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Old 12-06-2015, 07:35 PM   #21
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Local redneck boatsmen use a little heat and a razor blade on the stuff to break it free. And if used on the exterior, paint it to prevent UV breakdown.
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Old 12-06-2015, 07:52 PM   #22
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The little tubes are nice but expensive in regards to their big brothers. I'm guess a lot of it's in the packaging.
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Old 12-06-2015, 07:55 PM   #23
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Greetings,
Mr. HC. "I wonder if a tooth paste cap might fit the threads?" It's bad enough brushing with Preparation H but now you're throwing 5200 into the mix? I don't think so pal....
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Old 12-06-2015, 07:56 PM   #24
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Parks,
Yup .. probably an off the shelf industrial item.
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Old 12-06-2015, 08:01 PM   #25
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Pay attention to the expiry date on the tube. When 42 0r 5200 hundred goes bad in the tube it still looks the same but will no longer cure. I found that out the hard way after putting in a new throughull ! When the Sikaflex gets past its expiry date it goes hard in the tube. I think I'll stick with Sikaflex on throughulls so I won't have to pay for an extra $500 haul out.
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Old 12-06-2015, 08:09 PM   #26
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Pay attention to the expiry date on the tube. When 42 0r 5200 hundred goes bad in the tube it still looks the same but will no longer cure. I found that out the hard way after putting in a new throughull ! When the Sikaflex gets past its expiry date it goes hard in the tube. I think I'll stick with Sikaflex on throughulls so I won't have to pay for an extra $500 haul out.

Is that only on an opened tube or does an expired unopened tube also not cure?
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Old 12-06-2015, 08:30 PM   #27
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Greetings,
Mr. j. I've had unopened tubes of 3M products go hard.
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Old 12-06-2015, 08:35 PM   #28
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Is that only on an opened tube or does an expired unopened tube also not cure?
An unopened tube, the only difference i've noted is it gets very slightly softer.
It happened to me twice. I called 3m about there product not curing and they informed me that they could not guarantee it as it was past the expiry date. Until they told me it had an expiry date I had never noticed it on the tube.
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Old 12-06-2015, 08:47 PM   #29
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Thanks RT and bp.
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Old 12-06-2015, 09:00 PM   #30
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Boat poker, I've never heard of it not setting. 5200 gets hard in the tube. I've thrown away several tubes that didn't get rotated. It has a shelf life of about a year as far as I can tell.
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Old 12-06-2015, 09:04 PM   #31
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Local redneck boatsmen use a little heat and a razor blade on the stuff to break it free.
So does at least one well-traveled, semi-sophisticated "yachtsman."

Using a razor blade, a heat gun very carefully applied, light pressure from a small pry bar or chisel slowly wedged in and plenty of patience, you can separate almost anything bedded in 5200 without damage and without chemicals.
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Old 12-06-2015, 09:45 PM   #32
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Boat poker, I've never heard of it not setting. 5200 gets hard in the tube. I've thrown away several tubes that didn't get rotated. It has a shelf life of about a year as far as I can tell.
I can only relate my own experience with the product. Up here in Canada it goes for almost $20 a tube. I won't buy it again.
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Old 12-06-2015, 10:40 PM   #33
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I have had success removing things bonded with 5200 by heating a metal putty knife with a torch and jamming the hot putty knife into the 5200 space. This has worked on removing windows, cleats and through hulls. I will continue to use 5200 below the water line.
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Old 12-06-2015, 11:12 PM   #34
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Canada! No wonder the stuff wouldn't go off, all the moisture in the air turned into white stuff and fell to the ground. There was none left to cure the 5200!
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Old 12-07-2015, 09:13 AM   #35
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I'd sure like a few tips for removing an item secured with 5200. Can you use heat if the item is secured to fiberglass? Propane torch or heat gun? If not, how?

Thanks
Yes I've heated thru hulls on fiberglass hull with a propane torch and not had a problem. You don't need to heat the metal red hot to get the 5200 to soften and release.
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Old 12-08-2015, 06:51 AM   #36
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Moisture is the curing agent so a light spritz with water on job completion will set enough so the next day it is not a danger to touch.
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Old 12-08-2015, 07:46 AM   #37
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Prybars, wedges, blowtorches, razor blades...

I rest my case. In the wrong application, this stuff is evil.

Maybe I lack patience, but something always gets ruined when removing, and for that matter, when applying, 5200.

Why bother? For 90% of the jobs, 4200 or 4000 is a better option.
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Old 12-08-2015, 08:06 AM   #38
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Prybars, wedges, blowtorches, razor blades...

I rest my case. In the wrong application, this stuff is evil.

Maybe I lack patience, but something always gets ruined when removing, and for that matter, when applying, 5200.

Why bother? For 90% of the jobs, 4200 or 4000 is a better option.


5200 = Satan's glue
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Old 12-08-2015, 08:10 AM   #39
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Greetings,
Mr. LM. "5200 = Satan's glue". Agreed and you can add Home Despot RTV silicone to the list as well IMO.
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Old 12-08-2015, 10:14 AM   #40
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Bunch of sissies! Afraid of a little stickiness. Like I've said before, real men use 5200.
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