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Old 12-21-2013, 11:31 PM   #1
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UV water filters

Anybody ever use these before? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
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Old 12-21-2013, 11:58 PM   #2
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I have a few similar filters of varying sizes 3/4" through 2" IPS, most manufactured by Cuno. They work as advertised but have found the water needs to circulate when they are on. At least in the larger sizes as they tend to heat the water trapped in them when not flowing. Most of mine are installed in deionized water purification systems.

No idea what the advertised lamp life is but have a 2" IPS 60 GPM model with 6 lamps equipped with a Hobbs meter. The last time I looked it had about 17,000 hours on it and no lamp failure yet. The units are completely maintenance free.

Replacement lamps are spendy but I haven't had to replace one yet.
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Old 12-22-2013, 12:43 AM   #3
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I have a few similar filters of varying sizes 3/4" through 2" IPS, most manufactured by Cuno. They work as advertised but have found the water needs to circulate when they are on. At least in the larger sizes as they tend to heat the water trapped in them when not flowing. Most of mine are installed in deionized water purification systems. No idea what the advertised lamp life is but have a 2" IPS 60 GPM model with 6 lamps equipped with a Hobbs meter. The last time I looked it had about 17,000 hours on it and no lamp failure yet. The units are completely maintenance free. Replacement lamps are spendy but I haven't had to replace one yet.
Just to be clear on your boat right? And how hot does it get, because I would think that would mess up our fridge ice maker.
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Old 12-22-2013, 02:22 AM   #4
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UV is not filtration but simply a means of rendering pre-filtered water as safe as possible by nuking bacteria. It has limited effect against viruses and pathogens. What/why do you want to use it? Plenty of qualified people who can give you good advice if we know what you are trying to achieve.
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Old 12-22-2013, 06:13 AM   #5
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IF you install a unit it can be plumbed to safe the water as it enters your tank or dockside pressure system , and with a valve or two to again safe the water from the tank to the on board users.

They take a second or two to start killing so a large accumulator tank will have less time when the pump pushes water and the lamp goes on.
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Old 12-22-2013, 08:55 AM   #6
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UV is not filtration but simply a means of rendering pre-filtered water as safe as possible by nuking bacteria. It has limited effect against viruses and pathogens. What/why do you want to use it? Plenty of qualified people who can give you good advice if we know what you are trying to achieve.
Were looking to have clean enough water for ice making. I know they kill bacteria, I'm thinking of putting filters before it.
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Old 12-22-2013, 10:17 AM   #7
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No idea what the advertised lamp life is but have a 2" IPS 60 GPM model with 6 lamps equipped with a Hobbs meter. The last time I looked it had about 17,000 hours on it and no lamp failure yet. The units are completely maintenance free.

Replacement lamps are spendy but I haven't had to replace one yet.
Most UV light s have an 8-10,000 hour life span, after that point they still light but the UV output has diminished to the point of being ineffective. I generally change mine out on a yearly basis. YMMV

http://www.himnrbehs.com/himnrbehs/p...tra.Violet.pdf

http://www.ultravation.com/replacement-filters-lamps/
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Old 12-22-2013, 11:19 AM   #8
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Just to be clear on your boat right? And how hot does it get, because I would think that would mess up our fridge ice maker.
No. These are land based process piping installations. I never shot the unit with an infrared gun but hot enough to get your attention when touching the tank.

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Most UV light s have an 8-10,000 hour life span, after that point they still light but the UV output has diminished to the point of being ineffective. I generally change mine out on a yearly basis. YMMV http://www.himnrbehs.com/himnrbehs/p...tra.Violet.pdf http://www.ultravation.com/replacement-filters-lamps/
Interesting, thanks for this. I'll look deeper into it next month when scheduled to sample again. We take frequent water samples and send them to a lab for analysis. We've yet to fail a test so far though.
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Old 12-22-2013, 02:17 PM   #9
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Were looking to have clean enough water for ice making. I know they kill bacteria, I'm thinking of putting filters before it.
Best to use an activated carbon filter, it removes residual chlorine and odours.
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Old 12-22-2013, 02:40 PM   #10
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Best to use an activated carbon filter, it removes residual chlorine and odours.
Thanks, I'll check them out.
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Old 12-22-2013, 09:25 PM   #11
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Were looking to have clean enough water for ice making. I know they kill bacteria, I'm thinking of putting filters before it.
Make sure you size it for your fw pump's max flow rate and your inverter/battery capacity before you order one. For clear ice you need to go ro unless you are going to filter down to 1 micron. Carbon filtration is to remove scents and flavors and won't do squat to any bacteria that can ruin someone's trip.

