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Old 12-09-2018, 02:28 AM   #81
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Pack Mule,

Here's another couple approaches - forget the off the shelf rotomold tanks. The reason you see those odd shapes as that at some point in the past, a boat builder or RV builder has commissioned the molds for that shape to suit their installation need. You could likely find something "that will work", but you can do better.

With your fabrication skills , it appears you could either:

- Make a mold, and build a custom fit fiberglass tank. Working with glass is not all that hard, and you would maximize your water storage that way, plus be able to make the entire installation to your liking, AND be able to modify or fix it yourself if it ever has a problem.

- Find a local welder who will weld your job together, and save money by cutting the pieces yourself. Doing the cutting yourself lets you ensure the size and fitting placement will work best for your boat. You could end up with a custom fit stainless steel tank that will last decades.
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Old 12-09-2018, 10:36 AM   #82
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Thanks Solly that’s s good idea . The tank mfg claims it needs full support on all sides. I’ve thought about starboard also but not the pvc pipe. Do you think starboard would make the bend of the tank? Maybe three frames out of 3/4 starboard and then bend a piece of 1/4” starboard and screw to frames ?
I don't think I've ever seen a tank with full support on all sides !! Maybe a built in one. They really should put baffles inside but that would make the price out of sight.

I'd go for good support underneath and something to keep it from sliding around and call it good. I was thinking of the PVC when I saw the half round stringer and thought it wouldn't rot. Also I'd want to see how slippery the starboard is with the tank sitting on it.

I put another water tank ( 40 gal.) in that sits on a plywood base with a ratcheting strap to hold it in place. Seems to work. Doesn't slide and the tank walls seem to be strong enough to resist the water sloshing around.
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Old 12-10-2018, 08:38 AM   #83
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I think it’s time to STOP back up and regroup. The more I mess with this “off the shelf” tank I can see it doesn’t make sense. Compared to my old tank area this tank is just not going to set low enough for me. This is what I think the profile of the tank is and it’s only the bottom half, there is another 7” or so of tank above this. You can see how far it’s going to be from the bottom of my original tank area and it’s almost to the old top then I have to add 7” to that.
William already has enough of a snappy roll and I’m afraid it will just get worse adding the extra weight higher up, Y’all hang with here. I don’t want to loose my motivation.
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Old 12-13-2018, 06:27 PM   #84
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The profiles available of off the self tanks just are not working. Now I’m considering having a stainless steel tank custom made. I made a template of the forward end of the tank today. I’ll make an aft end template tomorrow, there is a little difference in the two ends. This will be the port tank . If I get it right the starboard tank should be a mirror image. .
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Old 12-14-2018, 06:39 PM   #85
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New tank mock up for custom build out of stainless steel. If the tank will be supported on all sides will 16 gauge stainless steel be sufficient?
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Old 12-14-2018, 11:00 PM   #86
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Marty, I’m not an expert but my guess it is strong enough to hold it's shape but can you weld it? I think metal that thin is usually spot welded and your going to need a continuous bead weld. I may be wrong but I’d ask the welder.

I love your wood work. I’m Mr. Two By and Ply, the Crappy Woodwork Guy. I have business cards that say so.
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Old 12-15-2018, 03:45 AM   #87
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Marty, I’m not an expert but my guess it is strong enough to hold it's shape but can you weld it? I think metal that thin is usually spot welded and your going to need a continuous bead weld. I may be wrong but I’d ask the welder.

I love your wood work. I’m Mr. Two By and Ply, the Crappy Woodwork Guy. I have business cards that say so.
Parks, I’m planning on using the guy that built my davits. He’s a young farmer that does body work and builds custom cars for fun. He’ll probably bend whatever he can and then weld the rest and maybe weld some small angle over the welds. He custom fits turbos in tight areas with with sections of thin stainless pipe cut in all kinds of angles to get the curves he needs,tack welds it together and then welds it solid after he’s satisfied with the fit.
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Old 12-16-2018, 10:01 AM   #88
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I think I would go with 1/8". 16 gauge is only 1/16". 0.125 vs 0.065. Stronger and a little easier to weld. Still probably need to skip weld it and fill in.
I think my aluminum fuel tank is .125 and it's 200 gallon.

I'd also make it sized to fill the space. Can't have to much water ! If your worried about the roll put some baffles in it too.
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Old 12-16-2018, 01:19 PM   #89
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I think I would go with 1/8". 16 gauge is only 1/16". 0.125 vs 0.065. Stronger and a little easier to weld. Still probably need to skip weld it and fill in.
I think my aluminum fuel tank is .125 and it's 200 gallon.

