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Old 07-26-2015, 06:08 AM   #1
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Venting the holding tank - sweettank

Hi
Im in the middle of a complete overhaul of the sanitation system. All new trident 101 hoses, new holding tank, fittings, etc. My stock vent is 5/8. I spent a good amount of time trying to add a second vent or increasing the size of the 5/8 vent but there was really no good solution. Too much cutting would have been required to change the stock vent size. So im stuck with about 6 feet of 5/8 vent hose. Hardly ideal for a healthy aerobic environment to decompose the waste. My tank is 55gals.

My plan is to add a sweettank air bubbler system to the holding tank.

Am i right to believe that actively pumping in air to the holding tank is better than adding a larger vent hose and my 5/8 vent with the sweettank bubbler should be fine?

Thanks
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Old 07-26-2015, 07:21 AM   #2
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The specs call for 5/8 or larger vent.
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Old 07-26-2015, 08:01 AM   #3
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the main reason for a tanb bubble system is for a large boat that Med Moors and the waste stench effects the other boats.

Most cruisers do not have this problem.

When we cruise we simply leave the cap off the deck discharge , no problem.

My concern would be the vent size when being pumped out.

Some waste boats and docks have a VERY strong suction system.

I would want a vent (perhaps open only when being pumped) , as large as the suction hose , usually 1 1/2 in.
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Old 07-26-2015, 08:02 AM   #4
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Before you spend the money on the bubbler, see how the 5/8 works. FYI, 3/4 worked just dandy on a tank 4 times that size, but that was also a freshwater system.

EDIT and PS: It pumped out just dandy as well, on a wide variety of pump outs. Was about a 4-5 foot lift from tank to pump out fitting.
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Old 07-26-2015, 10:52 AM   #5
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A larger vent would be better but I'm with George on this. Try it with your existing vent. If you have a problem you can install the bubbler later. A lot of boats get by with 5/8" vent lines.

Wait a minute, forget everything I just said!

Yes of course you need a Sweet Tank system, maybe two.
For a minute there I forgot what I do for a living.
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Old 07-26-2015, 11:00 AM   #6
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Too much cutting would have been required to change the stock vent size. So im stuck with about 6 feet of 5/8 vent hose. Hardly ideal for a healthy aerobic environment to decompose the waste. My tank is 55gals.



Aeration is a great solution--maybe the only solution if your tank is deeper than 18-20"...However, thanks to a li'l doodad called the Uniseal UNISEAL and Uniseal Instructions it's actually very easy to replace your vent line with a larger one. Just one cut with a hole saw to make a larger hole in the top of the tank...the right size Uniseal...and a piece of PVC pipe or a fitting from the plumbing department of any hardware store (while you're there, pick up a threaded plug and some Teflon tape to seal your existing vent fitting) to become the hose fitting....you're done. Ok...you'll also need a larger thru-hull--use a plain ol' open thru-hull--which will require using the hole saw again to enlarge the existing hole, or put in a new one, but that's not all that hard either!

When installed, maintained and operated according to the instructions, the Groco Sweetank system works! "According to instructions" means it MUST run 24/7/365 (except during any extended layup of course)...the tank has to be flushed out several times a year to get rid of any sludge...and it MAY be necessary to add a little aerobic bio-active "helper" after each pumpout.
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Old 07-26-2015, 11:02 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopCar View Post
A larger vent would be better but I'm with George on this. Try it with your existing vent. If you have a problem you can install the bubbler later. A lot of boats get by with 5/8" vent lines.

Wait a minute, forget everything I just said!

Yes of course you need a Sweet Tank system, maybe two.
For a minute there I forgot what I do for a living.
Get hold of yourself, Parks. Remember you have to feed Po Kitty.
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Old 07-26-2015, 11:53 AM   #8
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Thanks everyone for you input and thank you Peggy for jumping in - your book has been my bible for this project.

The cutting is in the stringer holes where the existing 5/8 hose was run. Once I changed my stock white VAC sanitation hose with the thicker OD tirdent 101 hose I have hardly any space in all the stringer holes cut by the manufacture to run a larger vent hose. I was all ready to cut a new through hull for a 3/4 or 1" hole but could never get a hose bigger than 5/8 up to it (without cutting a new pathway from my tank to the through hull which would be a major project). My new tank is all uniseal fittings. I haven't even drilled a hole in the tank yet. I'm planning on running all fitting from the top of the tank and PVC as much as possible where waste could potentially sit in the hose/pipe.

My plan is to keep the 5/8 vent, run sweettank 24/7 when in water, eliminate the charcoal filter from the vent and periodically put in some KO to keep the healthy bacteria going...

The fact that none said I was crazy for running 5/8 is comforting. I already bought the sweettank system and while I have everything apart it will be simple to install. I can initially keep it off and only turn on (24/7) if I start having an odor problem - like an insurance policy at the flick of a switch.

Quote:
My concern would be the vent size when being pumped out.
My tank will have a tank saver valve installed as well to protect against imploding the tank from a strong pump out. Are those not reliable?
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Old 07-26-2015, 11:58 AM   #9
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Could you run a second 5/8" hose through those existing cut outs?
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Old 07-26-2015, 12:39 PM   #10
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A larger vent would be better but I'm with George on this. Try it with your existing vent. If you have a problem you can install the bubbler later. A lot of boats get by with 5/8" vent lines.

Wait a minute, forget everything I just said!

Yes of course you need a Sweet Tank system, maybe two.
For a minute there I forgot what I do for a living.

