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Old 11-10-2015, 11:42 AM   #1
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Ball valve change out

So I'm finally going to change out the failed ball valve on my thru-hull today. This valve is for the AC cooler lines. The valve size is 1".

I bought one of these doodads to stop the flow of water when I remove the valve, then I thread the new valve over the red doodad then pull it out and close the valve. Allegedly.
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Questions:

Am I a fool for trying this while the boat is in the water? Will I be overwhelmed by the amount of water shooting up when I remove the valve?

Should I use some of this thread dope on the thru hull threads?
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Should I have the yard on standby for an emergency haulout?

Here's the old valve
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Driving to the boat now so y'all have an hour to stop me before I sink the boat. 😁
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Old 11-10-2015, 11:47 AM   #2
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This could get very interesting! Best of luck, got a good bilge pump, just in case?
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Old 11-10-2015, 12:08 PM   #3
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Ball valve change out

I have a bilge pump. It works. Not sure how "good" it is however. The boat also has a manually operated pump as well, and a small electric pump I use for flushing that I could rig up

Also have some of those wooden plugs.

What could possibly go wrong, right?
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Old 11-10-2015, 12:19 PM   #4
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No worries. Very little pressure involved. I've done similar work. It's not that dramatic.

I'd suggest a wooden plug and wax toilet bowl seal as a backup. Enough stuff to temporarily repair so you don't have to play little dutch boy for too long...

A cell phone within reach to call backup might be a good idea.

Worst case scenario, you break the thru hull.

Definitely use a thread compound.
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Old 11-10-2015, 12:28 PM   #5
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No worries. Very little pressure involved. I've done similar work. It's not that dramatic.

I'd suggest a wooden plug and wax toilet bowl seal as a backup. Enough stuff to temporarily repair so you don't have to play little dutch boy for too long...

A cell phone within reach to call backup might be a good idea.

Worst case scenario, you break the thru hull.

Definitely use a thread compound.

OK, thanks for that info. I just did not know if I was going to have a three-foot geyser shooting in my face.

Yeah my big worry is the thu hull threads breaking off for some reason. Is the wax seal used in conjunction with the wooden plug somehow?
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Old 11-10-2015, 12:30 PM   #6
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If your thru hull is 4' underwater there will be about 2 psi differential pressure on a 1" hole will be about 29 gallons per minute. So say half a gallon per second.

So 10 seconds open time is only 5 gallons.

Ten seconds is a long time.
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Old 11-10-2015, 12:32 PM   #7
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You can just wad the wax up and stuff it in the hole. It's just a cheap and readily available form of beeswax. A dollar store foam rubber bouncy ball is another good tool to have on board.
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Old 11-10-2015, 12:34 PM   #8
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Ball valve change out

Another question:

When I attempt to unscrew that ball valve is there a possibility that through hull could start spinning?

I don't see any good way to put a back up on that through hull. I sure don't want to put a pipe wrench on those threads

I am kind of the Murphy's law of boat repair over here, so that is why I ask
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Old 11-10-2015, 12:38 PM   #9
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Most thru hulls have lugs cast in the ID of them. You can use a "special tool" or a piece of flat bar, or a crescent wrench handle to keep it from turning. Might be tricky with a ball valve on there, if it is not a full port ball valve.

Probably won't need it though. Between the adhesive/sealant and the clamping force of the backing but, there is likely a lot of friction.
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Old 11-10-2015, 12:46 PM   #10
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OK, again thank you very much for all the information. If the valve does not start unscrewing fairly easily I will probably just stop and rethink this.
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Old 11-10-2015, 12:58 PM   #11
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A little penetrating oil and light tapping with a hammer loosens up frozen threads while you are thinking.
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Old 11-10-2015, 01:39 PM   #12
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So after all the drama and worrying, I get to dock and realize I forgot the new valve.

Unbelievable. Will try again Thursday.
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Old 11-10-2015, 01:53 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northern Spy View Post
If your thru hull is 4' underwater there will be about 2 psi differential pressure on a 1" hole will be about 29 gallons per minute. So say half a gallon per second.

So 10 seconds open time is only 5 gallons.

Ten seconds is a long time.
My Bernoulli chart shows a 2" hole 4' underwater will permit ingress of 157.1 gallons per minute or 26.18 gallons in 10 seconds.

To the OP ..... before you touch anything be sure you are dealing with matching thread types. Most throughulls are NPS and many ball valves are NPT. You don't want to pull a Beneteau
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Old 11-10-2015, 02:22 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cardude01 View Post
Another question:

When I attempt to unscrew that ball valve is there a possibility that through hull could start spinning?

I don't see any good way to put a back up on that through hull. I sure don't want to put a pipe wrench on those threads

I am kind of the Murphy's law of boat repair over here, so that is why I ask
Second Boatpokers comment re: threads - Excellent and Important Point -
see Thru Hull Primer if you aren't sure what he is referring to - Repeat Excellent and Important Point

I'd suggest a large crescent wrench on the thru hull flange nut - CW on the nut is tightening it and resisting the CCW rotation of the valve.

The bar inside only works from the outside or inside possibly if you don't use the red thingy... which by the way is a "Seabung".
I've seen the video but would appreciate a follow-up re: how it really worked when you are done.
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Old 11-10-2015, 02:31 PM   #15
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So after all the drama and worrying, I get to dock and realize I forgot the new valve.

Unbelievable. Will try again Thursday.
Glad to see I'm not the only one that has done that. Did ya at least spray some penetrating oil on it to help on Thursday?
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Old 11-10-2015, 02:44 PM   #16
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Glad to see I'm not the only one that has done that. Did ya at least spray some penetrating oil on it to help on Thursday?

I did!
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Old 11-10-2015, 02:57 PM   #17
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CD

Why are you changing out the valve again? Why not wait until next haul out? If you want to shut of flow to ACs lots of options to do it safer and easier than your planned method. But some like to live on the edge or even thrive on it
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Old 11-10-2015, 03:07 PM   #18
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CD

Why are you changing out the valve again? Why not wait until next haul out? If you want to shut of flow to ACs lots of options to do it safer and easier than your planned method. But some like to live on the edge or even thrive on it

The valve broke closed shut. I'm not due for a haulout for quite some time.

Also I just wanted to see if I could do it, for future reference.
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Old 11-10-2015, 04:41 PM   #19
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The valve broke closed shut. I'm not due for a haulout for quite some time
Dude...
"Closed"???..
Using the seabung requires opening the valve and inserting it thru the opening????

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Old 11-10-2015, 04:52 PM   #20
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OK, again thank you very much for all the information. If the valve does not start unscrewing fairly easily I will probably just stop and rethink this.

It's not uncommon for them to spin. And the special tool is designed to be inserted from the thruhull side not through the valve. So you'd have to have someone under the boat.

You can hold the threaded section of the thruhull beneath the valve with Vice Grips.

Why not have some one jump in the water and plug/hold the thruhull.
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