Vitrifrigo Controller

[Max Simmons]

I've been having issues with my now 5 year old Vitrifrigo refer since day one. Even switched out the entire unit before the warrany expired. Now the controller is shot, only allowing it run on AC, not DC. Not a really huge deal, but requires that I turn on the inverter when on the hook. The replacement AC/DC controller runs around $350 for the part. I know it's a boat and things like this are supposed to cost 2 or 3 times what you would expect, but just wondering if anyone has an alternative source? Wishful thinking for sure, but I'd rather spend the $350 on a new downrigger!

 

[BobH]

I replaced the unit on our boat with a DC only because it was cheaper than the AC/DC unit. I figured if I had AC then I would also have DC. Not sure where I bought the unit but I think it was around $250.

Bob

 

[Capn Chuck]

This is why we chose the DC only version of the Vitrifrigo. You could plug it into a smaller dedicated inverter that would only run the fridge. Size it right and it will draw the same as the fridge when it was working properly. Chuck

 

[rwidman]

I've been having issues with my now 5 year old Vitrifrigo refer since day one. Even switched out the entire unit before the warrany expired. Now the controller is shot, only allowing it run on AC, not DC. Not a really huge deal, but requires that I turn on the inverter when on the hook. The replacement AC/DC controller runs around $350 for the part. I know it's a boat and things like this are supposed to cost 2 or 3 times what you would expect, but just wondering if anyone has an alternative source? Wishful thinking for sure, but I'd rather spend the $350 on a new downrigger!

You might get some help from the manufacturer if you explain how you've had trouble before. Be nice and polite about it. Maybe a discount on the replacement part or maybe they have a repair service.

Next to that, do a web search on the part or the part number. You might find someone selling them at a discount.

 

[Aquabelle]

I had the same controller fail, but in my case it was the AC side that went. Electrician removed the whole controller and direct-connected the compressor to DC. (That led to discovery that when running on AC via shorepower or inverter, the voltage and therefore fridge operation was fine, but on DC a too light cable/too long run resulted in voltage drop and unsatisfactory operation. You might want to check the voltage at the compressor if you decide to go DC only. Problem solved in my case by direct-connecting from battery buss-bar to fridge rather than via full circuit breaker board (with appropriate breakers and fuses in place of course).