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Old 08-18-2013, 08:49 PM   #21
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try thisGates hose and couplings: Central States Hose, Inc. 2009
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Old 08-19-2013, 07:01 AM   #22
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Mike

Is your usual berth in Rodney Bay?

Marty
On the hard in Rodney Bay's Boat Yard.
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Old 08-19-2013, 05:34 PM   #23
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Marty,

In the lagoon, roughly opposite the Charthouse.
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Old 08-20-2013, 12:03 PM   #24
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OK, I've done some homework. If you decide to add or modify a hi-pressure water-maker hose, and want to/have to do it entirely yourself, here are the basics:

You need "field-attachable" or "re-usable" brass or stainless fittings plus hose that is compatible with these fittings. I am using Gates products which means type C5 field-attachable fittings and type C5D hose. Aeroquip, Parker etc may well make similar products. The only tools required are the correct size wrenches and a means of cutting the reinforced hose to leave clean ends - a Dremel with cutting wheels works well. Assembly involves screwing the fittings onto/into the end of the hose

Gates part numbers for 5/16" hose are:
Fittings: #6C5-6RFSXB - (around $8.00/Ea.)
Hose: #6C5D (around $5.50/ft.)

Google the part numbers to find vendors.
These two links may help with the numbers:
C5 Field-attachable fittings
C5D Braided hose
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Old 10-29-2013, 04:53 PM   #25
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I finally received the Gates hose fittings and have installed the new copper pipe secured with cushion clamps. One connection is visible, the other is obscured by the primary sediment filter. It works as well as I had hoped with no detectable vibration - what a contrast to the way it was! Rick, I did not ignore your caveat about using copper pipe. I constantly check machinery while it is running and hope to see a weep before it becomes a flood. My engine room lighting is pretty good and that should help. Thanks to all for your input.
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Old 10-29-2013, 07:11 PM   #26
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Rick, I did not ignore your caveat about using copper pipe. I constantly check machinery while it is running ...
Nice looking installation! Very professional job and well done.

I doubt you will have any problems with the copper but if you want to reduce the mess if it did ever break, cover the tubing with clear plastic tube. That way a crack won't spray all over the place.
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Old 10-29-2013, 08:13 PM   #27
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I finally received the Gates hose fittings and have installed the new copper pipe secured with cushion clamps. One connection is visible, the other is obscured by the primary sediment filter. It works as well as I had hoped with no detectable vibration - what a contrast to the way it was! Rick, I did not ignore your caveat about using copper pipe. I constantly check machinery while it is running and hope to see a weep before it becomes a flood. My engine room lighting is pretty good and that should help. Thanks to all for your input.
Mike: Great success and thanks for posting what you ended up doing. It's nice to see a thread go the complete circle.
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Old 10-29-2013, 09:37 PM   #28
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Thanks for the kind words guys. Rick, that would be an elegant piece of insurance wouldn't it? If only I had thought of that before flaring the ends.
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Old 10-29-2013, 10:26 PM   #29
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Thanks for the kind words guys. Rick, that would be an elegant piece of insurance wouldn't it? If only I had thought of that before flaring the ends.
cut the hose spread apart and install over the copper lines, put the split down...it will direct the leak down...mostly. Zip tie it every so often and your done. If you have a leak it really makes a mess of the old fiber "sound insulation" tiles.
HOLLYWOOD
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Old 10-30-2013, 03:42 PM   #30
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Hollywood, sounds like you speak from personal experience there! Actually that is a pretty tempting idea. I used small pieces of spilt clear hose a sleeves because the cushion clamps didn't grip the copper pipe tightly enough - a longer piece would cover both issues.
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Old 10-30-2013, 09:10 PM   #31
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On my boat it is possible to see a blue paper towel in any location that has ever leaked. The blue highlights even the smallest leak.
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