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Old 09-10-2016, 11:01 AM   #41
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After I got my bilge clean and dry there was still some smell. I put some bilge cleaner in and flooded the bilge so it could get underneath and into all the hidden spaces. After some sloshing and drying all smells were gone.


IMO it is the hidden spaces that continue to smell after what you see is clean.
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Old 09-10-2016, 11:09 AM   #42
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So there is no study on a small ozone maker placed in a small space such as a bilge.

You can conduct a very reliable study yourself: Turn it off--not just for a long weekend, leave it off--and see how long it takes for odor return. If the concentration of ozone was high enough to destroy the source(s) of the odor, it won't. However, if it was high enough to do that, it was also high enough in that small a space to damage rubber.

I actually think Fresh Wave is the same formula as Pure Ayre,

If you'd read the MSDS for both products (information readily available on the net), you'd know it isn't. Active ingredients in PureAyre are proprietary food grade yeast byproducts, pure essential oils, purified water and potassium sorbate.PureAyre is also rated for use around food (which means you can use it in fish boxes and to get rid of the odor in your fridge left by meat that spoiled when the power failed). No mention to keep out of the reach of children.
PureAyre MSDS

Fresh Wave is just a "proprietary blend (Trade Secret) of plant extracts (essential oils), surfactant and water." No mention of whether it's rated for use around food, but does warn to "Keep out the reach of children, All individual ingredients of this material have a known acute toxicity" which I suspect would rule out using it anywhere it could come in contact with food. Fresh Wave pods MSDS The key difference in PureAyre is food grade yeast by-products--enzymes--that destroy the source(s) of odors. Plant extracts don't produce any enzymes.
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Old 09-10-2016, 11:12 AM   #43
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Hmm, good question about how old the head plumbing is. I know the aft head is relatively new, but have plans on replacing the forward head as that seems quite old on visual inspection by me.

I'm pretty good with house plumbing. My understanding on boat plumbing is a different animal. That I will need to research.
It's very different animal. I'll be glad to help you with all of this.
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Old 09-10-2016, 11:17 AM   #44
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Speaking of moving air, I have two Eva-dry 1100 dehumidifiers I run when not on the boat, but my boat has a bit of a "rubbery" smell when I first walk in. Those two humidifiers hardly move any air at all. I need some air circulation.

What type of fans do you use, and feel comfortable with running 24/7 when not on the boat?

Nothing special, for the portable fans. Honeywell table models from K-Mart or somewhere. Experimenting with an O2Cool, too, although haven't run that one 24/7 yet.

Our AC blowers can run whether the AC cooling/heating is on or not... so we leave them running 24/7 too.

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Old 09-10-2016, 11:38 AM   #45
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For some reason I have a fear, probably irrational, of a fan catching on fire from running too long. I don't get to the boat but every week, sometimes two weeks, so that worries me but maybe it shouldn't.
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Old 09-10-2016, 11:59 AM   #46
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So there is no study on a small ozone maker placed in a small space such as a bilge.

You can conduct a very reliable study yourself: Turn it off--not just for a long weekend, leave it off--and see how long it takes for odor return. If the concentration of ozone was high enough to destroy the source(s) of the odor, it won't. However, if it was high enough to do that, it was also high enough in that small a space to damage rubber.
Nope, I can't. See post #30 above.

And why would anyone want to turn it off if it is working for them?

And here is the bottom line, they are not mutually exclusive. Doing one does not preclude having the other.

Sure find the source, clean etc.

That does not stop you from having something else working for you as well. Especially if you have long periods away from the boat.
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Old 09-10-2016, 07:12 PM   #47
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For some reason I have a fear, probably irrational, of a fan catching on fire from running too long. I don't get to the boat but every week, sometimes two weeks, so that worries me but maybe it shouldn't.
I see from your avatar you are in a covered slip, but if you get enough sun on some portion of the boat how about a solar fan?NICRO VENTILATION Day/Night Plus Solar Vents | West Marine
There are a few styles that might work.
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Old 09-10-2016, 07:17 PM   #48
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Bilge freshener?

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Originally Posted by Aquafarm View Post
I see from your avatar you are in a covered slip, but if you get enough sun on some portion of the boat how about a solar fan?NICRO VENTILATION Day/Night Plus Solar Vents | West Marine

There are a few styles that might work.

So you have to cut a big hole to mount those? Can you cut a hole in a hatch ?

