Water in bilge - source found

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frgeorgeh

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 2, 2012
Messages
372
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Ten Knots
Vessel Make
42' Californian LRC
Been fighting water collecting under my V-berth bilge. I thought it might be a leaky toilet hose cause of the smell.

Found issue today. Bad bilge sump pump for master shower - all the way in rear of the boat.

Lesson learned? Stay wide eyed and don't think just because water is in one part of boat that the problem is up there with it!
ImageUploadedByTrawler Forum1432317529.505003.jpg
 
Congrats! I almost hate shower sumps as much as poop issues...almost
 
Have a similar problem. The yard is checking this out at this very moment.
 
Watch those wires around the float switch. Don't want them to become a source of hanging it up.

We had the same issue. The AC condensation drain also goes into that same sump for the aft unit. Took me a while to figure why the bow kept holding water.
 
Well, not so fast. I replaced the pump, the pump ran but box still filled with water and ran out top. I suspect a plugged outlet drain now. If so that could have killed the last pump.

Back to making the walk of shame to the Marina showers for now. Poo! No, not poo this time! Thank God!
 
Use a shop vac to suck out the overboard drain.
 
"Readymade all in one box" sump filters need periodic cleaning. Easily overlooked, not the most popular job,or the most accessible, but necessary.
 
Whale Marine - Products

One of the best improvements I've made. Disconnect all the other stuff. install this. No filters, no clogging no smell. The thing will pump hair, fingernail, etc. haven't tried pebbles yet.

Howard
 
Just noticed something else in you photos above. A box of insulated butt connectors. These appear not to have heat shrink. You should always do your connections with heat shrink connectors (the best have adhesive) to avoid corrosion issues. If not you will end up doing it again.

I always when possible try and use block connections. This way in the future when you have to replace a pump or float switch all you have to do is remove a couple of connection screws and put on some ring connectors thighten and your done.
 
It's some what counter productive to use heat shrink ring terminals then attach them to an exposed terminal block. If you're going to use a terminal block at least put it in a splash proof box and coat the block with BoeShield or something like it.

Better yet, put the terminal block in a water tight box.
 
I had the same problem. That small piece of hose that connects to the pump has a check valve in it. On mine it was bad. Removed it and all worked well.
 
I had the same problem. That small piece of hose that connects to the pump has a check valve in it. On mine it was bad. Removed it and all worked well.


Wow! I need to check that. Never occurred to me there could be a valve in there. Thanks. I will let u know.

As for the wiring. That is how I found it. Cleaning it all up as I go to include dielectric grease and proper terminals and butt connectors. The terminal block is high enough out of the way that I will skip a cover for it. Actually surprised there was even a block there!
 
Whale Marine - Products

One of the best improvements I've made. Disconnect all the other stuff. install this. No filters, no clogging no smell. The thing will pump hair, fingernail, etc. haven't tried pebbles yet.

Howard

Exactly what we did 15 years ago, have never looked back and it just works with no maintenance, smell or mess ....:thumb::thumb::thumb:
 
Exactly what we did 15 years ago, have never looked back and it just works with no maintenance, smell or mess ....:thumb::thumb::thumb:


That is cool. Learning all the time. I love it! Thanks so much.
 
Congrats! I almost hate shower sumps as much as poop issues...almost

Which is why…in my far from perfect boat (I've learnt to accept this)...I am happy to just let my shower drain by gravity into the forward main bilge, where I can easily see if there is any shenanigans developing. 'lot to be said for the KISS principle, even though several folk said "yuk", at the thought of shower water going out via the bilge.

But yes, as I have said before, and hmason just made same comment with a link, if you want to have a shower sump, a Whale Gulper diaphragm type pump in it, switched manually ideally, just when needed, (KISS again) and sent direct to a through-hull, which can be shared by some other above waterline outlet, is the way to go. Then no need for seacock closing, anti-siphon set-ups, or anything else to go wrong or clog.

What did you do in the end Mark..?
 
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We had shower water overflowing the custom sump box, which led me to remove the top plate and clean up and test the bits inside. The soap/detergent water helped get rid of the diesel fuel from a now replaced fractured fuel line (between L120 lift pump and filters) so it came in handy, but I`d not want it as the norm.
 
