Too Snake or Not Snake

[Keith]

You can use KO and vinegar. I've been doing it for years per Peggy's advice.

 

[rwidman]

To add to the excellent advice so far given, don't think of it so much as pulling the new hose in with the old. Rather think of pushing the new hose in and guiding it along with the old hose. Definitely a 2 person job IOW.

One person can do it if necessary. Push, go to the other end and pull, go back and push, repeat.

It's a lot like pulling wire or cable.

 

[Blue Heron]

Head install complete. Purchased 2 jabsco Electrics and 30 foot of Shields 101. Took me and a buddy 5 hours yesterday to pull the hoses, remount the heads and wire, and clamp. Hardest part was the small spaces to work in. But the end result is new heads and new hoses. What a huge difference in quality of life!
Saved myself 500.00 plus on labor by doing it myself.
I think next time I will go with rigid sked 40 in the Engine room instead of the hose.
cannot for the life of me understand why some people remove old hose and beat it and then put it back in.. no way.. not me!
anyways wanted to post the outcome of my original post.

 

[FlyWright]

BH, We replaced our old Raritan meat grinder with a Jabsco Quiet Flush and all hoses including the vent line. What a major difference in peace and quiet, ease of function and low flow/extended use of holding tank between pumpouts. We consider it one of our most significant upgrades.

 

[Peter B]

Congrats, and well done, Working on toilets is the s**ts is it not. One job you hope never to have to do again. But new hoses etc is the way to go. Just wish they were a bit easier to get on - and let's not even mention getting off...still gives me bad dreams...

 

[Blue Heron]

Thanks Peter. Yes it was best but I sure hope not to have to do it again! Yikes!
Flywroight , i love the term "Meat grinder"...

 

[FlyWright]

...Just wish they were a bit easier to get on - and let's not even mention getting off...still gives me bad dreams...

We used our onboard heat gun that we use for electrical shrink wrap. It worked like a champ...making the hose as soft and supple as fine Italian leather.

 

[BobH]

For what it's worth, there was a recent series of articles in Practical Sailor about sanitation hoses and such. One problem was getting a particular brand of hose onto fittings. They contacted the manufacturer and were strongly advised against using a heat gun to softwen the hose.

Bob

 

[psneeld]

For what it's worth, there was a recent series of articles in Practical Sailor about sanitation hoses and such. One problem was getting a particular brand of hose onto fittings. They contacted the manufacturer and were strongly advised against using a heat gun to softwen the hose.

Bob

I would be worried about that hose in an engine room environment then...we aren't talking about cooking the hose!!!!

 

[Blue Heron]

Good Point psneeld!

 

[Marin]

We've used a heat gun to remove hoses from fixtures for years after being told about the technique by the shipwright we used to use. It doesn't take much heat at all. The hose never gets too hot to grab with bare hands even the moment after the heat is shut off. So I can't see how this minimal amount of heat would damage the integrity of the hose.

If you played the gun on the hose for a long time I can understand how the excess heat could damage it.

 

[ARoss]

I'm going thru the hose replacement exercise too. PO had installed the old hose with a couple of splices with barbed connection pieces, and I think that's where the clogs were occurring. To get the old hose off, I wound up having to cut it at the connection to the head (a Jabsco electric, 1" output fitting) but I am having a #%@&*() of a time getting the new hose on there over the end barb. I put a heat gun to the new hose, and put a little liquid detergent on both pieces, but still cannot get the hose to stretch enough to fit. Other than hiring Popeye or somebody else with a lot of muscle, are there any suggestions?

 

[rochepoint]

Ice the fitting the hose goes on, put the hose end in boiling hot water and give it a wipe with liquid detergent.......always works for me. Good Luck!

 

[rwidman]

It's easy to fail to fully heat the hose with the heat gun. It takes some experience to know how hot to get it, but it should be pretty hot. Also, don't just heat the end, you want a couple inches of length heated.

"Radiator Hose Grease" is available at auto parts stoes and is a better product than sish detergent for lubrication.

Hint: When you push the hose onto the fitting, make sure it goes all the way the first time. Stop half way and you'll probably have to cut it off and start over ahain.

 

[ARoss]

Update. I decided that the crud that was still on the hose barb was probably not helping getting the new hose on, so I pulled it, brought it home and cleaned it up with a wire brush wheel. A piece of "test hose" goes on OK now. Turned out to be a good decision, since removing the fitting also disclosed that the joker valve inside was pretty much shot. Fitting it all back together on the boat should be a snap.

 

[Shoalwaters]

Holding the end of a hose in an old coffee cup of boiling water for 20 seconds or so will soften it nicely without fear of burning.

 

[Blue Heron]

Just make sure not to serve coffee from that cup!

 

[BobH]

The April issue of Pratical Sailor had test results for sanitation hoses. Trident 101/102 and Raritan Sani/Flex were highly recommended as being easy to install. The Raritan was exteremely flexible as well.

The SeaLand Odor Safe Plus, sold by WM, was listed as exteremely difficult to install. SeLland does NOT recommend heating the hose according to the article.

Bob

 

[Steve]

Just make sure not to serve coffee from that cup!

You wouldn't waste all that nice hot water would you?
Steve W