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Old 10-13-2014, 06:33 AM   #21
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If I need hot water, just run the gen for 20min.

20 min may create hot water but even with a 250A charging system it wont do much for the house batts.
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Old 10-13-2014, 08:20 AM   #22
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Torrid.

With engine heating loop and, if you have it, another loop via your hydronic heating unit. No generator required.
Agreed. With our boat in BC heating via engine loop or genset is all we need. We could if desired hook up the hydronic heater loop. Replaced 20 gallon Seaward (junk construction) with a 17 gallon Torrid.
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Old 10-13-2014, 08:30 AM   #23
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Now that is an interesting question.
The waste heat from a small genset cannot match the main engine waste heat and genset impellers are usually a lower head unit than what one would see on a main engine.
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Old 10-15-2014, 05:49 PM   #24
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I replaced mine last winter with a 6 gal. Raritan with engine loop. Had a small problem with the 180 engine temp tripping the reset breaker after a run. Raritan was very good with replacement of the breaker AND follow-up after installation. I had a valve installed at the engine to cut off the loop easily, as the 180 water is too hot and the unit recovers in about 15 min. on A/C power. If I had it to do over, I would not have replaced with the heat exchanger option-I only did cause the old unit had it & was already plumbed for it. Could have saved about $100 bucks & I really don't plan on using the loop-only in a pinch. I am very happy with the unit.
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Old 10-16-2014, 06:02 AM   #25
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>as the 180 water is too hot<

That is why folks install scald prevention devices.
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Old 10-16-2014, 07:11 AM   #26
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Water Heaters

I installed a Quick Nautic Boiler water heater in my last boat. Stainless tank, urethane insulation, high efficiency heat exchanger. This was a nice unit for a reasonable price. It's worth taking a look to see if it meets your needs.
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Old 10-16-2014, 10:38 AM   #27
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Interesting item and something to think about.

You Can Make A Difference..... - SailboatOwners.com

This would also allow you to set your t-stat on electric much higher giving you more effective hot water.

I found the unit at Home Depot solid brass and $70.00

3/4 in. Brass Hot Water Extender Tempering Valve - Lead Free-3/4 LF70A at The Home Depot

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Old 10-16-2014, 09:14 PM   #28
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Torrid! I have a Torrid manufactured 10 gallon water heater on my boat that still cranks out the hot water. According to them the serial number dates to 1985! The only thing I have done is to replace a leaky T&P valve.
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Old 10-16-2014, 10:06 PM   #29
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There's a UK company which selsl fully insulated double coil copper cylinder calorifiers with 1kw immersion elements in various sizes specifically designed for marine use.
They are asapsupplies.co.uk,
I appreciate there are shipping charges to consider, but when you've just spent zillions on your pride and joy what's a few more bucks in comparison for the comfort ?
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Old 10-16-2014, 11:02 PM   #30
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They are nice looking units indeed. http://www.asap-supplies.com/marine/...orifier-520330
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Old 10-17-2014, 06:33 AM   #31
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1kw immersion elements in various sizes specifically designed for marine use.

I have always thought that the units should be built with 3 locations for electric use.

A BIG element for living big with 240V 50A service , a 700W unit for 120V and a simple plugin and a 50W element in 12V for use after the wind or solar has topped up the batts , so power would be >free<.
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Old 10-17-2014, 08:43 AM   #32
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Quote:
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Torrid! I have a Torrid manufactured 10 gallon water heater on my boat that still cranks out the hot water. According to them the serial number dates to 1985! The only thing I have done is to replace a leaky T&P valve.
We had the same one and loved it. Change or replace the anode. You may get another 30 years out of it.
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Old 10-17-2014, 08:32 PM   #33
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Maybe the Isotemp spa I have is a copy. It also comes with the mixing valve to adjust water temp and the same arrangement of fittings.
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Old 10-17-2014, 09:57 PM   #34
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I installed a 20 gallon tank with extra insulation on it. It will stays hot for over 24 hrs if I'm not using it.
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Old 10-18-2014, 11:20 AM   #35
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Timely topic! I am also in the market for a hot water heater, I noticed the other day my 6yr old 12gaI Raritan is Leaking out the bottom from somewhere. Does it ever end!!!! There is however some reaIIy good ideas here! I think an electric unit with the Loop connected to the genny (not main engine) and a tempering valve makes perfect sense and I confess I wouId never have thought of it. Seems to me that if you are running the genny "anyway" to make power to heat the water, why not recover some of that otherwise Lost genny heat to heIp heat the tank. I'm aIso going to put in a bypass as was suggested but the plan is to use both heat sources simultaneous not "either/or" . Difficult to say the net effect but does it reaIIy matter, you either recover some of this Iost heat or you don't. The onIy probIem I see is the possibility that the genny could actuaIIy work against the electric elements and cooI the tank until it warmed up.


(appoIogies for incorrectly using the Ietter I everywhere, the L on my keypad is kaput)
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Old 10-18-2014, 11:30 AM   #36
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Here's a recent thread that talked about doing that.

What size hot water heater?
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Old 10-20-2014, 01:30 PM   #37
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N4712.
We have recently purchased a 42' ex hire boat cruiser which we're refurbishing and just today we ordered a 75 litre tank from asap-supplies.
Our experience on a previous unit is that the copper/polyurethane tank with the anti-scald mixer valve holds the heat much better than a stainless one with heavy fibreglass wrap, the height of the tank should also be level with the engine (if possible) to stop thermal convection.
Hot water is via the engine loop, the 1kw immersion heater we can run off either shore power or 4KW inverter via domestic battery bank/solar panels.
Everyone adapts to their own cruising pattern and we found this the best combination that suits us.
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Old 10-21-2014, 06:12 AM   #38
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the height of the tank should also be level with the engine (if possible) to stop thermal convection.

Interesting concept!
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Old 10-21-2014, 07:47 AM   #39
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N4712.
We have recently purchased a 42' ex hire boat cruiser which we're refurbishing and just today we ordered a 75 litre tank from asap-supplies.
Our experience on a previous unit is that the copper/polyurethane tank with the anti-scald mixer valve holds the heat much better than a stainless one with heavy fibreglass wrap, the height of the tank should also be level with the engine (if possible) to stop thermal convection.
Hot water is via the engine loop, the 1kw immersion heater we can run off either shore power or 4KW inverter via domestic battery bank/solar panels.
Everyone adapts to their own cruising pattern and we found this the best combination that suits us.

Rambler thanks for the info.

Our current water heater is still chugging along so we're going leave it alone till it decides it wants to leak.

We'll probably go with an American MFG for the sake of ease of installation.
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Old 10-21-2014, 02:04 PM   #40
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The guy from Torrid was worried that it I try to change the anode after all these years it just might kill it.

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We had the same one and loved it. Change or replace the anode. You may get another 30 years out of it.
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