How would this affect humidity inside the boat? Will it suck in and circulate more humid air? We are in a very humid area.
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Old 09-10-2016, 07:31 PM   #49
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I doubt it would cause a problem with humidity since it is exhausting out.
There are other styles that can be used on existing windows or hatches, like those car solar fans. You might even be able to rig something up with a small solar panel outside to run an interior fan.
Another idea might be to set an electric fan on a timer, so it's not running none stop ( a thing that would worry me too) and have it go on an hour or so a few times a day.
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Old 09-10-2016, 07:50 PM   #50
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I like that timer idea. Thanks.
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Old 09-10-2016, 07:58 PM   #51
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The OP original question was for a Bilge Freshener the best off the shelf product I have used is fabric conditioner for $3 its worth a try
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Old 09-10-2016, 08:25 PM   #52
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Cardude: The nicro solar vent has a reversible blade. You can make it IN or OUT flowing.

Regarding the smells. If it is determined that the sanitation. System hoses are fine; Both salt water (mud flats at low tide) and fresh water (rotten eggs) have different (and obnoxious) smells to them. It helps if you find which the water is coming from. Make sure your bulge pump pumps ALL the water out in a cycle. Adjust the location/depth of the pump suction. Whale makes a skinny, fairly low capacity pump which fits way down in a crevice to pump the bilge dry.

Personally I am always making sure there is NO leakage coming in from the sea. Rain water is not so important since rain stops (eventually). But underwater leaks sink a boat.

Salt water grows slime in the bilge that is alive with growth. Fresh water just stinks. Vinegar cleans bilges pretty well. Small amounts of dish soap. And cleaning with a long brush. (Look at HD for refrigerator /radiator cleaning brushes. Long flexible and cheap. Scrub off and loosen the black slime.

I have used a capful of bleach, scrub, Then pumping out the bilge dry and then dumping 5 or 10 gallons water in and re emptying the bilge works too.
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Old 09-10-2016, 10:39 PM   #53
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Hmm, good question about how old the head plumbing is. I know the aft head is relatively new, but have plans on replacing the forward head as that seems quite old on visual inspection by me.

I'm pretty good with house plumbing. My understanding on boat plumbing is a different animal. That I will need to research.

Not the head, but the hoses from the head to the holding tank. Old hoses can get permeated with waste and start the small. At that point the only answer is to replace the hoses.
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Old 09-10-2016, 10:50 PM   #54
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In my experience two things help.

1. Clean the bilge. Soap, water, and a brush. Rinse well. I usually follow it with some bleach. I mix up a 10% solution of household bleach in a spray bottle and spray down the bilge after cleaning and rinsing, let it sit for a while and them rinse it again. Keep in mind that bleach is corrosive.

2. Keep it dry. You can't get rid of all the water in a bilge on many boats, but you can keep the air dry. I use a dehumidifier running 24/7 when we are not on the boat. Have some way to get air to circulate through the boat be it open hatches or small fans. The air just need to move a little, you don't need big fans.

This assumes that you have found and fixed any fuel leaks and that your sanitation hoses are in good shape.

But get Peggy's book and read it. You will find facts there instead of our conjecture.
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Old 09-10-2016, 11:00 PM   #55
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Congrats Donna, you are now a veteran!
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Old 10-12-2016, 12:53 PM   #56
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As mentioned by HeadMistress keep an tupperware bowl of white vinegar half full in each of your bilge areas. Three reasons. First it's cheap. Second it is the best smell remover there is and third it stops and eliminates mold growth of any kind.
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Old 10-12-2016, 03:27 PM   #57
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Wasn't my idea...I've never recommended air fresheners (which tubs of vinegar would be) instead of eliminating the need for any by eliminating the source(s) of the odor(s) and molds. A clean bilge doesn't generate either one.
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Old 10-12-2016, 03:45 PM   #58
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Hmm, good question about how old the head plumbing is. I know the aft head is relatively new, but have plans on replacing the forward head as that seems quite old on visual inspection by me.

I'm pretty good with house plumbing. My understanding on boat plumbing is a different animal. That I will need to research.
You really should determine what the odor is and where it's coming from. If your bilge smells like sewage, your head hoses would be suspect. If it smells like diesel, replacing the head hoses won't make a difference.

There are three rules to plumbing regardless of residential, commercial or boat:

1) Hot on the left
2) Cold on the right
3) Shit don't flow uphill
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Old 10-12-2016, 03:47 PM   #59
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You really should determine what the odor is and where it's coming from. If your bilge smells like sewage, your head hoses would be suspect. If it smells like diesel, replacing the head hoses won't make a difference.

There are three rules to plumbing regardless of residential. commercial or boat:

30 Shit don't flow uphill.
Say that to the fuel dock hands who undo a waste cap where the vent is blocked.
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Old 10-12-2016, 03:54 PM   #60
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This has worked for me:


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