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Old 06-19-2008, 09:49 AM   #21
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RE: Windlass problem...

Quote:
Marin wrote:

FWIW here is the relevant page from the Sprint 600 manual. I notice it states to "re-grease as necessary."
Marin, I saw that.* I just didn't know what the objective of that section.* I was gonna take it apart just to take a look at it and grease it up.* That was my next step.
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Old 06-19-2008, 11:19 AM   #22
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RE: Windlass problem...

Keith---

I didn't notice the avatar status change until you pointed it out just now. I have no idea why that title has been applied unless it's a joke, which would be appropriate since about the last thing I am when it comes to boating is a "guru." (Floatplanes are another matter )

In the Grand Banks world the title of "guru" is certainly appropriate to people like Bob Lowe, Mike Negley, Tom Overs and others who each have forgotten more about boating in general and Grand Banks in particular than I will ever know. Over in the general boating world delivery skipper Capt. Mike Maurice and electrical wizard Arild, regular participants on the Trawlers & Trawlering list, are certainly gurus in their areas of expertise. Our good friend, cruising companion, and sometimes-forum-participant Carey knows worlds more about boating than I do. I'm forever asking him for advise on the best way to do this or that, which would make him a sort of "guru," I guess.

But not me.
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Old 06-20-2008, 04:38 AM   #23
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RE: Windlass problem...

I was gonna take it apart just to take a look at it and grease it up. That was my next step.

High quality front wheel bearing grease, is waterproof , takes high temperatures and is fine on bushings (cheap windlass ) or bearings (better windlass).

The old standby Lubriplate is easier to wash out when the windlass submerges than bearing grease.

FF

-- Edited by FF at 05:39, 2008-06-20
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Old 06-20-2008, 08:17 AM   #24
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RE: Windlass problem...

Thnaks FF!!
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Old 07-05-2008, 07:01 AM   #25
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RE: Windlass problem...

Hey John - didjya ever get that beast apart??
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Old 07-11-2008, 12:35 AM   #26
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RE: Windlass problem...

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Chris Foster wrote:

Hey John - didjya ever get that beast apart??
Yes I did.* The motor came off with a gush of rust colored water that was IN the motor!!!!* I am thinking it is time for a new motor.* Just getting prices on it now.* We'll see how it shakes out.* It is a very basic moeld of windlass that costs about $700 if I need to replace.* Not bad but hopefully I can get away with a lot less than that.
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Old 07-11-2008, 03:35 AM   #27
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RE: Windlass problem...

Just getting prices on it now. We'll see how it shakes out. It is a very basic moeld of windlass that costs about $700 if I need to replace. Not bad but hopefully I can get away with a lot less than that.


If you need to replace the unit , look at the US made IDEAL.

Many of the smaller sizes are simply car starter motors , an EX rebuild when needed.

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Old 07-11-2008, 06:29 AM   #28
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RE: Windlass problem...

Mr. Baker,
** You may want to look into a rebuild of the existing unit IF it is salvagable.* A good generator/alternator/electric motor shop should be able to give you an estimate.* Granted, a new unit does have it's advantages (plus added $$) but by rebuilding your current unit it will give you an opportunity to totaly dissasemble it and become familiar with it's workings for future trouble shooting.* If going with new, FF's suggestion has merit.
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Old 07-11-2008, 08:27 AM   #29
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RE: Windlass problem...

Thanks folks. There is an old alternator shop that Brent(on here sometimes) recommended in our area where he has had work done and is happy with it. I was gonna give that a try as well. And FF, you are right. It looks exactly like a starter motor. If I were gonna go new I would get the same one(or the replacement one since they don't make it anymore) strictly for plug and play simplicity and also the boat is for sale.
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Old 08-10-2010, 03:33 PM   #30
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RE: Windlass problem...

