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Old 01-22-2016, 04:11 PM   #41
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FWIW, my boat came with a home model water heater. Works fine for us, but we don't spend weeks on anchor.
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Old 01-22-2016, 04:29 PM   #42
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...The good news is the 750 watt element heats as fast or faster because of design and insulation than the cheapo 6 gallon models with fiberglass batts and only 750 watts allows more appliances on that 110V buss
I agree that the 750 watt element allows more loading on the 110V buss, the Isotemp may hold the water temperature longer because of a better design but heat water as fast or faster than a 6 gallon with a 1500 watt element?

I do see where Isotemp offers a 1200 watt element as an option. If we went with an Isotemp I think I'd go with that element. Less generator run time with a quicker recovery rate.
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Old 01-22-2016, 04:42 PM   #43
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Never clocked the time to heat...just think the insulation on the fiberglass stuffed ones lost so much heat so quickly...the tortoise beat the hare in the race.

Maybe not faster but have never had to wait very long for someone else to jump in the shower and get a long enough, hot one.
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Old 01-22-2016, 05:15 PM   #44
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To use a house unit you might want to install a check valve to keep the HW tank from draining back, and be sure the accumulator is after the check valve so it can accept the expansion of the heated water,
FF, I'm not sure I follow could you clarify? My systems outlet from the pump goes directly to the accumulator tank, the outlet from the tank then goes to the fresh water distribution manifold, one of these manifold outlets then goes through a check valve directly into the cold water inlet of the HOT water heater. Is this correct?
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Old 01-22-2016, 08:22 PM   #45
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IIRC, the ground and neutral are tied together only at the source, which would be your generator or the distribution transformer supplying the dock power. Not in any "boxes".
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Old 01-22-2016, 09:00 PM   #46
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My 17 gallon Torrid uses 110V. I prefer glass lined tank with engine heat exchanger so stuck with boat variety tank on last replacement.
Sunchaser---- How has your experience been with Torrid?

The PO of our boat installed a new 10-gallon Atlantic Marine stainless tank on a shelf in an aft head cabinet. It was heated by the engine coolant from the starboard engine or 120vac from the generator or groundpower cable. It was a very good, very highly rated unit but unbeknownst to us the shelf under it--- which had been built for supporting toilet paper, not a 10 gallon water heater--- bent, cracked, and sagged unevenly putting a twisting force on the water heater. In the early 2000s the water heater began to leak at a seam which may or may not have been related to the twisting.

We called Atlantic Marine about buying a direct replacement and learned they had just gotten out of the water heater business as their units were proving to be too expensive to make for the return. But they had one identical to ours in stock and they sold it to us at half price just to close out the line (retail had been some $600 or more as I recall).

After removing the leaking unit I built a new shelf that is strong enough to land a plane on and installed the new water heater. To date it has performed flawlessly.

But nothing lasts forever and I expect that one day it will need replacing. I've heard good things about Torrid's products, plus they are right here in Seattle. But I so far don't know anyone with a Torrid, hence my question.

Thanks,
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Old 01-22-2016, 10:15 PM   #47
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I have the same unit...2 showers back to back no problem...

I just don't like the proprietary heating elements...after my first one...I may make an adapter for a conventional one.

The good news is the 750 watt element heats as fast or faster because of design and insulation than the cheapo 6 gallon models with fiberglass batts and only 750 watts allows more appliances on that 110V buss
That's good to hear; thanks. (Although two "normal" showers are probably equal to 0.5 showers for my wife.)
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Old 01-22-2016, 10:52 PM   #48
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Sunchaser---- How has your experience been with Torrid ,
In 2012 fall I asked the local yard which unit they would go with to replace the failed Seaward. They said Torrid based upon recent experience with dozens of tear outs and installs. As you note they and a few other great marine product suppliers are in the PNW.

The Torrid has been good so far and never a shortage of hot water. High quality construction with marine grade hardware and electrics.
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Old 01-23-2016, 06:45 AM   #49
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"Is this correct?"

If it has been working , don't do a thing.

If the replacement HW unit is larger in water volume the water expanding against the check valve could be a problem.
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Old 01-23-2016, 09:17 AM   #50
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That's good to hear; thanks. (Although two "normal" showers are probably equal to 0.5 showers for my wife.)
A boat shower involves getting wet, turning off the water, soaping up and then turning the water back on to rinse. That's why most boat showerheads have a shut off on the head itself. You might have to explain that to your wife.

Some folks will go so far as to jump into the (sea) water for the first step and only use boat water as a final rinse.
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Old 01-23-2016, 09:25 AM   #51
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Good luck with getting most people, including men to take sea showers.


The woman that travels with me said 'as long as it's NOT like camping"....a common sentiment.


