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Old 09-09-2016, 11:44 AM   #41
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We much preferred oil on our MT Whistful for the 8-9yrs we had her. As was stated above, walking around now and then with a can of oil and a rag and doing a wipe down was a nice welcome chore on a Sunday morning

We kept our boat in Elliot, Me, so we'd do a "final" coat late fall, but by springtime, we'd need to get out the sandpaper. Down here in Fl, you'd likely not have to do that.
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Old 09-09-2016, 11:54 AM   #42
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Yup, Whitman's been the go-to source for boat finishes for decades.

There is some stunningly good looking Teak in these posts!
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Old 09-09-2016, 12:06 PM   #43
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Your decks look great. I've never heard of a teak pore filler. Can you provide a brand name?
Thanks
Thanks Doug. I will ask my crew man and let you know.

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Old 09-09-2016, 12:16 PM   #44
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I decided on Danish oil and it is coming out great, BUT.......Some of the teak ie: door frames, is too far gone to sand to my liking. I will be painting that with Pettit EZ-Poxy topside paint. This is not for forever. Just temporary till next year when I can have the teak replaced.
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Old 09-09-2016, 12:43 PM   #45
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Donna,
Danish oil is a furniture finish but that's OK .. I paint parts of my boat w house paint like water base.
What's in the Danish Oil? Linseed, Tung oil or what? I've done lots of oiling my cap rail ect and mixed my own. If your Danish is too this or that you may be able to mix a bit of oil, turpentine or Japan Dryer ?? Oil will eventially turn black but don't worry it won't if you oil it every month and a half or two. Depending on the oil content of what you're using or/and the weather where you are.
I tried Daly's Teak Oil but it had build so I quit. Wanted to avoid the scraping.
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Old 09-09-2016, 01:07 PM   #46
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Often times in the subtropical sun of Florida, the oil on teak will oxidize below the surface leaving black spots. It looks great for a few months but then starts to blacken.
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Old 09-09-2016, 04:54 PM   #47
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I decided on Danish oil and it is coming out great, BUT.......Some of the teak ie: door frames, is too far gone to sand to my liking. I will be painting that with Pettit EZ-Poxy topside paint. This is not for forever. Just temporary till next year when I can have the teak replaced.
Should you wish to retain the option of keeping the original wood, I recall many past posts that opined that you should first varnish or otherwise seal any raw wood areas you wish to paint over, otherwise you will never get the paint pigment out of the wood grain should you later wish to bring it back to it's natural state.
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Old 09-09-2016, 05:56 PM   #48
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Greetings,
Mr. dw. Post #21! Good grief...
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Old 09-09-2016, 06:17 PM   #49
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Well maintained exterior woodwork is beautiful. Nevertheless, I elected to avoid it. Didn't want the expense/effort to acquire and maintain it. I'm satisfied with a work-boat appearance.

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Old 09-09-2016, 07:15 PM   #50
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Greetings,
Mr. dw. Post #21! Good grief...


