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Old 05-22-2015, 08:04 PM   #21
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$20 Cdn.
Is that for a full-size calking gun tube or a smaller tube (I've never seen anything smaller than the full-size gun tube).
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Old 05-22-2015, 08:17 PM   #22
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Well, I don't know what I was thinking of. A calking tube of TDS at Fisheries Supply is $13. Maybe I was thinking of Bristol, which is some $60 a kit.
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Old 05-22-2015, 08:55 PM   #23
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blistering Cap rail joints

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Well, I don't know what I was thinking of. A calking tube of TDS at Fisheries Supply is $13. Maybe I was thinking of Bristol, which is some $60 a kit.
$20 Cdn was for the full size caulking tube. They rip us off up here!

I heard back from S-3 Maritime. He recommends using 3M 4000UV and doing the caulking in two layers with 2 days of curing between layers. After masking, he suggests "squeegying" down the first layer with a small stick or tool and work it to get rid of air bubbles. The second layer is slightly proud of the joint and is trimmed down with a sharp chisel after it is cured. "Bubbles are from out gassing of trapped air, try to avoid leaving any voids by squeezing sealant with putty knife when laying in. Poke with knife if needed to pop uncured bubbles."

The two layer idea seems smart, not sure if I have the talent to cut the 2nd layer with a sharp chisel. I'm NOT Michaelangelo!

I will use the TDS product and do it in two layers as he suggests and see how that goes. It makes sense to me.

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Old 05-22-2015, 10:31 PM   #24
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Marin,
Does one get surgeons gloves in a hospital?
Wonderful sealing method. I've been trying stuff for years w very little success.

Re the caulking we've been using SikaFlex 291 for many years and had no issues that wer'nt expected. Was going to try the brown BoatLife as they say it's formulated for teak. We generally have the BoatLife around as it's availible in the small toothpaste type tubes so very small amounts can be accessed and the screw thread cap lasts quite a long time. Chris uses it kinda like touch-up paint. More than anything else she puts in in very shallow bung holes. And the brown blends well w the wood. As intended I suppose.
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Old 05-22-2015, 10:39 PM   #25
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Marin,
Does one get surgeons gloves in a hospital?
.
No, I just didn't know how else to describe them. And they aren't nylon--- i don't know why I came up with that one. They're latex. You can buy them in bulk at Costco and hardware stores.

I first learned of their value from the fellow who used to own the BMW shop I used. He wears them to keep his hands clean while working on vehicles. After decades of working on my Land Rover and other vehicles and getting my hands semi-permanently stained with grease and dirty oil and whatnot, I realized what a dummy I'd been. Now I wear them whenever I work on a vehicle, on a job on our boats, and so on.
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Old 05-22-2015, 10:49 PM   #26
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I use the vinyl gloves. When I rebedded the pilothouse windows with 3m 4200, I used 8 cartridges of caulk over several months. After a job, I remove the applicator tube, put a used vinyl glove over the aluminum nipple and take a new applicator tube from an unopened tube of caulk and screw it on to the nipple. It completely and tightly holds the vinyl in place. Then it goes into the fridge. That worked very well.


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Old 05-22-2015, 10:52 PM   #27
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The few times I've worn latex gloves, they quickly fill with perspiration. How long before super-humidity will harm one's hands?
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Old 05-22-2015, 11:15 PM   #28
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Nitrile gloves are the way to go. We buy two cases at a time. Mark, you get use to the sweat. I think Auto Zone carries them for around $-6 per box. Thats 32 per set up. A hired mechanic will charge you the 4-5 minutes while he washed his hands (X $100 an hour!). It might save you money to keep a box on hand to offer to him 😊. Working with wets hands can be tough during the summer, but It's MUCH better on your hands than gear oil, old grease, etc etc


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Old 05-23-2015, 01:56 AM   #29
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Okay, third time's a charm. I just went out and looked at the Costco gloves in the shop in our garage. They are Nitrile Exam gloves. So not nylon, not latex. My hands don't sweat in them and they are thin enough that I can feel evertything I'm doing, even working with little fasteners and such. Sold under Costco's Kirkland house name.
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Old 05-26-2015, 09:24 PM   #30
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Thanks Marin for the advice on the TDS product. Definitely superior to the Sikaflex product. I followed the instructions from S-3 Maritime and caulked in two layers, although I suspect that wasn't necessary. It definitely didn't gas at all, unlike the Sikaflex that when cured looked like closed-cell neoprene.


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Old 05-27-2015, 05:17 AM   #31
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Thanks Marin for the advice on the TDS product. Definitely superior to the Sikaflex product. I followed the instructions from S-3 Maritime and caulked in two layers, although I suspect that wasn't necessary. It definitely didn't gas at all, unlike the Sikaflex that when cured looked like closed-cell neoprene.


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Jim,

I know that others (Larry on Hobo) opened up the joints with a Dremel. Did you do that? If so, how deep did you go?

Mike


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Old 05-27-2015, 05:43 AM   #32
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Jim you will like the TDS caulk . Larry told me about it and I use it almost everywhere I have teak . It cleans up really well with the brush cleaner stuff that smells good , I forget the name . Here is where we used TDS on our door panels . We used a flexible plastic putty knife and had good results .
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Old 05-27-2015, 08:56 AM   #33
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Mike: I had considered the Dremel as suggested by Larry but ended up using a "Feins-tool-a-like" with a new, sharp blade. I went down about 5/8" and 1/4" wide. The new KK builds are about that wide. I believe Larry also mentioned the TDS caulk to me as well.


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Old 05-27-2015, 11:05 AM   #34
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Feins has purpose built Teak Blades in various sizes that make incredibly short, clean work of deck caulk removal. Kind of hook shaped. Scroll down this page and you'll see them. Yes they are worth it in time saved and quality of the work.

Fein MultiMaster Cutting Blades, Scraping Blades
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Old 05-27-2015, 12:49 PM   #35
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Re the gloves Marin and all I think there are "mechanics" gloves probably much more suited for this find of use than nylon or latex gloves.

I've only used them once and I think I was'nt 100% pleased. Anybody else had more experience w them?
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Old 05-27-2015, 01:35 PM   #36
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Quote:
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Mike: I had considered the Dremel as suggested by Larry but ended up using a "Feins-tool-a-like" with a new, sharp blade. I went down about 5/8" and 1/4" wide. The new KK builds are about that wide. I believe Larry also mentioned the TDS caulk to me as well.


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Thanks Jim. That's a project I need to take on soon.


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Old 05-27-2015, 01:36 PM   #37
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Feins has purpose built Teak Blades in various sizes that make incredibly short, clean work of deck caulk removal. Kind of hook shaped. Scroll down this page and you'll see them. Yes they are worth it in time saved and quality of the work.

Fein MultiMaster Cutting Blades, Scraping Blades

Thanks...I was about to google it.


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Old 05-29-2015, 08:55 AM   #38
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Marty,
What are you using as a finish coat. Did you apply the TDS after your final finish or finish over it?
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Old 05-29-2015, 09:33 AM   #39
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I'm not sure what Marty was going to use, but I used epoxy sealer inside the joint. 2coats Cetol Natural Teak and 5 coats and counting of the Cetol Marine Gloss. Then I taped off the joint and used the TDS product, removing the tape immediately after the product was applied. I will apply more cetol but not on the joint.


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Old 05-29-2015, 10:07 AM   #40
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Jim or Marty,
TDS recommends "bond breaker tape" on the bottom of the seam. I have no idea what this is.
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