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Old 11-10-2015, 05:14 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Bacchus View Post
Dude...
"Closed"???..
Using the seabung requires opening the valve and inserting it thru the opening????

Don
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Yeah, my plan was to unscrew the defective ball valve, shove of the sea bung in the thru hull, then screw the new valve over the sea bung.
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Old 11-10-2015, 05:19 PM   #22
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Yeah, my plan was to unscrew the defective ball valve, shove of the sea bung in the thru hull, then screw the new valve over the sea bung.
Got it! - might want an assistant to be ready for step 2?
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Old 11-10-2015, 05:19 PM   #23
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It's not uncommon for them to spin. And the special tool is designed to be inserted from the thruhull side not through the valve. So you'd have to have someone under the boat.

You can hold the threaded section of the thruhull beneath the valve with Vice Grips.

Why not have some one jump in the water and plug/hold the thruhull.

Yeah I thought about getting someone (or me) to jump in and plug it from below. It's at the marina and I'm kind of scared-- the water is pretty gross. 😳
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Old 11-10-2015, 06:02 PM   #24
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Yeah I thought about getting someone (or me) to jump in and plug it from below. It's at the marina and I'm kind of scared-- the water is pretty gross. ��
However...it is much more scary and gross filling up your bilge. You should definitely be prepared to take a dip and plug the through hull from outside if the 'doomsday scenario' should occur. I can relate to those conditions as I have helped change wheels while in a slip at Acadiana Marina (a canal and basin dredged out of the Louisiana marsh and full of pet gators..pewwww) and the marina at South Pass (at the south end of the Mississippi delta...the 'urethra' of the nation). The water clarity was not measurable in visibility but viscosity!
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Old 11-10-2015, 07:03 PM   #25
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Ball valve change out

Yikes! Gators!

Ok. I will be prepared for doomsday. Thanks.
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Old 11-12-2015, 11:34 AM   #26
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Update:

After staring at it and cogitating a bit, I've decided to get a Groco flange adaptor for this thru hull/ball valve mount. I don't like the way the ball valve just grabs the first few threads as it is now.

I don't really want to mount the flange to my hull with screws however-- way to much for me to mess up. Really just looking for the extra threads. Maybe mount it with 5200? Why do I have to mount it at all-- just screw that sucker on the TH and then the ball valve.

This thing
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Old 11-12-2015, 11:50 AM   #27
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Check with Parks at Hopkins Carter. They have backing plates with a preinstalles way of attaching the flange to the backing plate.


just 5200 the backing plate down.


Just for info though....getting everything screwed together and lined up the way you want it may mot happen...ie the handle for the ball cock may thread on tight in a bad position....maybe not or maybe it does't matter where you are mounting it.


Plus the flange needs a certain amount of threads,,,have enough? Maybe too many and the flange won't bottom out?


None of these are insurmountable...even with the boat in the water...just the option of time is limited while fitting and guessing...


The flange adapters are pretty slick...what I used...so I wouldn't have to worry about what you are going though now with a 1 piece thru-hull.
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Old 11-12-2015, 12:18 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cardude01 View Post
Update:

After staring at it and cogitating a bit, I've decided to get a Groco flange adaptor for this thru hull/ball valve mount. I don't like the way the ball valve just grabs the first few threads as it is now.
Attachment 46457
If it's just grabbing the first 2-3 threads then you have n NPS throughull on an NPT ball valve....... not a good thing !
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Old 11-12-2015, 12:26 PM   #29
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If I were replacing a ball valve that broke, I would make the assumption the thru hull needs replacing as well. But then again I haul my boat every year for winter storage and replacing the thru hull on the hard is easy.
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Old 11-12-2015, 01:02 PM   #30
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I think you are juggling with Jesus here; I would not do it this way myself, I'd wait until haulout or maybe pull a tarp across the bottom. My own experience with things that concern water is that
1. It will take twice as long as you expect it to and
2. It won't fit like it's supposed to so you will have to go back to the store and
3. The rush of water will give you a huge surprise, you will drop your gadget and it will immediately be grabbed by a bilge ferret which will take it far, far under the genset and you will not be able to retrieve it until your batteries are submerged.
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Old 11-12-2015, 01:21 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by boatpoker View Post
If it's just grabbing the first 2-3 threads then you have n NPS throughull on an NPT ball valve....... not a good thing !
Agree w/ boatpoker...

Previous post deleted - Thanks for the correction psneeld - I didn't realize these were adapter flanges I thought these also had NPS threads
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Old 11-12-2015, 01:32 PM   #32
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Holy cow... ....the flanges are straight threads to work just fine with the thru-hull.....

it's the ball valves that are screwed up when trying to screw on to a straight thread thru-hull...thus the flanges and their straight threads for the thru-hull but tapered for the ball valve on top.

