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Old 06-20-2014, 10:15 AM   #1
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Bronze Thru hulls and real seacocks

I plan on getting a bottom job done this winter and I want to replace all thru hulls with bronze and bronze seacocks.I would like to have these all before starting the job . I know they can be pricey so I want to start collecting them this summer and kinda spread the cost out over the next few month's . I'm hoping the yard will let me purchase my own and and just charge me for install . What brand do most of you use and pictures always help . Thanks in advance for any suggestions .
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Old 06-20-2014, 11:01 AM   #2
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This is what I used a few years ago. Size accordingly, this is just an example.
Groco Full-Flow Ball-Type Seacock

And this
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?...4278&id=211517
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Old 06-20-2014, 11:33 AM   #3
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The Groco Seacocks that Jleo has recommended are well made and a good value.
If I were installing new seacocks today, that's what I would use.

Another option is to use a Groco Flanged Adapter with a Groco Ball Valve. This essentially allows you to make a seacock with a replaceable valve.

I know a better place to buy them than Defender, but forum rules prevent me from telling you.
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Old 06-20-2014, 11:43 AM   #4
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Greetings,
Mr. PM. I'm partial to tapered cone seacocks but an internet search only turned up one source. Maybe nobody makes them any more. Blakes Seacocks
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Old 06-20-2014, 11:45 AM   #5
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Just saw this thread. If you need a 1" seacock LarryM is selling one.

Grocco BV-1000 1" Full Flow Ball Valve

If you're on a really tight budget, the Groco FBV series is pretty good and a lot cheaper. Not quite as massive as the BV series but I've never heard of one breaking.
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Old 06-20-2014, 11:56 AM   #6
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RTF, Spartan still makes them but they are pretty pricey.
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Old 06-20-2014, 12:02 PM   #7
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Quote:
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The Groco Seacocks that Jleo has recommended are well made and a good value.
If I were installing new seacocks today, that's what I would use.

Another option is to use a Groco Flanged Adapter with a Groco Ball Valve. This essentially allows you to make a seacock with a replaceable valve.

I know a better place to buy them than Defender, but forum rules prevent me from telling you.
This is what I did.

With the newer model seacocks...if there's a problem...it's usually with the ball valve. With this option, I wouldn't have to go through the trouble or expense of a complete seacock replacement..

The price is a bit more but not too bad.
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Old 06-20-2014, 12:19 PM   #8
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Have you considered the glass reinforced sea cocks and thru hulls by Forespar?

Less expensive, strong, U. L. approved and A.B.Y.C. accepted and no corrosion or electrolysis issues.

Just a thought.
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:01 PM   #9
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Have you considered the glass reinforced sea cocks and thru hulls by Forespar?

Less expensive, strong, U. L. approved and A.B.Y.C. accepted and no corrosion or electrolysis issues.

Just a thought.
From the ABYC Standards manual ....

ABYC and its committees do not "approve", "certify" or "endorse" any item, construction or propietary device.

Forespar's own website says they do not have UL approval and the UL logo does not appear on it's products.

Forsepar claims to meet or exceed ABYC and UL requirements but are not so certified.
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:16 PM   #10
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From the ABYC Standards manual ....

ABYC and its committees do not "approve", "certify" or "endorse" any item, construction or propietary device.
And they "are not intended to preclude attainment of desired results by other means."

Semantics aside, I would argue that they do tacitly by word-smithing their standards or using criteria of other standards to allow or disallow certain manufacturer's products.
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:20 PM   #11
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I would argue that they do tacitly by wordsmithing
Not at all, they are quite specific in all 52 standards that they publish that they approve no specific product.

I'd suggest that it is Forespar that is wordsmithing by implying they are approved.

I also doubt that the smaller Marelon straight valves (1/2" & 3/4")would withstand the 500lb. static load test required by ABYC H-27.
I test seacocks by applying foot pressure and don't think I can manage 500lbs.
I don't do it with the smaller Marelon units because they bend so much it scares me.
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:21 PM   #12
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Have you considered the glass reinforced sea cocks and thru hulls by Forespar?

Less expensive, strong, U. L. approved and A.B.Y.C. accepted and no corrosion or electrolysis issues.

Just a thought.
Like in the movie the graduate--plastics young man- its the present and the future.
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:28 PM   #13
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UL is a dinosaur.

Compliance engineers are fed up with UL. The other NRTLs, such as ETL, CSA and TUV are stealing their lunch money. Unfortunately it will take a generation to undo the UL association at a consumer level.

That is my issue with ABYC.
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:29 PM   #14
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Not at all, they are quite specific in all 52 standards that they publish that they approve no specific product.

I'd suggest that it is Forespar that is wordsmithing by implying they are approved.

I also doubt that the smaller Marelon straight valves (1/2" & 3/4")would withstand the 500lb. static load test required by ABYC H-27.
I test seacocks by applying foot pressure and don't think I can manage 500lbs.
I don't do it with the smaller Marelon units because they bend so much it scares me.
So how many pounds of force will a metal unit sustain after corrosion or electrolysis has its way? A few years ago an acquaintance went to close his metal seacock which he said looked fine and it just snapped in half.
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:31 PM   #15
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UL is a dinosaur.
If that is what you think, why did you tout Forespar as having UL approval and ABYC acceptance (which they don't) ?
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:32 PM   #16
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Not at all, they are quite specific in all 52 standards that they publish that they approve no specific product.

I'd suggest that it is Forespar that is wordsmithing by implying they are approved.

I also doubt that the smaller Marelon straight valves (1/2" & 3/4")would withstand the 500lb. static load test required by ABYC H-27.
I test seacocks by applying foot pressure and don't think I can manage 500lbs.
I don't do it with the smaller Marelon units because they bend so much it scares me.
the actual seacock?...or just the tail-piece barb?...

The little 1/2 incher I put in one of our aluminum boats I'm pretty sure could have easily handles 500lbs...bt certainly not the tail-piece barb.
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:33 PM   #17
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So how many pounds of force will a metal unit sustain after corrosion or electrolysis has its way? A few years ago an acquaintance went to close his metal seacock which he said looked fine and it just snapped in half.
That is the issue with a construction standard when applied to in service equipment and repair.
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:34 PM   #18
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If that is what you think, why did you tout Forespar as having UL approval and ABYC acceptance (which they don't) ?
I didn't. Could care less if they do.
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:34 PM   #19
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Hopcar-i know the source to which you refer, I believe it is in S Fla, has a dock behind the store, serves free Cuban coffee and is a TF sponsor!
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:36 PM   #20
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So how many pounds of force will a metal unit sustain after corrosion or electrolysis has its way? A few years ago an acquaintance went to close his metal seacock which he said looked fine and it just snapped in half.
Don't know what you mean by "metal". If it was one of those cheap brass things used on European boats or perhaps Chinese "bronze" ... maybe so. 50 year old proper bronze seacocks are still out there operating daily with no more than a little surface patina.

PS. "electrolysis" is a chemical change that occurs in an electrolyte when current is passed through it and has nothing to do with corrosion. I suppose you are referring to an electrolytic reaction which could be corrosion due to stray or galvanic current.
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