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Old 11-08-2015, 09:16 PM   #21
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Ah, I see. If you use the through bolt method and some epoxy, there should be plenty of strength. Are you not concerned with a smooth roof- line then? Perhaps there is something else you want to mount up there that can be functional as well and incorporate the other side of the bolts?
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Old 11-08-2015, 09:26 PM   #22
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Marty are the beams to allow you to carry heavier loads on top? How are the beams supported on the ends? How is the top made?
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Old 11-08-2015, 09:43 PM   #23
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The beam is basically just a stiffener like the old one was . It's not really for strength . The old one was straight on the bottom and I wanted a radius . It attaches at the sides where the roof turns down right at the uprights that hold the roof up . The old one was attached with screws and bolts . The roof is a fiberglass sandwich with foam core . I have a walker bay on top and a 135 watt solar panel . I can walk on it but that's about it .
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Old 11-08-2015, 10:12 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psneeld View Post
I would also core out where the bolts screws went to a solid plug for water tightness and compressibility...
and glass or fill over top of the bolt screw heads so water could NEVER enter. Both heads with fender washers is just asking for trouble as the slightest movement breaks the sealant joints.
Agree with psneeld re: plug for cored FG -
- that's what I've always seen as recommended best practice... Many reasons - compression, movement, water intrusion.
Counter sinking top of hole (under backing plate or washer) also a best practice

I'd prefer cleaner looking attachment - if bolting why not head on roof top and use a threaded insert in the beam or counter bore from bottom and sink a washer & nut on the bottom - then cover w/ a plug - visible bottom ends up neat & clean and roof top cleaner as well.
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Old 11-09-2015, 07:49 AM   #25
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I was also going to suggest c boring and pugging the visible bolt head for aesthetics. You might need something like a 7/8 plug so you'd have room for the socket on the bolt head.
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Old 11-09-2015, 08:15 AM   #26
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Greetings,
Mr. PM. Re: Post #8. Yes, use thickened epoxy to afix the beams to the bottom of the roof and fibreglass tabbing over a fillet of thickened epoxy as well. Since you say the ends of the beams are in line with the roof supports you might also run a couple of SS lags into each end of the beam on both sides. This would eliminate any penetration of the outside horizontal roof surface and potential for any leaks. IF you do wish to add any fasteners I agree with what has been suggested that the outside heads be countersunk and filled. The only downside I can see using this method would be if the roof flexed sufficiently to crack the bond/fillet.
I'm NOT a fan what-so-ever of 5200 in spite of what "real men" use.
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Old 11-09-2015, 08:39 AM   #27
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Since it is a foam core you cant clamp down on unsupported bolts without compressing the core.
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Old 11-09-2015, 09:13 AM   #28
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I planning on a wide backing plate on the roof to keep the compression spread out some . I guess the top was put on mostly for shade . I don't think it's part of the original build . It was built as a work boat with large reel in center of deck .
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Old 11-09-2015, 09:25 AM   #29
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I would 5200 or epoxy it. I would also if for nothing else bolt or screw it for clamping pressure...heavy duty with also add mechanical strength though maybe not needed just to hold the top on.

I would also core out where the bolts screws went to a solid plug for water tightness and compressibility...and glass or fill over top of the bolt screw heads so water could NEVER enter. Both heads with fender washers is just asking for trouble as the slightest movement breaks the sealant joints.
I have given up on calk so I west system epoxy all things that are perment or even semi, with 404 additive. Apply epoxy to the surface and bold secure in place. This summer had to replace two ceiling beams on the back deck roof because the 5200 calking failed around the teak trim.

I have used carriage bolts as the heads are large and round so they look half way descent.
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Old 11-10-2015, 06:37 AM   #30
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I have used carriage bolts as the heads are large and round so they look half way descent.

The bronze bolts used to hold shaft struts in place are smoothest underfoot .

http://www.chatfieldmarine.com/shop/...rut+Bolts.html
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Old 11-10-2015, 08:33 AM   #31
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even with backing you will be compressing the core.
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Old 11-10-2015, 08:56 AM   #32
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even with backing you will be compressing the core.
Yeah I know I've got compressed core in several areas on the roof. Wherever there is a bolt , screw or whatever there is compressed core . I wish the roof was solid glass or had a plywood core but it's not .
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