Limit your input here and go back to the install instructions...not everyone is familiar with these flanges and even if they are...I don't even trust some of the things I post...in a rush, one too many wines, boss calling to send me out in crappy weather but trying to help....

For all the hand wringing...you can't find a short haul place for an hour or two for $150 bucks or so? Wait for the next bottom cleaning and do a pressure wash to?
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Old 11-12-2015, 02:20 PM   #33
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Ball valve change out

Yeah. I think I will haul it. Especially since I'm installing the flange now. Getting a little more complicated-- looks like I need to take the backing nut off the thru hull before I install the flange adaptor. More stuff that can go wrong. Guess while at it I will install those threaded backing plates and use some 5200 to glue them down. Make it look all official.

I really wanted to try out my Red Thingy but I guess that will have to wait for a real emergency. 😆
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Old 11-12-2015, 02:40 PM   #34
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Unless you need access under the hull, maybe the yard will allow you to replace the whole kit and caboodle while hanging in the slings at the haulout slip for a discounted price. This way you're out of the water temporarily while the job gets done without flooding risk. But if things go wrong, they can complete the haulout to allow you to correct the situation in the yard on your own.

Glad to hear you've rethought doing this in the water.
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Old 11-12-2015, 03:42 PM   #35
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Me too!
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Old 11-12-2015, 04:11 PM   #36
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I feel much better now , thank you . I can put my nitroglycerin pills back in my pocket .
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Old 11-12-2015, 04:34 PM   #37
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This thread has gotten a little wacky. Some observations:


1. Niether the hat shaped plug or the stepped wrench that holds the thru hull can be used from the inside or at least not with the valve corroded closed.


2. That existing ball valve is probably a tapered NPT thread and since it is screwed onto a straight NPS thread, that is why it is only catching a few threads. Not good.


Study these photo essays of thru hulls- Seacock & Thru-Hull Primer/Pre Information Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com
and valves- Replacing Thru-Hulls and Seacocks Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com


The triangular thru hull base in your picture above looks like the one shown in the first url and is called a flanged adapter plate. It has a female NPS thread that screws onto the thru hull and a male tapered NPT thread that screws on to the ball valve. It does need to be bolted through the hull so it isn't very easy to do it in the water.


So I don't see any easy way of doing it right in the water. If you could dive under and stuff a foam ball in the hole, then you could unscrew the existing ball valve. Then replace it with a Groco flanged adapter. When you do, you will almost certainly need to cut off part of the thru hull's straight thread so it will seat properly. Then you will have to somehow drill through the hull for mounting bolts, ream the hole out for the tapered screw head, push them in from underwater with some sealant under the head and tighten them up with nuts on the inside. Only then can you screw on a new ball valve and be secure.


There is way, way too much to go wrong doing this in the water. I would strongly recommend hauling the boat and do it in the sling.


It is a good thing that you forgot your valve a few days ago. You were about to just screw a NPT thread onto a NPS thru hull.


David
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Old 11-12-2015, 04:43 PM   #38
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"It does need to be bolted through the hull so it isn't very easy to do it in the water."

No it doesn't.

http://dreamgreen.org/boat-parts/182...backing-plates

http://www.groco.net/SVC-MAN-07/Sec4/PDF/IBV-FBV-TB.pdf

"SEACOCK INSTALLATION
FIGURE-1 shows a sample seacock installation with two possible methods ofmechanicallyfasteningshown. On the left side is the method of bolting through the flange, backing block, and hull. On the right side is the method of bolting through the flange and into the backing block, but not through the hull. We consider either method acceptable, as both represent a safe and secure installation."
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Old 11-12-2015, 04:50 PM   #39
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Agree with everything Dave said. I just did 13 of these and would not attempt this job in the water -- especially on my first changeout.

The bible has been written on through hull replacement. Dave and someone else have posted two chapters. Here's the third. If you read this material, it will answer all of your questions.

Seacock Backing Plates / Alternate Method / No Through Bolts Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com

If you don't want to through bolt, you can bond the backing plates to the hull with 5200 or epoxy as the above details. I used epoxy and am extremely pleased with the results.

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Old 11-12-2015, 05:40 PM   #40
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Awesome. Thanks for the backing plate info and the link. Need to read it more thoroughly.

I was just going to use 5200, or would epoxy be the better choice?

Also, does the flange/backing plate take the place nut on the thru hull or does that nut stay on? Actually, that nut on the thru hull must come off or I would have hell removing that thru hull in the future if I cover the nut up with the backing plate and epoxy.
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