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Old 12-22-2013, 09:29 PM   #12
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Make sure you size it for your fw pump's max flow rate and your inverter/battery capacity before you order one. For clear ice you need to go ro unless you are going to filter down to 1 micron. Carbon filtration is to remove scents and flavors and won't do squat to any bacteria that can ruin someone's trip. Via iPad using Trawler
Yeah I made sure. Bit haven't ordered one yet.
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Old 12-23-2013, 02:05 AM   #13
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Filtering to 1 micron does jack all except for industrial and medical process waters and will not remove bacteria. Activated carbon and UV is all you need. If using second pass RO water (Purer than 20ppm) then you must add a mineral or any metals in your ice machine will corrode very rapidly.
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Old 12-23-2013, 06:42 AM   #14
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If using second pass RO water (Purer than 20ppm) then you must add a mineral or any metals in your ice machine will corrode very rapidly.
Really? Like to see some evidence of that.

How does one "add a mineral" and what mineral does one add?
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Old 12-23-2013, 01:24 PM   #15
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We had a similar unit made by Culligan in my first house to disinfect the well water. Depending on the mineral content of the water you put through it, you may have to clean the clear quartz tube occaisionally. We were in a high iron area, and the tube would cloud up. I think I cleaned it about once a year, not a difficult job. Other than that, there is no maintenance required. The lamp was still working after four years when we moved out.
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Old 12-23-2013, 01:54 PM   #16
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Really? Like to see some evidence of that.

How does one "add a mineral" and what mineral does one add?
Sorry, too far away from you to show copper reticulation full of holes. High purity RO water is demineralised, any mineral based reticulation it passes through will naturally want to "give up" minerals to it. Demineralised water is very corrosive, ask anyone involved in RO water treatment. The usual minerals added to protect reticulation are calcium carbonate or calcium chloride, injected via precision dosing pumps.
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Old 12-23-2013, 02:20 PM   #17
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Sorry, too far away from you to show copper reticulation full of holes. High purity RO water is demineralised, any mineral based reticulation it passes through will naturally want to "give up" minerals to it. Demineralised water is very corrosive, ask anyone involved in RO water treatment. The usual minerals added to protect reticulation are calcium carbonate or calcium chloride, injected via precision dosing pumps.
You're talking about RO water that has little or no TDS (total dissolved solids). The RO systems on our boat (s), when converting salt water to fresh, usually run around 200-250 ppm TDS. Not a problem for the plumbing, ice makers or us.
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Old 12-23-2013, 02:22 PM   #18
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You're talking about RO water that has little or no TDS. The RO systems on our boat (s) usually run around 200-250 ppm. Not a problem for the plumbing or ice makers.
I was assuming low pressure RO for secondary treatment, hence my stipulation of <20 ppm. I believe these low pressure systems are very common in the US.
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Old 12-23-2013, 06:29 PM   #19
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I was assuming low pressure RO for secondary treatment, hence my stipulation of <20 ppm.
Having spent a large portion of my working life making fresh water from salt for use in high pressure boilers (900psi/900F) that require feed water that makes RO water look brackish in comparison, I can attest that the plumbing (copper/CuNi/mild steel/cast iron/SS) does not corrode away before your eyes.

There are several reasons why demineralized water might contribute to corrosion in a few circumstances but it usually involves more factors than the typical commercial or recreational vessel or house has to offer.
Copper &amp; the Environment: How The Copper Industry Helps Solve Corrosion Problems
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Old 12-23-2013, 08:54 PM   #20
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A pissing contest is unlikely to be of benefit to the OP. A high pressure boiler is a different beast to an ice machine and in fact low pressure boilers treat their water with sodium or calcium carbonate but for different reasons.
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