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Old 06-20-2014, 01:39 PM   #21
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Quote:
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I didn't. Could care less if they do.
Sorry, you are right, it was Capt.Bill that did that.
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:46 PM   #22
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I also second Groco, they make a quality product.
http://www.hopkins-carter.com/grfuflbasefb1.html
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:49 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by psneeld View Post
the actual seacock?...or just the tail-piece barb?...

The little 1/2 incher I put in one of our aluminum boats I'm pretty sure could have easily handles 500lbs...bt certainly not the tail-piece barb.
ABYC tests with the tail piece fitted. I have attached the drawing from their manual.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf ABYC SEACOCKS.pdf (94.2 KB, 42 views)
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Old 06-20-2014, 02:33 PM   #24
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I have had good results with Buck Algonquin bronze products. Deep Blue Yacht Supply in Ft. Lauderdale is an excellent source for all things below the water line, good service if you have questions too. Great source for the highest quality Zincs, BTW.

Boat Props, Cutlass Bearings, Zinc Anodes, Prop Shaft Seals. Order your boat propeller today.
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Old 06-20-2014, 02:45 PM   #25
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Quote:
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ABYC tests with the tail piece fitted. I have attached the drawing from their manual.

In all fairness then...ABYC needs some bigger thinkers over there.

Most wire reinforced hoses will deteriorate to the point of not accepting a 500# side load long before either a bronze tail piece or seacock fails...and so will probably a hundred other things that will cause a boat to destroy itself.

What's their "maintenance requirements" if they are so hepped up on new construction materials? Oh yeah...fix it before you sink...great.

The tail piece only needs to be as strong as the hose...the whole point of the seacock is to secure the leak no matter where it develops in an emergency.

While I think ABYC has some good points ....sometimes the big picture gets lost.
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Old 06-20-2014, 03:19 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by psneeld View Post
The tail piece only needs to be as strong as the hose...the whole point of the seacock is to secure the leak no matter where it develops in an emergency.

True.

How many of you carry some of these?

Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByTrawler Forum1403291469.329815.jpg
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ID:	30696

Or if like me you have teenage sons along a couple of these?

Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByTrawler Forum1403291519.545899.jpg
Views:	74
Size:	44.0 KB
ID:	30697

Here's a hint, either of them can keep your boat above water if you lose a seacock when you need it the most. They can change your mayday broadcast into a pon pon or a call to the towing company at most.

Some real forward thinking types have been known to secure an appropriate sized tapered plug too the seacock it is meant to plug in an emergency.
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Old 06-20-2014, 03:39 PM   #27
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I think you miss the point, the tail piece is the point of the most leverage on the whole fitting. It is the only logical place to test the integrity of the entire assembly.
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Old 06-20-2014, 03:59 PM   #28
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You can debate leverage...but failure is what s or isn't important.

The "point" of a seacock assembly is to stop the water....and it will do that whether there's a tailpiece or not...like I posted...if the tailpiece is included...then the 500 pound test should include everything in the bilge that can break and leak then...

Missed the point? ...maybe not....
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Old 06-20-2014, 05:12 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boatpoker View Post
From the ABYC Standards manual ....

ABYC and its committees do not "approve", "certify" or "endorse" any item, construction or propietary device.

Forespar's own website says they do not have UL approval and the UL logo does not appear on it's products.

Forsepar claims to meet or exceed ABYC and UL requirements but are not so certified.
The web site also says "Forespar’s “93” series of valve systems are U. L. approved and A.B.Y.C. accepted. They also meet and exceed all mechanical property requirements specified by the International Standards Organization and are ISO Certified."

It does not say they are A.B.Y.C. certified only ISO certified.

And I have used them in a number of boat over the last few decades with out any problems.

But as usual, YMMV.
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Old 06-20-2014, 05:16 PM   #30
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If that is what you think, why did you tout Forespar as having UL approval and ABYC acceptance (which they don't) ?
That was me. :-) I was quoting this.

"Forespar’s “93” series of valve systems are U. L. approved and A.B.Y.C. accepted. They also meet and exceed all mechanical property requirements specified by the International Standards Organization and are ISO Certified."
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Old 06-20-2014, 10:35 PM   #31
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Thanks Oliver!
I wish they would let me be a sponsor like I am on Cruisers Forum. Then I could plug myself!

This is just an opinion from looking at them but I think the older Forespar Marlon Seacocks were under built. The stem connecting the ball would twist off when the ball jammed.


They now make a much heavier design but only seem to market it to boat builders. I couldn't even find it on their website. It's their 93 Series. It is in their catalog marked OEM sales only.

When I previewed this post I saw that Capt Bill brought up the 93 series already.

For now, I'll stick with my bronze seacocks. They're 25 years old and work fine.
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Old 06-20-2014, 11:40 PM   #32
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Groco had a recall on their seacocks a few years ago due to poor metalergy. They offered no help on hauling or labor to customers. Turns out they were made in Asia. Fool me once...... no more Groco for me.
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Old 06-20-2014, 11:51 PM   #33
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Brooksie, that was about ten years ago. There was no urgent need to replace the valves. Groco suggested they be replaced on your next regular haul out.
The BV series are made in the USA. The FBV are imported.

There have been no problems with either the BV or FBV seacocks ever since.
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Old 06-21-2014, 12:44 AM   #34
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"This is just an opinion from looking at them but I think the older Forespar Marlon Seacocks were under built. The stem connecting the ball would twist off when the ball jammed."

I see your point. But then I've lost count of the metal sea cocks I've seen/found with their handles missing or broken off over the years. :-)

No matter what they are made of they all need regular use and maintenance.
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Old 06-21-2014, 06:06 AM   #35
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Regular exercising of these valves will go a long way toward longevity of service. An open/ close policy keeps things working.
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Old 06-26-2014, 04:03 PM   #36
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Groco is good stuff.

Marelon is good stuff. Emotionally I still can't bring myself to use it, but objectively I probably should. For some reason I can't make objective decisions with it. It's not like the old plastic above water through hull's that got brittle/fractured and broke off one by one.

Oh well, I'm cautious that way. Believe it or not, this was the first year i've ever bought 3m 4000/4200. I stocked up on 101 years ago and finally ran out. Only thing wrong with that product was the cost to mfg. I let the rest of you go first on most new products until such time they are not new before I get my hands wet. I've also stocked up on butyl tape, which is long proven, not sure why we don't use more of it. Anyhow, I digress.

If you use Marelon, I'd still strongly suggest using bronze hardware not stainless. I see too many using stainless below the water line and I'm not a fan of it where it can suffer from crevice corrosion.
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