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Old 08-31-2015, 08:02 AM   #1
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Band Clamp Question

"This one time, at Band Clamp..."

I have ordered enough AWAB clamps to replace all our below-the-waterline clamps that are looking a bit rough and rusty. The survey pointed them out and the insurance company wants them changed.

My question is: Where there are double clamps, which one makes the most sense to change first? The one closer to the sea or the one inboard (closer to the boat)?

*I am doing this in the water BTW
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:10 AM   #2
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Doesn't matter assuming they are both still holding! If not replace the broken one first.
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:17 AM   #3
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I would do furthest from the sea, although it probably doesn't matter. As these hoses have no more than 3 psi pressure in them, you could take both off without there likely being any leakage. If they are barbed nipples, the hoses certainly aren't coming off.

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Old 08-31-2015, 08:43 AM   #4
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You are over thinking it.
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Old 08-31-2015, 01:44 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt.Bill11 View Post
You are over thinking it.
It's my brand...

Thanks for the advice y'all.
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Old 09-01-2015, 07:11 AM   #6
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Usually in time the hose will have welded itself to the fitting.

You can probably remove BOTH hose clamps with no water inrush.
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Old 09-01-2015, 08:03 AM   #7
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I put squirt of white lithium spray grease into the worm gear of new hose clamps - pays dividends later on.
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Old 09-01-2015, 09:40 AM   #8
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I put squirt of white lithium spray grease into the worm gear of new hose clamps - pays dividends later on.
Good idea.
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Old 09-01-2015, 11:22 AM   #9
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I spray 'em with Corrsion X though AWABs really don't seem to need it.

Tom, get yourself a T handle nut drive and a 7mm head, it will make putting those AWABs in so much easier. A Gear Wrench is handy too. Almost all el cheapo standard clamps are 5/16, slightly bigger than the AWAB. So a 5/16 will help you get the old ones off.
Way superior than trying to use a screw driver!
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Old 09-01-2015, 11:42 AM   #10
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I spray 'em with Corrsion X though AWABs really don't seem to need it.

Tom, get yourself a T handle nut drive and a 7mm head, it will make putting those AWABs in so much easier. A Gear Wrench is handy too. Almost all el cheapo standard clamps are 5/16, slightly bigger than the AWAB. So a 5/16 will help you get the old ones off.
Way superior than trying to use a screw driver!
You should put this in that other thread...tips and techniques.
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Old 09-02-2015, 12:35 AM   #11
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You obviously have not had to remove hoses before. The only time they come off easily is when the hose barb is too small for the hose. Besides, that's what seacocks are for. Turn the valves off.
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Old 09-19-2015, 08:44 AM   #12
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Hey everyone...

I wanted to give a quick follow-up on this. So I measured every clamp and spend over $350 at Defender on almost 50 all-new AWAB clamps for below-the-waterline. Spend an entire day replacing them all.

George wins The Tip Of The Day Award, while I didn't find a T-handle to use, I went to Northern Tool and found a nut driver with a universal joint in the middle and it help immensely!

So here is the takeaway - This was the scariest job ever. Apparently, Navigator (like many manufacturers I suppose) used regular slotted clamps for every application. I found that three had already failed; including one on the sea-side of the prop stuffing box! However, to make matters worse, more than six clamps failed the moment I put the nut driver on them to begin removal... Including the second clamp on the sea-side of that very same stuffing box!! I wish I had photos for you... Sorry.

All went well. A few were a tad hard to get to, but nothing major. A couple had double clamps when, clearly, there wasn't room on the hose barb for two (genset raw intake). I also replaces a few feet of rotted hose to both genset and AC pump. I can't imagine many of those clamps lasting much longer and I am glad the surveyor and insurance company flagged this as a to-do project. I will thank them by paying my premium this year :-)
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Old 09-19-2015, 09:04 AM   #13
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Did you have to cut any off?
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Old 09-19-2015, 09:39 AM   #14
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I found that three had already failed; six clamps failed the moment I put the nut driver on them
That's a 20% failure rate but I guess it's expected if they have not been looked at in 15 years. I'm surprised they weren't noticed before.
IMO they should be checked every season.
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Old 09-19-2015, 10:21 PM   #15
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Your findings have reminded me that I should replace the clamps on my stuffing box hoses. I've checked them but as you found, looks can be deceiving. I'll add it to this winter's list.

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Old 09-20-2015, 08:28 AM   #16
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Did you have to cut any off?
Nope. Well, it depends on your definition... I did have to pry apart the worm mechanism to get one to let go.
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Old 09-23-2015, 01:25 PM   #17
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I check my clamps once a year when I winterize the systems, I figure doing it when it's cold the hose is shrunk more than when it's hot. I usually get each to tighten a bit, some I remove to winterize and just replace and tighten the clamps so all I have to do in the spring is open the thru hull.


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