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Old 04-05-2016, 06:13 AM   #21
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I've done it a few times. Much easier on the Raritan than my prior manual head.
Was referring to the lack of smell not the difficulty level of the job - it is one of the easier jobs - except for the smell!
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Old 04-05-2016, 06:16 AM   #22
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Whizzit that the joker valve is the first thing anyone suggests is the culprit for ANY sanitation system problem?
Thing is, it certainly sounds like the thing hasn't been maintained since he bought the vessel.

So, since he should do the maintenance anyway, I would start with that and see where he is before he starts anything else.
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Old 04-05-2016, 08:10 AM   #23
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Whizzit that the joker valve is the first thing anyone suggests is the culprit for ANY sanitation system problem? I get emails from people whose toilet has decided not to bring IN any flush water, and the first thing they say they did was check the joker valve.

Most likely this problem isn't the joker valve or even in the toilet...the holding tank vent is blocked. All tank vents--water, fuel and waste--have two primary functions: to provide an escape for air in the tank displaced by incoming contents and to provide source of air to replace tank contents as they're drawn out. When a waste tank vent becomes blocked, air can't escape through the vent so the tank becomes pressurized, creating backpressure as the air seeks to escape wherever it can...the toilet discharge line is the line of least resistance. And that's the most likely reason your toilet is "burping." A blocked tank will also make it impossible to pump more than a gallon or two out before the pumpout or macerator pump pulls a vacuum. An especially strong pumpout pulling against a blocked vent can even implode a tank. And you weren't too far off when you wondered if your toilet was getting ready to explode, 'cuz if a tank becomes sufficiently pressurized, it can cause an eruption back through the toilet or even burst the tank.

Tank vent blockages are especially common in the spring 'cuz mud daubers just LOVE to build their nests in vent thru-hulls. So before you do anything else, get out a screwdriver or an ice pick or whatever works and scrape/dig whatever has set up housekeeping in your holding tank vent thru-hull. And you do that from OUTSIDE the boat. Don't use the toilet again or attempt to pump or dump the tank until you're sure the vent is clear. Chances are, if it's been at least several hours since the toilet was flushed, enough air will escape through the toilet to relieve the pressure, but I'd still be verrrrry careful when you open the cap on the decK pumpout fitting. And don't even THINK of removing the vent line from the tank until you're 100% certain the system isn't pressurized.

If your vent thru-hull is the usual cap with a slit or a few tiny holes in it, best thing you can do is replace it with an open bulkhead or "mushroom" thru-hull that you can stick a hose nozzle up against and backflush the vent line to keep it clear. As is true of most things, prevention is easier than cure.

Dave, you said, " I may have to rethink my system as I move to a freshwater flush system."

Why? As far as the holding tank is concerned, flush water is flush water...whether it's fresh or sea water.

Cardude...I'll be glad to help you sort out how your toilet--the whole system--works and how to maintain it. It's not rocket science, just a short learning curve that, once you understand it, will help you prevent problems instead of fixing 'em.

Oh yeah. I forgot about that tank vent! I will check that first. Thanks!

Peggy, I bought your book and read it, but I'm still uncertain about the system. I've had an ongoing battle with some smell issues but started using some Nolfex and keeping the holding tank rinsed out better. Boat a smells better, but when I lift the hatch where the hoses are it's still pretty smelly down there. Did the rag test and it came away smelly so I guess I know what needs to be done eventually. 💩
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Old 04-05-2016, 08:45 AM   #24
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Dude, you're hosed....
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Old 04-05-2016, 09:14 AM   #25
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Can't you hire the marina to do the stinky stuff?
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Old 04-05-2016, 11:14 AM   #26
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Dude, you're hosed....

Lol. It would appear so.
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Old 04-05-2016, 11:16 AM   #27
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Can't you hire the marina to do the stinky stuff?

I really don't like hiring people. I prefer to whine while I flail around and attempt to repair things myself. 😁
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Old 04-05-2016, 11:25 AM   #28
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Loopy Kiwi had problems with his vents this link shows some of the details he found when he replaced the lines with bigger, its interesting he found screens on the vents some pic's in his blog


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Old 04-05-2016, 11:32 AM   #29
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Can't you hire the marina to do the stinky stuff?
The problem as I see it is this. Say you hire a dock monkey to pump your holding tank. Are you certain they will flush out your tanks twice after pumping it? Are you certain they will backflush the vents in the process?

I don't like pumping my holding tank, but it is quick, easy, and I want it done right.

