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Old 04-13-2018, 09:15 PM   #1
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Water tank issues

Ok I have two water tanks that are built in and original to the boat and both are seeping at the fitting at the bottom of the tank . I have two aluminum fuel tanks that Iím not currently using that are basically the same size as each water tank . I can either repair my built in water tanks or maybe replumb the two fuel tanks for water supply. We only use the water for shower and washing dishes .if I use these two fuel tanks for water I will still have 300 gallons of fuel capacity. Can I flush these two fuel tanks to where they are at good enough for my water needs?
Or would you repair the original water tanks?
I could probably cut the tops out and repair or install a couple of poly tanks in their place. Suggestions please.
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Old 04-13-2018, 09:20 PM   #2
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Is the fitting that leaks at the bottom accessible? If yes I would try to repair the leak. Is the leak at the tank due to a crack at the fitting?

L
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Old 04-13-2018, 09:34 PM   #3
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Is the fitting that leaks at the bottom accessible? If yes I would try to repair the leak. Is the leak at the tank due to a crack at the fitting?

L
The leak is at the fitting and accessible from the
outside but I’m not sure how the fitting is mounted to the tank, it’s right in the corner . I’m gonna look at it better this weekend.
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Old 04-13-2018, 10:39 PM   #4
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What material are the water tanks made out of?
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Old 04-14-2018, 12:56 AM   #5
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I won't say never, but it's difficult to get all the diesel out of the tanks. In Vietnam we had water tanks made out of 55 gallon drums that had contained diesel. They were steam cleaned, used for a short time, re-steam cleaned, soaked with detergent, baking soda, and probably other things I don't want to know about. We didn't drink the water, (we caught rain water) but a couple months later still could taste the diesel in the water. Initially we could feel the diesel on our skin or anything we washed. We paid locals to do laundry. When out in the boats, if we came across a clear stream, we'd wash there.
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Old 04-14-2018, 01:29 AM   #6
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If you ever sell the boat, it will be easier if you fix it.
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Old 04-14-2018, 01:30 AM   #7
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I won't say never, but it's difficult to get all the diesel out of the tanks. In Vietnam we had water tanks made out of 55 gallon drums that had contained diesel. They were steam cleaned, used for a short time, re-steam cleaned, soaked with detergent, baking soda, and probably other things I don't want to know about. We didn't drink the water, (we caught rain water) but a couple months later still could taste the diesel in the water. Initially we could feel the diesel on our skin or anything we washed. We paid locals to do laundry. When out in the boats, if we came across a clear stream, we'd wash there.


Whatís the matter? Diesel smell and taste good lol

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Old 04-14-2018, 06:44 AM   #8
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I would attempt the repair in place.

No matter what you find epoxy and some thinking should work.
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Old 04-14-2018, 07:23 AM   #9
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Greetings,
Mr. PM. I agree with the "repair it" posters. What's the worst that could happen? A water leak again? On the other hand, re-purposing the diesel contaminated tanks could present a whole batch of other problems as noted by Mr. L. I'm thinking here of absorbing residual hydrocarbons through the skin and/or leaving traces of same on dishes.

Fix it. Heck what else do you have to do with all your spare time?
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Old 04-14-2018, 08:22 AM   #10
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You say the water tanks are built in, to me that implies fiberglass. Cut what ever access holes you need to replace the leaky fitting then patch the holes or install an access plate.

I donít like aluminum water tanks and I would never put water In a tank that once held fuel even if I wasnít going to drink it.
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Old 04-14-2018, 10:37 AM   #11
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Indeed. Oil can affect rubber seals in heads etc.
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Old 04-14-2018, 11:13 PM   #12
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Before making any decisions you need to find out what the tanks are made of and how the fittings are attached. Maybe they only need to be resealed.

If fiberglass then there is no reason the area cannot be repaired. I would use epoxy on a fiberglass tank. If the tank is frp and the attachment is poor or the area mount is thin it may simply need a patch built up to produce some real thickness and strength.

But first find out what they are made of and how the fittings attach.
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Old 10-30-2018, 06:50 PM   #13
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Ok I finally dug into one of my tanks . They both have mushroom type thru hull plastic fittings. Iím positive this where theyíre leaking. When I turned the flange nut it didnít take much to break what little of a seal that was on the mushroom side inside the tank and crack fitting. I canít reach the fitting through my inspection port so Iím going to use a coat hanger to fish out the fitting. I want to go back with something better. The tanks are fiberglass made to the boat and what I can see they look pretty good on the inside. The bottom of the tank is the hull. I left the starboard side in so you can see what Iím working with. If I can repair from outside it would be great . Iím looking for suggestions. Thanks
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Old 10-30-2018, 07:37 PM   #14
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Marty, those look like cheap un-reinforced plastic fittings. They get brittle over time, but should last many years in that application.

I would replace them with reinforced plastic fittings like Tru Design sold in the US by Raritan.
http://raritaneng.com/product-catego...gn/thru-hulls/

Banjo bulkhead fittings and hose barbs might be another way to go.

Bulkhead Fittings/Tank Accessories

Banjo Hose Barb Fittings
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Old 10-30-2018, 07:51 PM   #15
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Quote:
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Marty, those look like cheap un-reinforced plastic fittings. They get brittle over time, but should last many years in that application.

I would replace them with reinforced plastic fittings like Tru Design sold in the US by Raritan.
http://raritaneng.com/product-catego...gn/thru-hulls/

Banjo bulkhead fittings and hose barbs might be another way to go.

Bulkhead Fittings/Tank Accessories

Banjo Hose Barb Fittings
Thanks Parks. I like the looks of those sst bulkhead type fittings . Do they have a gasket on each side? With it being sst I could tighten pretty good. I guess I could run a wire up thru the hole wth the fitting on it and pull it up against the inside of the tank and tight the outside flange nut .
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Old 10-30-2018, 08:16 PM   #16
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Marty I think they just come with one gasket that would be on the inside of the tank.

Banjo makes a lot of useful stuff. I used their hose connectors to set up an emergency bilge pump system.
Banjo Blk PP
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Old 10-30-2018, 08:27 PM   #17
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Marty I think they just come with one gasket that would be on the inside of the tank.

Banjo makes a lot of useful stuff. I used their hose connectors to set up an emergency bilge pump system.
Banjo Blk PP
I think they will work if I have enough room for the diameter of the nut to sit flush against the tank. The hole is pretty close to the bottom of tank next to the hull.
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Old 10-30-2018, 09:16 PM   #18
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If it wonít fit, you could patch the existing hole and drill a new one that would clear the hull. Or just grind a hole in the hull to get clearance...
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Old 10-31-2018, 11:08 AM   #19
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I picked this bulkhead fitting up locally today just to see if I have enough room between the exit hole and hull for flange nut . The flange nut is left hand threads and there is a 1/2Ē female pipe in center and gasket for inside the tank .
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Old 10-31-2018, 02:00 PM   #20
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I picked this bulkhead fitting up locally today just to see if I have enough room between the exit hole and hull for flange nut . The flange nut is left hand threads and there is a 1/2Ē female pipe in center and gasket for inside the tank .
Looks perfect. I suspect if you had a mushroom head thru-hull there previously, this ahould fit.
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