Well, as it turned out it was not the motor or the fuse or any of that....my wife's boss tore it down and found out what the issue was. It was a poor design....design flaw. I did not fully understand what he was talking about but got the general gist. Basically the mechanism holding the gears in place tightens or binds under load. IOW, if you could flip the windlass over where on the other side where up was down and down was up it would make more sense since there is no load on it while you are lowering the anchor. Load it up and the whole mess tightens up and binds. He tried to fix it and it held for awhile but it is now doing the same thing. He said he would give it another go....except this time he would spot weld it instead of just using locktite. We will see.....

BTW...this thing is not being made anymore....I wonder why???
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Old 08-10-2010, 07:57 PM   #31
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RE: Windlass problem...

Quote:
FF wrote:If you need to replace the unit , look at the US made IDEAL.
Having had 8 boats since 1995 and Ideal, Maxwell, etc windlasses, my present Muir is the best so far. This damn thing is bullet proof!




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Old 08-13-2010, 04:33 AM   #32
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RE: Windlass problem...

This damn thing is bullet proof!


The problem is eventually everything has an end.

Many IDEAL use a Chebby auto starter motor as the power.

Easy to get rebuilt locally bu any auto-electric shop.

The cost is so low a spare could even be aboard.
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Old 09-14-2010, 10:05 AM   #33
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RE: Windlass problem...

Quote:
SeaHorse II wrote:Having had 8 boats since 1995 and Ideal, Maxwell, etc windlasses, my present Muir is the best so far. This damn thing is bullet proof!
*I note in the photos that your Muir windlass has a capstan drum on top, yet the hawsepipe is built in to the body of the windlass as it is on my Lofrans Progress 1.* What in the dickens is that capstan drum used for?* How do you use it?* I'm gobsmacked.* I am even considering taking this dude off and replacing it with a horizontal Ideal--at least I understand that unit.
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Old 09-14-2010, 11:27 AM   #34
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Windlass problem...

Quote:
Chris491 wrote:What in the dickens is that capstan drum used for?* How do you use it?
My answer is* I don't use it!* Were I deploying 2 anchors (the second one having all line rode) it would be used for that purpose. I think of the capstan as a "winch". Retrieving anything (people?) from the water, "warping" the boat against a strong wind to the dock, etc. If needed, it can be a very useful tool.

You may want to check this site out for a better explanation. | Capstan Winch
*


-- Edited by SeaHorse II on Tuesday 14th of September 2010 11:45:00 AM
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Old 09-14-2010, 12:13 PM   #35
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RE: Windlass problem...

Quote:
Chris491 wrote:What in the dickens is that capstan drum used for?* How do you use it?

*
Walt's Muir is no different in concept and function than the horzontal Lofrans we have on our boat.* The line gypsy has all sorts of uses.** We use ours to break out our anchor with the trip line if we have to back it out from under logging debris or if it simply buries itself too deep to break out in the normal way.* When we were figuring out which windlass to get to replace the big no-name horizontal windlass that came with our boat, I read a testimonial about the Lofrans from a charter skipper with some sort of big sailboat in the Carribean who uses the line gypsy on their Lofrans to raise the foresail (the Lofrans is a pretty fast-turning windlass).* And so on.

As Walt said, a powered line gypsy can be a very useful tool even if you don't use it to actually deploy and retrieve the anchor.



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Old 09-14-2010, 08:46 PM   #36
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RE: Windlass problem...

i have the same Lofrans as marin. I use 200 ft of chain backed by another 200 of nylon line, so the drum hauls in the line, then change over to the gypsey for the chain.
Hauling speed is 1 foot per second,as is lowering. I have also used the drum to retrieve the prawn traps. reduces backache.
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Old 09-14-2010, 09:44 PM   #37
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RE: Windlass problem...

Some windlasses have a wildcat that can accomodate both chain and line. The wildcat on the Lofrans we have can't do this, hence the separate line gypsy. But the nice thing about a line gypsy is that you can "play" the load depending on how many wraps you take around the drum, which is something you can't do with a dual-purpose wildcat.
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