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Old 03-12-2019, 12:05 PM   #1
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Butyl Tape and Sikaflex

I am in the middle of rebedding a leaking portlight. It is a Bomar S616MBSS. The hole in the hull was cut pretty poorly and the inside of the hull is lined with 3/8" wood that is now rotted. So, of course, I need to replace the wood and reseal it. The poorly cut hole leaves varying gaps of up to 5mm around the edge of the frame itself. If I fabricate new wood for inside the hull that fits around the frame more closely, there will then be a gap that is the thickness of the hull hat needs filling most of the way around the portlight frame.



I was considering filling the gaps with butyl tape then using Sikaflex to seal around the frame on the outside of the hull. Will the Sikaflex seal to the butyl tape? Should I use only butyl tape to seal the entire portlight or use only Sikaflex all through these gaps. I have never worked with butyl tabe before and am a little fearful of using it as the only sealant for this application.



I will try and post some pics here later. Maybe it will help you understand the problem.



As always, any help y'all can be would be great!
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Old 03-12-2019, 12:41 PM   #2
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Butyl tape isnt far from silly putty or modeling clay in moldability and gap filling....usually perfect for window frame bedding, but a wrong sized hole is the issue, not what type bedding/sealant.



Cant quite picture your project but you shouldnt need both. Either the tape will fill a major gap (never the best solution) or it is small enough to fill with any decent caulk.
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Old 03-12-2019, 02:19 PM   #3
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I would go with butyl tape for everything. Easier and less messy. If the gap is bigger just use more butyl. When you insert the hatch the butyl will squeeze into the gaps and the extra you can trim off.
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Old 03-12-2019, 02:28 PM   #4
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I did some templates last night. In this photo, the wood represents the fiberglass hull and the cardboard it the expectation of the interior replacement of rotted wood. The gap is just about accurate to what I need to fill. Let me be clear that the jagged edge of the wood (hull) is NOT sloppy jigsaw work. It is pretty much like that.

**Don't be confused by the placement of the trim ring. The flange should goto the outside, but for the sake of showing the gap, I have it flipped around in a couple of pictures with the flange on the inside.

This picture is of the INNER frame.

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Old 03-12-2019, 02:29 PM   #5
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Here is another.


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Old 03-12-2019, 02:29 PM   #6
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And the hole.



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Old 03-12-2019, 02:30 PM   #7
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Other end.

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Old 03-12-2019, 05:10 PM   #8
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Butyl Tape and Sikaflex

Another question about butyl tape: The outer frame is only held in with tabs. Will that pull back enough on it for butyl tape to hold? Isnt butyl tape just a sealant and not an adhesive?

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Old 03-12-2019, 06:09 PM   #9
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Butyl tape is not an adhesive. However if the mounting surface is cleaned and prepared properly it will adhere tenaciously yet not glue.

I have a much wider hole than my portlights, although different material/style,
so I used some of the Foam rods from construction where tiltup concrete walls need to have the gap filled. They use the rods to fill most of the gap and then apply a sealant. They are available in several different diameters and can be squeezed into place tightly which is good.

I did not use the sealant but a large rope of butyl tape that filled the remaining gap. I also butyled the trip ring all around with narrow pieces cut from the tape.

Then used some clamps and pressure pads to squeeze the whole works together a bit at a time working my way around the perimeter.

As I snugged the clamps I could monitor the squeeze out all around.

I also ensured that any wood was epoxy waterproofed fairly heavily before all this was done.

5 or so years later I needed to remove that same portlight and that tape argued with me. It was still adhering strongly but NOT GLUED.
To boot That butyl tape was still stretching/elastic. Once apart a chisel and scraper removed the remains.

I will never use Sika or any similar product in an application like this because it is a glue and I almost destroyed another portlight trying to get release.
I do use Sika but not for anything similar any longer.

I'm well aware of heat guns and such but the Sika I guess was told differently.
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Old 03-12-2019, 06:25 PM   #10
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I replaced 11 portholes on my boat last year. I only used butyl tape. I had to route the holes about 5/16” larger than the porthole all around. Then I clamped the port into the hole centered. Forced butyl in all around and all the way through the hull to completely fill the gap. Then put on the trim rings on the outside with butyl and used clamps to squeeze the trim ring into the hull while tightening the screws. The manufacturer said absolutely do not use any caulk instead of the butyl.
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Old 03-12-2019, 07:11 PM   #11
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Butyl Tape and Sikaflex

After giving it some thought, I think I’m going to do butyl tape first, then test it and see where it goes. That way, if I need to redo it, the removal isn’t going to be a huge messy task. I do worry that tabs are all that hold it. However, The Bomar port light that I have installs differently than either of the examples above. The external trim ring will seal to the hull first and then the inner frame will be pushed in from the inside. So it looks like I’m going to have to put butyl tape on the external frame first. Order of operation seems key here.
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Old 03-12-2019, 08:42 PM   #12
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I would still use butyl even if you have to install the trim ring first. Butyl will work with any movement of the trim ring or porthole much more than any caulk. Keep in mind that butyl takes a long time to compress so you have to put it in and then clamp the trim ring and let it set and over time keep tightening the clamps and let the butyl gradually squeeze out.
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Old 03-12-2019, 09:07 PM   #13
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Quote:
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I would still use butyl even if you have to install the trim ring first. Butyl will work with any movement of the trim ring or porthole much more than any caulk. Keep in mind that butyl takes a long time to compress so you have to put it in and then clamp the trim ring and let it set and over time keep tightening the clamps and let the butyl gradually squeeze out.


How long are we talking here?
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Old 03-12-2019, 09:30 PM   #14
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It depends on temperature. The higher ambient temperature the faster the butyl will squeeze out. Generally overnight will do but if it is cool maybe longer.
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Old 03-13-2019, 07:26 AM   #15
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Quote:
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It depends on temperature. The higher ambient temperature the faster the butyl will squeeze out. Generally overnight will do but if it is cool maybe longer.
It is much much better to install butyl tape while it is cold it is thinner and less sticky. It will than when it will become warmer spread/expand and seal even better. I create L shape line and lay it all around window opening ( make sure the surface is cleaned prior to install butyl tape ) than reinstall window or port lite. suggestion use wide tape, all the overage then cut with the blade or exacto knife. Most importantly clean both surfaces as best as it would be when they were new.
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Old 03-13-2019, 07:30 AM   #16
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One more thing IMHO you should coat your plywood with epoxy. Both surface and most importantly the cut edge.
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Old 03-13-2019, 07:42 AM   #17
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One more thing IMHO you should coat your plywood with epoxy. Both surface and most importantly the cut edge.

That is absolutely in the plan.
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Old 03-13-2019, 07:44 AM   #18
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Thanks for the advice and tips everyone. As insurance, I also posted over at CMS/Mainesail's forum to get his take on it. Hopefully he will reply before this weekend, however, I do have more confidence now to use butyl tape for this project.
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Old 03-13-2019, 08:10 AM   #19
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Anyone suggest using Compass Marines butyl over others? Everyone seems to prefer that formulation.
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Old 03-13-2019, 08:11 AM   #20
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I may have answered my own question now deciphering “CMS” ;-)
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