I'd also make it sized to fill the space. Can't have to much water ! If your worried about the roll put some baffles in it too.
Thanks , If we I build it out 1/8” I’ll have to take out the side of the old tank so I can slide it into place instead of dropping it in , but I could do that. 1/8” would probably weigh about a 100 lbs or more .
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Old 12-16-2018, 07:20 PM   #90
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Looking at your pics again it seems you have support to the front, back, bottom and 1 side. If you could fab support on the 1 side ( inside ) left you could go with a flexible tank.
Maybe reconsider that now that you have the access and open space...
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Old 12-16-2018, 07:36 PM   #91
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Looking at your pics again it seems you have support to the front, back, bottom and 1 side. If you could fab support on the 1 side ( inside ) left you could go with a flexible tank.
Maybe reconsider that now that you have the access and open space...
I’ve got support on all sides. The only thing I’ve cut out is the top of original tank.The new tank will be around 40 gallons , 10 gallons less than original. I had to build it smaller because of the hatch I had to through and also a deck support I had to work around. The new mock up nest in the hull almost perfect.
I don’t know what it is about a bladder but I’ve never liked the idea. I’m sure they’re fine.
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Old 12-17-2018, 02:10 AM   #92
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1/8 sounds much better than 16 gauge. 16g can be welded, but how will those welds hold up over time...

Regarding SS or other tank fabrication/installation, see this link I had found a few months ago, its written by a TF member you probably know, the sections in green deal with tank installations...

http://stevedmarineconsulting.com/wp...Pt2-153-03.pdf

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Old 12-17-2018, 05:34 AM   #93
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1/8 sounds much better than 16 gauge. 16g can be welded, but how will those welds hold up over time...

Regarding SS or other tank fabrication/installation, see this link I had found a few months ago, its written by a TF member you probably know, the sections in green deal with tank installations...

http://stevedmarineconsulting.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/WatzzzerSystemsPt2-153-03.pdf

David
Thanks for the link David , I’ve read about using 316L instead of 304.My davits were built from 304 about five years ago and so far no rust is showing up at the welds . I’m in fresh water so it will probably take longer for them to rust. But for the tank it looks like 316L is the way to go and 1/8” thick.

I’m afraid I’m going to wind up cutting the deck to drop in the tank because of weight, now it’s starting to get over my expertise. If I did cut the deck open I could build the tank to original size and just drop in then, but that means I would probably have the get the yard involved $$$$. I may be looking to a plastic tank fabricator. At least now with the latest mock up I have the size,shape and fit to the hull right. Sooner or later I’ve got to make up my mind and go for it.

Here is a picture of my davits that the welder I’m going to use for the tank made. I made him kind of a mock up for these first.
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Old 12-17-2018, 06:15 AM   #94
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"Sooner or later I’ve got to make up my mind and go for it."

Go for the plastic already made tanks.

Safer than SS long term ,far cheaper, way less hassle and the slightly reduced volume might only be a hassle on rare occasions.


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Old 12-29-2018, 06:06 PM   #95
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Custom well made pot water tanks available from Miller Plastics Burkettsville pa. 10 yr warranty. I reolaced both my old ss tanks made H less to get in door. Very nice. Great company to work will. See website.
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Old 12-29-2018, 07:03 PM   #96
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I'm not sure why you would have such a problem with bladder tanks. Seems in this instance, with the full support of the original tank sides, a custom or even off-the-shelf bladder as previously linked dropped inside of the existing tank carcass would be easy-peasy.

In airplanes, we would retrofit "wet" wing tanks that eventually leaked (wet wing is using the actual wing skins as the tank) with bladder tanks instead of dealing with the nightmare of chasing wing tank leaks.

The ATL custom would be a no brainer. Probably wouldn't even need to worry about the stringer in the middle as they could probably custom that in.

http://www.atlinc.com/potable-drinki...der-tanks.html

Also... why not make mock-ups in heavy cardboard instead of luan ply...

Good luck!!
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Old 12-30-2018, 08:12 AM   #97
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Thanks guys , all good suggestions. I’ve found a plastic tank that will work. I’ve just been dragging my feet a little.
Fly bull I use plywood because I’m a woodworker and it’s easier for me to work with and it will stay stiff like a hard plastic tank when I’m cramming it through the tight areas. I was afraid cardboard would bend and change shape when forced through tight areas.
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Old 12-30-2018, 08:23 PM   #98
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Thanks guys , all good suggestions. I’ve found a plastic tank that will work. I’ve just been dragging my feet a little.
Fly bull I use plywood because I’m a woodworker and it’s easier for me to work with and it will stay stiff like a hard plastic tank when I’m cramming it through the tight areas. I was afraid cardboard would bend and change shape when forced through tight areas.

Roger that.

Hope all goes well with the new tank !!
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Old 01-04-2019, 04:06 PM   #99
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As far as durability of a SS water tank, I have a 70 gallon tank of SS. A prior owner replaced the original 1970 monel tank decades ago. I am sure the tank is 25 or more yrs old. It is a continuous machine welded construction.
It is bent into a rectangle and the ends are welded on.
Fill and vent is on top edge, and outflow on bottom side. It is not .125" thick. I would guess it is .060 to .080" thick sheet metal. And the tank is perfect. It sits on wood stringers, not plywood and is open on the bottom exposed to the bilge. So it does not stay wet on the outside, only on the inside. It is boxed in with 3/4 plywood bulkheads. If I had to remove it, the gen would need to be lifted out of the aft lazarette. I did remove the one plywood side to inspect it yrs ago.
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Old 01-22-2019, 05:08 PM   #100
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New tank came in today from Ronco. They were great to deal with. This tank should nest almost perfect to hull. If this works like I want it to on the port side , I’m planning on ordering another for the starboard side. This tank is only 20 gallons but it will get us by for now.
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