Ah…are you saying there Bruce, that the period you allowed the shower water to run into the bilge, while you sorted out the sump, helped clean out old diesel spill fouling..? If so, why would you not have been happy to continue that process, other than just the knowing it's regarded as "not the done thing"..? It has FF's approval as a method.
 
My issue is that if I don't use the sump box the water that collects in fed bilge begins to stink and has to be removed manually. The bilge pump just can't get that last few inches.

I also must admit to bing a little OCD about having a dry bilge. Can't help it.
 
My issue is that if I don't use the sump box the water that collects in fed bilge begins to stink and has to be removed manually. The bilge pump just can't get that last few inches.

I also must admit to bing a little OCD about having a dry bilge. Can't help it.

Frg, totally agree in your case of, I think, living aboard, or going out for long periods, the shower into the bilge is not so good, and the Whale Gulper Pump in a decent sump is definitely the way to go. I was really meaning that for the occasional overnighter/odd weekend/week or two, outings, the simpler bilge discharge way works ok.
 
Greetings,
Mr. frg. "...a little OCD about having a dry bilge..." I hear ya brother. I can FULLY appreciate your feelings. I used to be the same but I've learned to live with a slightly wet bilge that doesn't stink. Regular (every couple of months or so) cleaning helps minimize any odors with an occasional splash of bilge cleaner or pleasant smelling soap/detergent goes a long way in eliminating odors.
During my recent preparations for our long term in water storage I discovered our forward Y-valve or one of the attendant connecting hoses is seeping effluent-EWWWW! I just left it as it was too late to effect a proper repair and it will or should not be used in our absence. Yup, one MORE thing on the to-do list (pretty well near the top).
You seem to be right on top of "problems" that you are discovering and the only thing I can comment is...Keep at it. The list DOES eventually get shorter or so I keep telling myself.

bbym.gif
 
What I'm finding now a bit depressing RTF, is having owned the boat and been working on it solidly for most of the 13 years since purchase, I am starting to find things I had already done, repaired, or in some cases even installed new, need doing again already…Rather like the painting of the Golden Gate bridge…But never you mind about that Frg…not yet anyway, you haven't even painted the bridge once over yet - enjoy… :socool:
 
I had the same problem. That small piece of hose that connects to the pump has a check valve in it. On mine it was bad. Removed it and all worked well.


This was the issue! Thank you for bringing this to my attn. I would have missed it for sureImageUploadedByTrawler Forum1432385868.022630.jpgImageUploadedByTrawler Forum1432385882.007330.jpg
 
Greetings,
Mr. frg. Atta boy! See, there are NO problems only solutions. I think I should mention, thanks so much for posting all your "problems" AND the solutions to same. Your contributions are what makes TF such a valuable resource for not only newbies but for the more "seasoned" of us.
Mr. PB. I feel your pain. During the recent re-paint, I put a noticeable scratch in a freshly refurbished panel. My immediate response was a fleeting sense of despondency followed by "Ah well, at least THAT panel is painted." A rationalization to be sure BUT..."At least that panel is painted".

calitm.gif


...or the deity of one's choice.
 
This was the issue! Thank you for bringing this to my attn. I would have missed it for sure

I had to remove that check valve within hours of using the newly installed box.


I contacted Rile and the offered to send me a replacement which I am sure would have been exactly the same.

So I took it out, and now the sump cycles maybe 5-8 times after the shower ends due to the drain back...but does eventually stop.
 
As for the wiring. That is how I found it. Cleaning it all up as I go to include dielectric grease and proper terminals and butt connectors. The terminal block is high enough out of the way that I will skip a cover for it. Actually surprised there was even a block there!

FRG, I too am OCD about a dry bilge! Any stray water we suck out with a shop vac. Keeps the boat smell down to none existent status. The dielectric grease is the way to go. Sounds like you have it under control and are doing a fine job!!
 
FRG, I too am OCD about a dry bilge! Any stray water we suck out with a shop vac. Keeps the boat smell down to none existent status. The dielectric grease is the way to go. Sounds like you have it under control and are doing a fine job!!


Thanks Capt. John!
 
Glad that it was the problem. I really chased mine as well so I am glad that I could help.
 

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