And yes I went to sea back in the days where salt water was piped into the shower heads except one day a week.
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Old 01-23-2016, 10:02 AM   #52
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Where domestic water heaters and other household appliances, and marine AC wiring in general, are concerned, neutral to ground connections should only be made aboard a vessel in select locations, at a genset and inverter, when and only when they are the source of power. If wired properly, this is automatic, no user input required. If the vessel is equipped with an isolation/polarization transformer then a neutral to ground connection is made there as well, with one difference, it's continuous because the transformer behaves like a power source whenever the vessel is plugged into shore power. Otherwise, under no circumstances should there be a connection between neutral and ground anywhere else aboard. This often confuses non-marine electricians in that they are accustomed to bonding neutral and ground busses in main panels. If an inappropriate neutral to ground connection is made aboard, then the water in which the vessel floats becomes part of the return path, which in turn creates an electrocution potential. This bond can also bypass a galvanic isolator, which increases the likelihood of galvanic corrosion, however, the corrosion is not a direct result of the shore power, it's simply a side effect of the neutral to ground connection fault.

This applies, once again, to domestic, non-marine water heaters and other appliances.
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Old 01-23-2016, 10:26 AM   #53
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The good news is the 750 watt element heats as fast or faster because of design and insulation than the cheapo 6 gallon models with fiberglass batts and only 750 watts allows more appliances on that 110V buss
We switched this year from a 1500 watt Torrid to a 750 watt Isotherm. The lower draw allows us to leave the water heater "on" all the time so that when the generator is running the water is heated. With the old 1500 watt unit the draw had an effect on the generator frequency when we added the two chargers. Since we normally run the generator for a half hour in the morning and a half hour in the evening we have hot water 24/7. Happy with the 750 watt unit.
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Old 01-23-2016, 10:43 AM   #54
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Where domestic ....

Wow Steve. I didn't know you were lurking around here. Big fan of your work. Welcome and thanks for your participation.
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Old 01-23-2016, 06:38 PM   #55
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I just installed an Isotemp 8 gallon unit. May sound small, but a guy I know who has one says the built in mixing valve tends to double the capacity. We shall see. Engine or AC-heated, SS tank and it can be mounted horizontally (as shown) or vertically. Since this photo was taken, I removed the platform it's on and bolted the wh to the bulkhead; this allowed me to lower the unit to make room for a new charger/inverter above it.
Very nice!!!

Good brand too, just spendy...
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Old 01-23-2016, 06:56 PM   #56
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Very nice!!!

Good brand too, just spendy...
There are 2 price levels on the isotherms...

The higher end ones have stainless outers...the cheaper which I went with have plastic shells...not sure of any other differences...but happy with plastic...seems durable.
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Old 01-24-2016, 03:18 AM   #57
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There are 2 price levels on the isotherms...

The higher end ones have stainless outers...the cheaper which I went with have plastic shells...not sure of any other differences...but happy with plastic...seems durable.
Bought the plastic shell as well. I was assured by the technical staff that the units were identical except for the material of the shell. On some boats the water heater is exposed to abuse (given its location) that justifies the stainless steel.
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Old 01-24-2016, 07:18 AM   #58
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My 8yr old grossly over priced 20 gallon Raritan hot water heater is leaking. To replace it is a ridiculous $800 for what appears to be a low end unit of questionable quality. Mine is a measely 1200 watt and doesn't even have a drain or engine connections. I'm thinking of replacing it with a non-marine Whirlpool unit from Lowes for $299. It is 1500 watt and has a drain as well as`side and top connections.

Has anyone tried a non-marine unit or know of any reason not to? I figure even if I have to replace it every 6 to 8 years I'm still ahead of the game.
Hey there Kangeroo, I had a household 40 gallon electric water heater on my previous boat for many, many years. Worked great. Modern domestic heaters are quite well insulated but adding an insulation blanket (from Home Depot) does help greatly.

You may wish to consider either a solar water storage tank (with a double wall loop for your engine coolant) or a British clarifier which you can get with two loops. For the same price as your 8 gallon marine unit you can have 40 gallons.

Too bad you don't have a steel hull because that simplifies life - TT grounding system - easy as pie.
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Old 01-26-2016, 09:29 AM   #59
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"Good luck with getting most people, including men to take sea showers.

The woman that travels with me said 'as long as it's NOT like camping"....a common sentiment."

The simple solution is a 50 gal domestic HW heater with the thermostat set very high.

This would allow at least 60 G of water for the shower.

With a legal shower head that should be at least a 20+ min shower., till the water cools.

If this is not enough time , just as batteries can be paralleled , HW heaters can too,, a bank of 3-5 could get way over an hour.

It would be far less expensive to have a Psyc find out what the real problem is , but there are EZ solutions.
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Old 01-26-2016, 10:25 AM   #60
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FF...after 4 major trips and being aboard for Superstorm Sandy....and all the issues and breakdowns and colder than usual nights.....


I told her, "I lied...it's a bit like camping sometimes"
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