Reminder to self: Read all previous posts beforehand.
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Old 09-09-2016, 08:05 PM   #51
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Often times in the subtropical sun of Florida, the oil on teak will oxidize below the surface leaving black spots. It looks great for a few months but then starts to blacken.
Oil is only good for one to two months. One must do it often .. but it's easy to apply. There's no UV protection but I know nothing about the Florida sun. But there's not much of anything to protect. Nothing ever turns to a solid so it's goodby to sanding and scraping. But some products like Dayl's Teak Oil do have build .. solids to sand and scrape.
There's significant disadvantages to oil as there is to all the other wood finishes. I used oil in Alaska and it worked fairly well. Would have been better if I had been a bit more careful applying it. But in Florida I don't think I'd even try it. It was a bit sticky in SE Alaska (nothing that would stick to clothes ect) but I'll bet it would be just plain oily in Florida.
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Old 09-09-2016, 08:23 PM   #52
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I`m applying Deks Olje #1 to my grating type teak swimstep. It`s the "front porch" to the boat, and it looked dull and grey. I can`t use the prescribed "apply until it won`t take no more" method, I`d be standing on wet oil adding more oil "wet on wet", so I`m applying a generous brushed coat every day or so and letting it sink in. Better than nothing, and after 3 applications it is starting to look "oiled". Won`t be using #2 gloss in this situation.
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Old 09-09-2016, 08:44 PM   #53
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I do the same wit Cetol, clear Bruce. Tends to look quite good. Use the same on the rails. Might not look as good as lovely varnished teak, but in our climate keeping brightwork really bright is just too hard, especially when the rest of the boat is not quite showroom, so it would be a bit like the old saying 'gilding the lilly'.
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Old 09-09-2016, 09:13 PM   #54
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You can let it go gray or work at and give it the justice it deserves . This is only 6 coats of Epifanes . 13 coats would be better . I've heard that magic happens after 13 coats .
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Old 09-09-2016, 09:32 PM   #55
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BruceK,
That's what I did w my home mixed oil. Used mostly 75% turpentine at first and 25% turp later on w the Linseed oil. As much as it would take at first but never wet on wet. I'd let it "dry" or soak in mostly before adding more and would wipe it w a rag later when it wouldn't soak in. After 5 or 6 coats 1 coated every 5 to 7 weeks seemed to keep a good mostly dry oil finish. But these comercial "Teak Oils" are a little more like paint w more oil and a little resin. I used raw oil but boiled oil "dries" more/better. One can add a bit of Japan Drier also.
Bruce do you know what Decks Olje is? I mean what's in it? I've seen the product.
Quite a few years ago there was a thread about a comercial product that was basically 100% Tung oil. Wonder if anyone's used it?

PeterB,
Just what is "your climate"?
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Old 09-09-2016, 09:39 PM   #56
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I do the same wit Cetol, clear Bruce. Tends to look quite good. Use the same on the rails. Might not look as good as lovely varnished teak, but in our climate keeping brightwork really bright is just too hard, especially when the rest of the boat is not quite showroom, so it would be a bit like the old saying 'gilding the lilly'.
I use Cetol TGL Gloss for any gloss work,from Bunnings, about half the Whitworths chandlery price, I like it a lot.
But not on the swimstep, smooth shiny glossy = slippery. Is there a no gloss non slippery Cetol I could use there?
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Old 09-10-2016, 04:32 AM   #57
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Don't know if anyone has used Penofin's product:
Marine Oil Finish | Penofin

I built some decks on my house back in Mass using clear mahogany, and used their product on my decks, and it was fantastic.

I've never used the marine product, but based on my previous experience with their products, I'd give it a shot, especially given it's UV protection.

Maybe someone here has used it, and will chime in...
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Old 09-10-2016, 05:53 AM   #58
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Don't know if anyone has used Penofin's product:
Marine Oil Finish | Penofin

I built some decks on my house back in Mass using clear mahogany, and used their product on my decks, and it was fantastic.

I've never used the marine product, but based on my previous experience with their products, I'd give it a shot, especially given it's UV protection.

Maybe someone here has used it, and will chime in...
That's another one on my short list. Penofin's Premium Red Label in 'transparent sable' looks really nice as well, for a somewhat darker look;

Ultra Premium Red Label Wood Stain Finish | Penofin

Curious though...how fast do accidentally dripped penetrating oils soak into gel coat? Do they wipe away with a wet rag without a leaving a mark if you get at them right away?
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Old 09-10-2016, 07:17 AM   #59
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Quote:
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I use Cetol TGL Gloss for any gloss work,from Bunnings, about half the Whitworths chandlery price, I like it a lot.
But not on the swimstep, smooth shiny glossy = slippery. Is there a no gloss non slippery Cetol I could use there?
Yes, the Cetol Marine Clear (or teak tinted) are both satin finish, Bruce, and fine for the duckboard/swim-step/boarding platform - whatever you want to call it. It appears each country seems to have its own name for it.
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Old 09-10-2016, 07:59 AM   #60
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Greetings,
Mr. PB. Granted, Cetol does make a satin finish product BUT I think it would still be too slippery for a swim step. Mr. BK has the correct idea IMO-leave it natural which, is the best non skid surface.
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