Bilge pumps

[River Cruiser]

I have small stripper pumps in the keel, one forward and a second in the engine compartment. At present I use small Rule 360 gob manual pumps. The AC condensate drains to the bilge and these remove this and what drips through the shaft-log packing. Last fall I switched on the engine compartment pump and forgot about it and burnt up the pump, not the 1st time I forgot it but the 1st time I ruined a pump. I have always contemplated replacing these pumps with a diaphragm type that could run dry without damage. I’ve been looking at the Whale IC pumps. Has any of the forum members put these into service and what are your opinions of their suitability and longevity? Here’s a pic of the one I’am thinking of using, not sure how much water it would leave. Thanks for sharing your opinions.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. RC. Ever thought of putting the pump circuit on a timer? IF the only concern is forgetting to turn a pump off AND the old pumps worked satisfactorily...Just sayin'

 

[Comodave]

If you are looking for a stripper pump, to get the last bit of water out, this is a good pump. I put one in my last boat to get down into the keel. If you are looking for a general bilge pump, this is way too small a capacity. For that you need a centrifugal pump. High capacity but won’t pump as low as a diaphragm pump.

 

[River Cruiser]

I want a pump that will remove as much water as possible. I have secondary pumps of much higher capacity on automatic switches mounted higher up.

 

[River Cruiser]

Greetings,
Mr. RC. Ever thought of putting the pump circuit on a timer? IF the only concern is forgetting to turn a pump off AND the old pumps worked satisfactorily...Just sayin'

I never considered that as a possibility. Do you know of a source for a timer to handle that chore? Thanks for another option RT.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. RC. You're quite welcome sir. Something like this may work:

https://www.lightbulbs.com/product/intermatic-18555

BUT please ask someone who actually knows what they're talking about before you buy and install something like this. A 110v unit may not be compatible with a 12v pump (amps involved/internal contacts etc.). I simply did a quick and dirty search for a mechanical timer. Being mechanical, you don't need 110v for the innards to work like you would for one of those fancy digital units.

 

[BIG CAT]

Greetings,
Mr. RC. You're quite welcome sir. Something like this may work:

https://www.lightbulbs.com/product/intermatic-18555

BUT please ask someone who actually knows what they're talking about before you buy and install something like this. A 110v unit may not be compatible with a 12v pump (amps involved/internal contacts etc.). I simply did a quick and dirty search for a mechanical timer. Being mechanical, you don't need 110v for the innards to work like you would for one of those fancy digital units.

We use the same basic timer for DC lighting in power modules. They last a very long time and are pretty robust.

 

[HopCar]

I like your thinking on this. If you decide to go with a timer, Raritan makes a good solid state one but it only goes to 15 seconds. Don’t know if that’s long enough.
http://raritaneng.com/raritan-product-line/sanitation-accessories/raritime/

 

[Bigsfish]

Parks

How is the new boat coming? Did yo make an offer? Inquiring minds.

 

[Lou_tribal]

I like your thinking on this. If you decide to go with a timer, Raritan makes a good solid state one but it only goes to 15 seconds. Don’t know if that’s long enough.
http://raritaneng.com/raritan-product-line/sanitation-accessories/raritime/

You can easily find all sort of adjustable timing relay

https://www.grainger.com/search?searchQuery=12v+timer+delay+relay&optOut=0&NLSCM=14

L

 

[HopCar]

Parks

How is the new boat coming? Did yo make an offer? Inquiring minds.

Busy playing with small boats for now. The one I had my eye on sold. Something else will come along.

Got a call from a guy who bought Possum from the insurance company. He’s got her at Apex Marine on the river. We couldn’t communicate well by phone, language differences. Text messages worked ok. I need to give him the books and engine cover I have at home.

 

[Bigsfish]

Parks

Sorry you missed it but another will come along.

 

[Symphony]

I have small stripper pumps in the keel, one forward and a second in the engine compartment. At present I use small Rule 360 gob manual pumps. The AC condensate drains to the bilge and these remove this and what drips through the shaft-log packing. Last fall I switched on the engine compartment pump and forgot about it and burnt up the pump, not the 1st time I forgot it but the 1st time I ruined a pump. I have always contemplated replacing these pumps with a diaphragm type that could run dry without damage. I’ve been looking at the Whale IC pumps. Has any of the forum members put these into service and what are your opinions of their suitability and longevity? Here’s a pic of the one I’am thinking of using, not sure how much water it would leave. Thanks for sharing your opinions.
View attachment 72613

I have one of these pumps which I used to empty the bilge down to the last drop. I did not install it, rather I just powered it when needed and put a length of hose on either end.

