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Old 09-14-2016, 08:19 AM   #21
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You guys are scaring me.

I was thinking good surface prep, self-etching primer made for aluminum, and Rustoleum.

I've had good luck with this combination before, but I'm open to hearing why not.
You can certainly do it that way.

But if you want the best looking, longest lasting finish there are other ways to go about it.

Just depends on where you want to end up.
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Old 09-14-2016, 08:25 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by CaptTom View Post
You guys are scaring me.

I was thinking good surface prep, self-etching primer made for aluminum, and Rustoleum.

I've had good luck with this combination before, but I'm open to hearing why not.
This is unfortunately a common problem. I know one Nordhavn owner who has reported very good results using Rustoleum Aluminum Primer, followed by Rustoleum finish paint. Both cans (he posted a picture) were labeled "Professional" which maybe is a different line of paints? I'm not sure. Haven't had to face it yet myself.

Actually, here's the primer https://www.rustoleum.com/product-ca...m-primer-spray

Followed by this https://www.rustoleum.com/product-ca...e-enamel-spray

Sanding off all the oxidation is obviously an important first step.
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Old 09-14-2016, 10:00 AM   #23
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Not trying to denigrate the great advice you are getting for a fabulous finish, but:

I have an aluminum post supporting my FB helm seat. It was originally powdercoated white, but after 10 yrs or so of service the bubbling paint got to me and I pulled out a can of Gloss White Varathane and a small brush and after cleaning with a bit of sandpaper dabbed on some paint. It looked so much better than the original powdercoat, as that was now dull, that I repainted the whole thing. That paintjob is now 15 or 20 yrs old, and needs redoing, but the varathane adhered to the unprimed aluminum just fine for a very long time. Simple fix.
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Old 09-18-2016, 09:50 AM   #24
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My NT's doors, windows, screens are all powdercoat aluminum. As the powdercoat fails, I'll sand area smooth, prime with Pettit's EZPrime, then cover with one or 2 coats of 2-part Pettit EZ Poxy. I use Pettit's 2-part because I can get a perfect match of NT's oyster gel coat (not a pure white) with a 3 to 1 ratio of Yacht White and White Sand. A small good quality artists brush will level out quite well.

The best one-part metal paint I've found, and one that has a near perfect leveling quality is POR-15. POR-15 is a system of cleaners, primers, thinners, and paint. At the minimum, you'll need their thinner (solvent), nothing else works. Note that this paint adheres aggressively, and if spilt or splattered, would be near-impossible to clean up.
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Old 09-18-2016, 10:32 AM   #25
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I have the same problem. I think I will ignore it. From more than 10 ft away I don't see it. I have built and painted an aluminum airplane, and it wasn't too major of a chore, but I was dealing with new aluminum. Airplane was a four step process. Alumiprep, alodyne, epoxy primer and Durethane topcoat. On chinese made extruded aluminum, I think that you could make it look better but I don't want to guess how long it will last. Keep the rest of the boat nice and shiny and nobody will notice. I think it would cost near 20k to switch to the windows with the SS frames. Dan
This is spot of for the paint steps. I'd add a light sand blasting to properly prep the aluminum vs hand sanding.

A decent tape job along with a light touch on a small blaster will give you excellent, cost effective results.

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Old 09-18-2016, 10:44 AM   #26
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Watching this thread with interest, as I may be doing this soon.
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Old 09-18-2016, 12:09 PM   #27
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Aluminum window frames peeling

So far I've done nothing with my frames. I did take some pictures however.

This is the frame with the worst peeling. Upper part of the frame seems good-- just the lower part on the frames are peeling, bubbling. Would be nice if I could just spot paint but it probably wouldn't match.

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Old 09-18-2016, 12:31 PM   #28
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Ah, painted aluminum.... Unless you completely encapsulate the Al in paint, you will be wasting your time. If you do not completely remove all corrosion or if the paint membrane is damaged and water gets in (it's a boat, in the water) with the elimination of oxygen the Al will corrode underneath the paint and you get that lumpy, white surface that we all hate. It's only the filthy rich who can afford to build large aluminum boats, then paint them. Almost as bad as a wooden boat for paint issues.
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