Well I received my Noflex Digestor from HopCar despite Park's refusal to make a personal delivery. I will report on its effectiveness in the near future. I'm not sure that this is a thread hijack as it may be quite relavent. Howard
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Old 07-26-2015, 12:43 PM   #11
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Given the relatively low volume/velocity/pressure of the air that goes through the vent line, it is hard for me to understand how increasing from 5/8" would make a difference. What difference could it possibly make? I must be missing something.
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Old 07-26-2015, 01:16 PM   #12
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If I read his post correctly it was not a question as to the 5/8" handling the low flow of air from the aerator but rather the high volume of liquid/solids being sucked out during tank empty process and possible "implosion". Not likely in my opinion the amount of air in that short run would just move a lot quicker.

At 55 gals. I would caution against using any disinfecting /chlorine type bowl cleaners.
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Old 07-26-2015, 02:10 PM   #13
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Hmmmmm.....just reread post #1........
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Old 07-26-2015, 02:20 PM   #14
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Since I always anchor, and since my tank is nearly midships, I put two 5/8" vents in my tank. One runs forward w/ a clamshell over it into the wind when anchored; the second runs aft and faces downwind when anchored.
This gives good airflow w/o any moving parts and doubles the air intake capacity for that ocasional aggressive pumpout.
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Old 07-26-2015, 02:44 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denisl View Post
Hi
Im in the middle of a complete overhaul of the sanitation system. All new trident 101 hoses, new holding tank, fittings, etc. My stock vent is 5/8. I spent a good amount of time trying to add a second vent or increasing the size of the 5/8 vent but there was really no good solution. Too much cutting would have been required to change the stock vent size. So im stuck with about 6 feet of 5/8 vent hose. Hardly ideal for a healthy aerobic environment to decompose the waste. My tank is 55gals.

My plan is to add a sweettank air bubbler system to the holding tank.

Am i right to believe that actively pumping in air to the holding tank is better than adding a larger vent hose and my 5/8 vent with the sweettank bubbler should be fine?

Thanks
Our entire system is New toilets lines vent everything but tank next year I will replace the tank with a custom made 64 gallon tank

but I did increase the vent line from the old tank from a 1/2 inch to a 1 inch
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Old 07-26-2015, 02:54 PM   #16
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can initially keep it off and only turn on (24/7) if I start having an odor problem - like an insurance policy at the flick of a switch.

If you'e gonna do that, return the Sweetank, 'cuz without any air pushing sludge away from the piping it'll quickly become clogged...You'll have to clean it to use it the first time. And I don't think you realize that the Sweetank can recover an anerobic tank, but it's not something that happens the minute you turn it on...it takes HOURS--an entire day or even longer, during which time the air generated by aerator pump is pushing gawdawful odor out the vent! So either commit to it or return it.

My tank will have a tank saver valve installed as well to protect against imploding the tank from a strong pump out.

Not needed. 5/8" is--has always been--the industry standard vent line size for every tank on a boat...if that were too small to stand up to strong pumpout equipment, the industry standard would have been upgraded to a larger diameter a couple of decades ago. Pumpouts only implode tanks that have BLOCKED vent lines...in which case it wouldn't matter if your vent was 2".
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Old 07-26-2015, 03:02 PM   #17
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Quote:
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At 55 gals. I would caution against using any disinfecting /chlorine type bowl cleaners.
Don't use them if the tank were only 2 gallons or even if the toilet only flushes directly overboard. Chlorine is highly destructive to the rubber parts in toilets, breaks down hose resistance to odor permeation...kills the bacteria in a tank that's needed to break down solids and TP and when combined with vinegar produces a gas that's even more toxic than combining chlorine and ammonia. NEVER use ANY household chemical bowl cleaners, Lysol, pine oil cleaners, bleach or any petroleum based product in a marine sanitation system.
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Old 07-26-2015, 04:36 PM   #18
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Don't use them if the tank were only 2 gallons or even if the toilet only flushes directly overboard. Chlorine is highly destructive to the rubber parts in toilets, breaks down hose resistance to odor permeation...kills the bacteria in a tank that's needed to break down solids and TP and when combined with vinegar produces a gas that's even more toxic than combining chlorine and ammonia. NEVER use ANY household chemical bowl cleaners, Lysol, pine oil cleaners, bleach or any petroleum based product in a marine sanitation system.
One of the first investment we bought was Peggy's book just amazing her knowledge

Our decision to change heads and entire system came after the forward head broke for the 4th time in 3 months old and worn out and raw water flush ( a bit smelly)

After replacing everything but the tank and vent line , we noticed the 1/2 vent line collapsing during pump out ( this was after we replaced the top seal on the tank it was leaking

Then I replaced the old vent and vent line after the new line did not supply enough air

Next will be my custom larger tank
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Old 07-26-2015, 05:16 PM   #19
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Could you run a second 5/8" hose through those existing cut outs?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I, too, did that. One vent line out the port side, one vent line out the stbd. side.

It's not perfect as I still need a de-odorizer but not bad.

I do also use the charcoal filters but I've cut and modified them using a pvc union so they can be reused/recharged. The union is offset to one end as far as it will go so repacking will be easier.

I though it was ridiculous to toss the old filter and then pay $100 - $150 per filter.
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Old 07-26-2015, 05:32 PM   #20
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On a previous boat I had good luck w/ a second vent that was short and straight... bends & length are an enemy.
Take a look at my website - I have added a bubbler and very satisfied w/ the results.
Bacchus website
A LOT less $ than the sweettank system...
Don
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