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Old 04-06-2014, 08:38 AM   #41
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One of the best general purpose cleaners we've ever used is Simple Green. It is biodegradable and works for just about everything, including cutting grease. It comes in a concentrated gallon size that has lasted us for 5 years when diluted for general cleaning. Diesel won't stand a chance if you use Simple Green in a less diluted way.
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Old 04-06-2014, 07:32 PM   #42
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Wow Ron, Just shows us the we should always give people the benefit of the doubt. Sounds like you see the world "half full", verses "half empty" like so many people do, good for you!

Enjoy, it could be worse!

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Old 04-07-2014, 06:45 AM   #43
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>One of the best general purpose cleaners we've ever used is Simple Green.<

You bet ,,a cup every few weeks in the bilge could save on from the SHEEN POLICE.
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Old 05-29-2014, 12:51 AM   #44
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Hey everyone! Thanks for all the old post regarding a diesel spill.my next project is a roof on top of the fly bridge.its 10 x14 ft. I need a spot for solar and thats my idea.want to do it for around $2000.im not sure if I should plywood it then wrap it with glass.it sounds like alot of weight and time and cash.I shopped around with not much luck.so I found a fabricator who said he could do it in metal the have the whole thing galvanized dipped, then he would powder coat it for $2000.so this is what im leaning towards.I have several questions on liveaboard living and the best toys for getting around.jet ski.inflatable.for fishing taking friends around...anyways dont wanna overwhelm you all with to much.but you have alot of answers that help.sometimes scary and not what I wanna hear but you guys are living it so im all ears.thanks Roofless.lol p.s. im sure this is in the wrong place but a man was kind enough to move it for me.so I will figure it all later.thanks Ron
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Old 05-29-2014, 07:27 AM   #45
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I have built deck house roofs with nadia core.

This is a modestly cheap core material .

A flat floor is used to lay up one side , usually 1 layer of 1 1/2 oz mat , then a layer of 24 oz woven roving , then another layer of the mat.Laminating resin , not finishing resin.

Let it harden overnight in a dry place.

The single layers of glass on one side will allow the piece to be carefully turned over.

It will be as floppy as cardboard so a couple of folks are needed.

Then slide as much lumber (2x4 -2x10) under the center to give it as much camber as you desire . Usually 2 pieces , a center spacer and 2 more for either side to get a nice smooth curve.

Then repeat the lay up as done for the first side , but since it will be walked on the layup will require one more 24oz roving and another layer of mat.

Should take a couple of hours per side so if you have never worked GRP, hire a fellow for 2 mornings.

This should weigh 2.5 lbs per sq ft and if supported handle a deck load of folks on a fly bridge

If the boat will frequently have a MOB on the fly bridge , turn the section over again and use cardboard tubes cut in half the long way as stiffeners forms and glass over them with layers of tape .
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Old 05-29-2014, 08:43 AM   #46
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NidaCore is supposed to be used with vaccum compression. If left on its own to harden, it is less rigid when walked on. Search on boat design for answers.

Another site that will help is the Hull Truth
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Old 05-30-2014, 06:59 AM   #47
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If left on its own to harden, it is less rigid when walked on. Search on boat design for answers.

That is why the proposed laminate is far heavier than would be done in a factory setup.

Pay for an extra 50 lbs of GRP or pay thousands for a lighter production item plus delivery?
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Old 05-30-2014, 10:04 AM   #48
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300 gal of diesel in my bilge

Aluminum is the only way to go drill, tap, rivet, or weld all equals no rust!!
I would never use steel in a overhead cover, it will alway be a headache to prevent rust as soon as you mess with the finish. I would not powder coat it most paints don't stick well to that surface at a latter point. Aluminum is easy to work with, do most of the fabrication your self and have someone weld it up for you. If you can find a shop with a plasma cutting table they can make your roof rafter and that will speed up the process.
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Old 05-30-2014, 12:20 PM   #49
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Speedy full recovery!
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Old 05-30-2014, 01:05 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funangler View Post
Aluminum is the only way to go drill, tap, rivet, or weld all equals no rust!! I would never use steel in a overhead cover, it will alway be a headache to prevent rust as soon as you mess with the finish. I would not powder coat it most paints don't stick well to that surface at a latter point. Aluminum is easy to work with, do most of the fabrication your self and have someone weld it up for you. If you can find a shop with a plasma cutting table they can make your roof rafter and that will speed up the process.
Steel is fine for the hull, keel and decking, but no way - no how for a superstructure or overhead. Aluminum - 7-9mm 5083-5086 is the best choice.
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