats eventually fail, which is why I am thinking it is the UV light causing the failure. Aerospace 303 has a SPF of 40. So then that is the plan to coat every month or so the 303.
I have coated many finishes various finishes on the transom wood and they all eventually fail and need to be redone.

It could also be that ZEP surfaces outdoors would need to be renewed by adding another coat every so often, maybe when the surface dulls due to UV attack, but recoat prior to a complete failure. I am just relating that on some RV forum posts said that they would add more on when it got a duller look, not that they were stripping it off. And some said harsh strong soaps were stripping the gloss, while normal dish soaps were not. So failed finishes may not be a big disaster, I don't have enough experience to know yet.

And the 303 is advertised as matte finish, but forum posters say the 303 mirrors the surface it goes on, so can also show a semigloss look. I will find out soon, as I plan to do all this week.

Edit, I just sprayed some 303 on gloss polyurethane stair steps in the house, and they are still glossy, so it does not make a gloss surface to a matte look. Do a light coat then burnish into the surface by rubbing, some people let thicker coats dry on and they say will become a gloss.

I'm sorry, there is no way I'm putting a floor sealant product on bare wood that is designed to seal/overcoat interior vinyl flooring.

Especially on exterior teak.

And then try to maintain that finish with 303. It might work on gelcoat but there is no way I'm going to go to all the trouble of prepping exterior teak for a new finish and then put vinyl floor sealer on it.

As I said, who knows? You may be on to something, or on something as the case may be, but I'll let your wood be the test subject.

Please do report back in a year.
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Old 09-13-2016, 08:13 PM   #97
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ok, here are some pics. I hesitated to even bother posting anything since people are so negative. I am not done yet with it. Need to stain more on the swim platform.
There are 2 coats of floor polish and it has a good shine. My prep work was scrape off the old failed finish of polyurethane.
Clean up wood with oxalic acid and scraping wood with razor blade. I did no sanding. I coated right over the gold letters.
It looks very good to me.
And I do not think even a year of results will be good enough.

With just the stain


Then with the floor polish






I got no problem spraying on some 303 every month or so. As I said before, every finish I have tried eventually fails completey.
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Old 09-13-2016, 10:34 PM   #98
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After 4 coats of Deks Olje #1 oil my swimstep/duckboard is looking good, much better than left grey.
sdowney 717, it`s best to do the sides of each piece of timber making up the grating too, not so easy, but easy to spill product into the water, especially when using a thin oil. Your transom finish looks good.
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Old 09-14-2016, 06:45 AM   #99
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After 4 coats of Deks Olje #1 oil my swimstep/duckboard is looking good, much better than left grey.
sdowney 717, it`s best to do the sides of each piece of timber making up the grating too, not so easy, but easy to spill product into the water, especially when using a thin oil. Your transom finish looks good.
Thanks, it looks good to me too.
Yes, plan to stain and seal that too, not done yet.
First I want to clean off some of that gray wood a little. Probably use oxalic acid and a toothbrush.

I know the ZEP will eventually fail especially if not using a UV blocker. But so too will all finishes fail even marine varnishes. It is certainly going to be easy to spray on the uv blocker Aerospace 303. Last time I used a marine varnish, it started to look bad at 15 months.

I am kinda wondering about using the 303 on the swim platform, it might make it slippery. But it also will eventually wash off, so I will probably coat it too as a test. I also suppose 303 could be washed off with some strong soap and scrubbing.

Also can't imagine putting ZEP all over the boat like some people did, no, to me it is for small areas I can manage like the transom. It has worked well on interior wood and a lot easier and cheaper than polyurethane or varnish. And I am using the 'high traffic polish' at $16 per gallon, not the wet look at $24 per gallon. On the ZEP forum the rep said high traffic is more durable than wet look.

I originally was not going to do the swim platform, but I spilled stain on it and decided why not.
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Old 09-14-2016, 07:16 AM   #100
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ok, here are some pics.
If that look is good enought for you then by all means stick with it.

I've always found the smoother the wood is you start with and the more you level out/fill the grain with the finish the longer the finish lasts.

So it will be interesting to see how the ZEP/303 combo does.
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