The pump worked great until there was not much water left in the hose, with any air in the line it could never lift it out of the bilge. I used clear hose, so once there was some air in the line I would have to llift the hose up To let it run down to the pump and out.

Running dry does not damage the pump.

 

[dhays]

I have heard really good things about this unit. I actually have bought one for the same purpose but haven’t yet installed it.

http://www.drybilgesystem.com

 

[FF]

For folks that do not live aboard , using a counter in the pump circuit will alert you to higher pump use.

If the pump usually turns on say 15 times a week, and you arrive to see 150 , you know the pump is keeping the boat up, and its time for a good look for the water source.

 

[Tom.B]

I have heard really good things about this unit. I actually have bought one for the same purpose but haven’t yet installed it.

http://www.drybilgesystem.com

Wow... pretty homemade rig there. Still, he had me UNTIL the end when he said you need to have a clean bilge free of debris or you will clog the filter (and the hose). Yea, that aint gonna happen. There is just too much stuff that makes its way down there to ever be able to use such a small tube to keep it dry. Some people may be able to keep it cleaner, but there are bits of trash, the stripped ends of 1000s of wire, tape, caulk blobs... you name it. Sucks too... it looked so promising.

 

[Lou_tribal]

I have heard really good things about this unit. I actually have bought one for the same purpose but haven’t yet installed it.

http://www.drybilgesystem.com

Not my goal to trash business from anyone but if anybody want this system it is extremely easy and cheap to do it yourself. Component are very cheap, the whole electronic control box would cost you no more than 10$ enclosure included and the pump is extremely cheap too (around 25$ on amazon). 40$ instead of 375$ is a lot of money saved...

L

 

[timb]

I like your thinking on this. If you decide to go with a timer, Raritan makes a good solid state one but it only goes to 15 seconds. Don’t know if that’s long enough.
http://raritaneng.com/raritan-product-line/sanitation-accessories/raritime/

I'll bet that my crown head in the aft cabin has one of these .I need to find it and turn it down.

 

[Symphony]

Not my goal to trash business from anyone but if anybody want this system it is extremely easy and cheap to do it yourself. Component are very cheap, the whole electronic control box would cost you no more than 10$ enclosure included and the pump is extremely cheap too (around 25$ on amazon). 40$ instead of 375$ is a lot of money saved...

L

Is there a schematic for the controller somewhere OpenSource?

 

[Lou_tribal]

Is there a schematic for the controller somewhere OpenSource?

There are tons of them, search for water level controller circuit or pump controller circuit. No rocket science, a probe, an IC with logic gate, transistor and a relay to command the pump. Depending of what you want to do you can have a low-high mode to switch on/off the pump or have a timer relay to keep the pump running the time you set. You can even by the circuit already made for 5 or 10 bucks with connection for your probe and connection for your pump.

L

 

[Symphony]

Thanks, Lou
That seems do able.
Sounds like a project from my TTL Cookbook days.

I am trying to remember the last time I saw my breadboard and jumpers; I think it was 1974. Uh oh.

Thumbs up!

 

[Lou_tribal]

Thanks, Lou
That seems do able.
Sounds like a project from my TTL Cookbook days.

I am trying to remember the last time I saw my breadboard and jumpers; I think it was 1974. Uh oh.

Thumbs up!

Considering the ridiculous price of electronic components nowadays I like to play with this and you can easily make neat little things.

L

 

[River Cruiser]

I’am going with a Whale 320 diaphragm pump in my spares and a Whale foot on the suction end.
I shouldn’t have to revisit this any time in the future.

 

[Lepke]

There are all kinds of electronic 12 volt timers or relay timers on ebay. $5-15.

 

[River Cruiser]

There are all kinds of electronic 12 volt timers or relay timers on ebay. $5-15.

I contemplated adding a timer to the circuit but decided against it as it would be another possible point of failure. This keeps it simple which is all that’s needed and if I forget to switch it off after the bilge is pumped out no damage to the pump. It does have a light at the helm indicating the circuit is energized, I do need to pay closer attention instead of getting distracted by other chores.