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Old 04-26-2014, 07:18 AM   #21
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A sea water flush does not stink , the sea water standing in the bowl as creatures die stinks.

We flush as normal , and when the bowl is dry squirt a shot of fresh into the bowl from the sink shower sprayer.(if leaving the boat for a few days).

No smell.Not much water used.1 Cup perhaps.
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Old 04-26-2014, 11:44 PM   #22
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I have had very good results on a cruising sailboat that was used in the Sea of Cortez for 4 seasons. I am going to install the same system on both of the heads of my trawler. This is a small in line tank that installs in the sea water intake line. It is designed to take a deodorizing tablet that slowly dissolves with each flush. It is a double walled PVC tank and it would not be easy to duplicate. The tablets are very expensive, so I just cut a Tidy Bowl type of tablet in half and it drops into the tank. These are the type of tablets that you drop into the tank of household toilets and it turns the water blue. I believe that it is a deodorizer with some bleach but it never seemed to hurt the head valves or the hoses. The idea of adding the deodorizer with each flush seems to work. The name of the manufacture of the tank is Head-O-Matic Tankette.
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Old 04-26-2014, 11:58 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FF View Post
A sea water flush does not stink , the sea water standing in the bowl as creatures die stinks.

We flush as normal , and when the bowl is dry squirt a shot of fresh into the bowl from the sink shower sprayer.(if leaving the boat for a few days).

No smell.Not much water used.1 Cup perhaps.
FF is "dead" right. Sea water doesn't stink, our boats are floating in it. Unhealthy systems stink. Lack of ventilation ie: pathetic little vent hoses is the main cause in the holding tank. Don't put chemicals in the bowl, when flushed it will kill the little buggers getting rid of the stink. A bit of fresh water in the bowl if it's going to be there long.
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Old 04-27-2014, 12:55 AM   #24
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Yep, I agree with FF & Daddyo on this.

Very simple, no plumbing and it works.
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Old 05-12-2014, 06:26 PM   #25
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So2 (rotten egg gas) is your problem - solution is to flush the toilet half a dozen times when you first get on the boat to clear the stale sea water from the line. If you flush the toilet once you leave the smelly water in the bowl to stink the boat out with.
I guess your problem happens when you first get on board but you never clear it out so the whole boat stinks.
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Old 05-13-2014, 01:08 AM   #26
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When I leave the boat I usually put a kettle of water in it pumping it through. No stink.
Forget = stink.
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Old 05-13-2014, 08:24 AM   #27
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Fresh water in the bowl is the solution, but that assumes that the bowl holds water over time. For Joker valve equipped heads, the only permanent solution to keeping water in the bowl is a vented loop in the discharge line. The water level can be set (at the time of installation) by adjusting the height of the loop. I set the ones in our boat to maintain water level about an inch above the sump.
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Old 07-09-2014, 11:59 PM   #28
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By the way thanks for your book my wife bought it online and it has helped me develop a bilge cleaning process that has done amazing things
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Old 07-10-2014, 12:47 AM   #29
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A sea water flush does not stink , the sea water standing in the bowl as creatures die stinks.

.
I find that a lot of the time the smell is coming from the organic matter that gets caught in and under the bowl rim and rots there. If you take the bowl off and flush those passages out with high pressure water and then bleach while adding an inline strainer to the raw water flush line, your head will stay smelling fresh from then on. Other than when you let raw water stand in it to long. Or that first flush of stale water you get after you have been away for a while.
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Old 07-10-2014, 08:23 AM   #30
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I find that a lot of the time the smell is coming from the organic matter that gets caught in and under the bowl rim and rots there. If you take the bowl off and flush those passages out with high pressure water and then bleach while adding an inline strainer to the raw water flush line, your head will stay smelling fresh from then on. Other than when you let raw water stand in it to long. Or that first flush of stale water you get after you have been away for a while.
Another really good reason to use a fresh water head. Virtually eliminates odors from the rim of the bowl up to and including the holding tank. Keep the chemistry correct in the holding tank and you'll reduce those nasty head odors.
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Old 07-10-2014, 09:51 AM   #31
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Today I am dealing with a dead shower sump rule bilge pump. For the last 3+ weeks I have been using the bilge pumps to evacuate the shower water for 2 and it stinks. I pitched 1 ind the sump and 2 in the bilge tabs used in hot tubs and BOOM...stink gone. Any thoughts out there of un intended consequences?
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Old 07-10-2014, 10:03 AM   #32
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If they are chlorine tabs, can cause some problems with rubber hoses and other stuff that doesn't like chlorine.
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Old 07-10-2014, 10:27 AM   #33
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George while I agree and think Chlorine has no place in a properly working holding tank it or something similar is used in the Raritan PuraSan Type I treatment system.
Technically it's the last device before the waste is treated and then discharged.
What about Bromine instead of Chlorine? Food for thought...
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Old 07-10-2014, 10:45 AM   #34
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Our local pool guy bud suggested bromine would be better than chlorine, but he also hesitated to recommend using even that. (He's not a boat guy.)

I found some store-brand toilet bowl cleaners that are marked chlorine-free and phosphate free (but do contain "borax, anionic and nonionic surfactants") and I'm trying one of those in one of our AC condensate pans.

That pan also happens to be plumbed to the shower sump... so my intent is to see if it will perhaps freshen the condensation and then trickle down to keep the show sump a bit cleaner (extend time between cleanings).

Haven't had it in there long enough to draw any conclusions, yet, but the water in the sump is blue now.

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Old 07-10-2014, 11:10 AM   #35
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Our local pool guy bud suggested bromine would be better than chlorine, but he also hesitated to recommend using even that. (He's not a boat guy.)

I found some store-brand toilet bowl cleaners that are marked chlorine-free and phosphate free (but do contain "borax, anionic and nonionic surfactants") and I'm trying one of those in one of our AC condensate pans.

That pan also happens to be plumbed to the shower sump... so my intent is to see if it will perhaps freshen the condensation and then trickle down to keep the show sump a bit cleaner (extend time between cleanings).

Haven't had it in there long enough to draw any conclusions, yet, but the water in the sump is blue now.

-Chris
Chris have you thought about installing the Mermaid AC Venturi devices? These worked great for me in my Mainship for well over 6 seasons.
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Old 07-10-2014, 01:57 PM   #36
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Yep, Bill, I have... but it hasn't bubbled to the top of my wallet yet. And probably if I don't have to, I won't.

Apologies for drift, Peggie,; got distracted by the shower sump thing

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Old 07-10-2014, 02:42 PM   #37
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George while I agree and think Chlorine has no place in a properly working holding tank it or something similar is used in the Raritan PuraSan Type I treatment system.
Technically it's the last device before the waste is treated and then discharged.
What about Bromine instead of Chlorine? Food for thought...
Bill
I was responding to Mule using it in a sump.

Personally we never found the need to treat our waste tank with anything but a supply of fresh air.
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Old 07-10-2014, 02:44 PM   #38
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Thanks George I misunderstood the post my apologies.
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Old 07-10-2014, 07:54 PM   #39
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Ok, bad splice @ float switch, now 1 bad bilge pump an out of 2 neither operates off a float switch even though power 24-7....more work to come.....BTW....Needed engine room dwarf. Competitive pay, quarters in engine room provided, time off under weigh...summer quarters provided under fly bridge shield if requested.
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Old 07-30-2014, 03:22 PM   #40
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I add a splash of vinegar in the bowl with the seawater after the flush n fill
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