Better living through chemistry

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
I have a leaking hatch. The transition between the deck and the vertical section are covered with a piece of 1/4 round. Some DPO had the bright idea of bedding this 1/4 round in, what I suspect is Life Caulk or Boatlife brown caulk. To remove one 2' (aprox.) section has taken me about 4 hrs. as I wish to re-use this molding. Now, the conundrum...What solvent/chemical can I use to remove this goop from the molding? I plan to get a capped length of copper pipe to use as a "soak tank" to minimize solvent volume. Options are: acetone, lacquer thinner, turpentine, paint remover (usually methylene chloride), gasoline, alcohol or any other stuff you can suggest.. I currently have none of these and don't wish to store an unsuitable solvent on board (fire hazard). Thanks in advance.

 

[Keith]

Lacquer thinner is probably the strongest of those. Boatlife makes a caulk remover specifically for their products, but I've only used it on fresh caulk. Is the 1/4 round wood? Are you worried about soaking that in a solvent?

 

[Moonstruck]

Mr. RT, Boatlife polysulfide sealant can be stubborn to remove. I have had some luck with toluene.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Yup, the 1/4 round is teak. My only concern about solvent soaking is the brown effluent soaking into the wood but since I will be re-coating with Cetol I expect the color variation will not be an issue.
The molding was fastened with brass brads of some sort but I will be re-bedding with Dolphinite (sp?) and I will use #4 (probably) screws to facilitate future removal and service.
Golly-gee willikers.....two responses in 13 minutes! Ya gotta love this site. Thanks. I'll accept any and all suggestions.

 

[HopCar]

Hi RT, Here is a link to the remover that Keith mentioned: BoatLIFE | Release Adhesive & Sealant Remover 1oz.
There is at least one other remover of this type, of course I can't remember the name! You would have to spray and scrape with this remover.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Thanks Mr. HopCar. I looked up the MSDS on the product and it contains cyclohexanone and 2-butanone. @ $13.36 an ounce it's more expensive than single malt scotch!! I've just gone out and purchased some xylene (Ace didn't stock toluene) and have my one piece soaking right now. Who knows, I may have to buy the BoatLIFE stuff AND a bottle of scotch....I'll let you all know what transpires...

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Well, the xylene soak (for about 3 hrs.) denatured the goop sufficiently to allow fairly easy removal with a sharp paint scraper. Many thanks for all the suggestions. Mind you I wouldn't want to do a whole cap rail but it serves for the purpose I need.

 

[Marin]

We use heat very successfully to remove old finish, bedding, adhesive compounds, etc. It's about the only thing that works when needing to remove something bedded with 5200.

 

[Nomad Willy]

In the old days I'd strip an entire boat (except bilge and sometimes even that) with a hand held propane torch. Not good for varnish as it leaves some slightly scorcthed spots (more or less black) but as I recall that was on Red Cedar planking. Harder woods may not have that problem if one is a bit careful.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Propane torches, multiple scrapers, case(s) of beer, 5 enthusiastic (for beer anyway) legal teenagers, six hours later a 34' wood hull stripped and ready for repair/paint.
Speaking of heat, I used a thin spatula heated and forced betwixt that aforementioned 1/4 round and the hatch side to remove said 1/4 round in one piece.
Cooked for the day-heatwise. Have two pieces off and almost prepped. Will resume tomorrow AM if Ernesto doesn't intrude. Many thanks again all.