The other thing is that pumping the holding tanks on my boat is one of the few things that I actually feel competent doing.
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Old 04-05-2016, 12:13 PM   #30
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ok...I am going to cut the vent off from the outside and try to fish another thru the hull..hopefully a better type as I have the same fuel vent type there now...hey experts..should the vent hose be straight out or should there be a curve to the hose to prevent odors or back-up?(like a p-trap). mine seems to have a dip down about 12" mid way in its travel to the outer vent...?
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Old 04-05-2016, 12:34 PM   #31
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ok...I am going to cut the vent off from the outside and try to fish another thru the hull..hopefully a better type as I have the same fuel vent type there now...hey experts..should the vent hose be straight out or should there be a curve to the hose to prevent odors or back-up?(like a p-trap). mine seems to have a dip down about 12" mid way in its travel to the outer vent...?
Ask Peggy of course, but if you are going to replace the vent line, I would use as large a diameter as you can and make sure that it is as straight as you can get it without any dips. I have to believe that low spots WILL cause a vent blockage at some point. In my mind, the vent is not just to allow the displaced air to escape, but to allow O2 to circulate into the tank to help with the aerobic breakdown of the waste.
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Old 04-05-2016, 01:09 PM   #32
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When we replaced our holding tank way back when, we replace the screen type vent fitting that went through the hull with a bronze thru hull and increased the size slightly to 1". The hose comes out of the top of the tank straight up for 12" then turns down to the vent so there are no low spots for anything to collect in within the run of the hose. It has worked great with no clogs or smells with the Vacuflush using a little Canndure added to the tank after each pumpout.
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Old 04-05-2016, 01:33 PM   #33
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BTW, get a mask when you do this particular job.
And get lots of rags to place under the toilet when you undo it. Have a trash bag with ties at the ready as well.
Oh nonsense! Rebuilding toilet does NOT have to be a smelly job, or even a messy one...nor are rags a good choice to catch any spills.

There are TWO rebuild kits for the PHII--PHIIRK for the version built before 06/92 and a PHIIRKC for the version built after 6/92, and not all the parts in 'em are interchangeable. So rebuilding a PHII starts with making sure you have the right kit for YOUR toilet.

Rebuilding any toilet is only a nasty job if:

a) You don't do it as scheduled preventive maintenance--which you get to do on your terms at your convenience--resulting in the need for a repair, which you never get to do on your terms when it's convenient. It's called PREVENTIVE maintenance because it prevents the need for 99% of repairs. A nasty smelly job is the price you pay for neglecting it. If kept well lubricated and rebuilt every 5-6 years as PREVENTIVE maintenance, a PHII can provide at least 20 years of reliable service.

b) Even if you do decide to rebuild before neglect leads to catastrophic failure, you don't take the time to prep for the job before taking anything apart. Preparation is 90% of the key to the success of any job.

Prepping to rebuild a toilet starts with thoroughly rinsing out the pump and plumbing--the whole system--with plenty of clean water before taking anything apart.

Put plastic garbage bags or disposable aluminum pans under hose connections to catch any spills. (Warming hoses with a blow dryer makes them easier to remove and replace).

Have a couple of rolls of paper shop towels (super heavy duty paper towels, all I've ever seen are blue) handy...you'll need them.

Every rebuild or “service” kit includes a copy of the parts list with exploded drawing. If it’s missing, download and print one from the manufacturer’s website. That drawing is the only “instructions” you’ll get, so keep it close at hand and refer to it. Use the camera in your phone to take photos of the parts you're replacing while they’re still in place and compare them with the drawings to make sure you get the new part oriented correctly and/or installed in the right order if you had to remove more than one at a time..

Finally, put a healthy squirt of thick teflon or silicon grease (SuperLube, available from Ace Hardware is the best choice) into the pump to lube the toilet last thing before you put it back on the base. Raritan includes a one-use tube of SuperLube in the kit. Full size tubes are available from Ace Hardware.

When putting the discharge fitting back on the pump after replacing the joker valve, be careful not to over-tighten the bolts/screws. The flange on the joker valve (which, by the way, should align vertically) is the gasket that seals the fitting connection to the pump body. You want that connection to be leak proof, but over-tightening the screws/bolts will put puckers in the flange, actually causing it to leak. So start by tightening all the screws just enough to barely achieve a snug connection, then only an additional quarter turn or even less of all the screws if necessary close off a leak.
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Old 04-05-2016, 01:36 PM   #34
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Real







Stanky







Job.









Good luck.
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Old 04-05-2016, 01:42 PM   #35
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ok...I am going to cut the vent off from the outside and try to fish another thru the hull..hopefully a better type as I have the same fuel vent type there now...hey experts..should the vent hose be straight out or should there be a curve to the hose to prevent odors or back-up?(like a p-trap). mine seems to have a dip down about 12" mid way in its travel to the outer vent...?
NOT the way to do it! We need to talk...I'll be glad to help you do it the right way.
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Old 04-05-2016, 03:11 PM   #36
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I am surprised any one here farts or even uses the crapper if stink is a big deal....


Really..... only ice cream comes from you lightweights?......
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Old 04-05-2016, 03:22 PM   #37
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Greetings,
Further to my repair/rebuild of the aft Raritan Crown last year, the same exercise will be performed on the forward crapper in the coming months. I have no trepidation what-so-ever of diving in. I do NOT anticipate any smells, mess or insurmountable problems. Kind of looking forward to it, in fact.

As Ms. HM stated, proper flushing and preparation is the key. What initiated the service in the first place was backwash into the bowl after flushing. Replacement of the joker valve, in this case, rectified the problem entirely.
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Old 04-05-2016, 03:45 PM   #38
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Replacing the joker valve didn't actually solve any problem, it only relieved the symptoms. Whatever was pushing flushes back to the toilet is still doing so, the joker valve is just temporarily blocking the "door" to the bowl.
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Old 04-05-2016, 03:52 PM   #39
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Greetings,
Ms. HM. Well, isn't that what the joker valve does in a properly functioning system? Block the door to the bowl? If not, what is it supposed to do then? Vent is free and clear.
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Old 04-05-2016, 03:59 PM   #40
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I am surprised any one here farts or even uses the crapper if stink is a big deal....


Really..... only ice cream comes from you lightweights?......
Wait until its dark and hang everything over the transom/swim platform, or go for a short swim - against the current of course!
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