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Old 06-16-2012, 08:02 PM   #21
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Recently dealt with the same problem. Couldn't even rotate the Y valves.... So off they come as well as all the hoses....... Some banging and thumping of the hoses got rid of the salt and mineral buildup, but I had to work a little bit gentler with the y valves. Our problem was with both heads at about the same time....and it was the same problem as the OP's.
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Old 06-16-2012, 09:09 PM   #22
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From the OPs description I can think of at least a couple of potential causes. One, as Hop Car suggested, is a blocked holding tank vent. The fact the toilet pump will pump some water out but then not any more is consistent with a vent blockage. We've had this happen once when we let the holding tank get full and subsequent flushes pushed material into the vent hose and plugged it. Our subsequent problem was that the tank could not be emptied. Fortunately we have a pump-out line flush fitting which let us relieve the vaccum in the tank periodically so we could empty it. We cleared the blockage by shooting water from a hose backwards through the vent line.

Another possibility is that there is some loose but undissolvable material in the line to the holding tank and flushing causes it to move into a position to block the line. Someone mentioned shop towels or such, and this kind of material could cause the problem you are experiencing.

I think a snake if used slowly (like one of those manually rotated snakes) could be okay to check a hose line but I would not run it through any Y-valves or other fittings with internal components that could be damaged. Sanitation hoses have a way of forming an interior buildup over time that can greatly reduce their inside diameter. When this happens it doesn't take much to cause a complete or partial blockage.

I also second the idea of obtaining an operator, parts, and rebuild manual for whatever toilet one has on board. Often the instructions and drawings that come with a rebuild kit are sufficient. There is a lot of truth to the old saying, "when all else fails read the instructions." Manual toilets, like our Groco Jurassic Series EBs, are so simple even a caveman can figure them out. But newer electric or vacuum toilets might have less-than-obvious quirks to their operation or maintenance that are not so intuitive to figure out. So don't knock the suggestions to obtain a manual--- it may well contain the answer to the problem one is having.
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Old 06-26-2012, 01:11 PM   #23
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Point is rendered moot. Discharge line was caked full of crap paper and hardened in foot intervals. Cant save it. Going to pull both Heads and hoses and start fresh.
Thanks for the inputs. Will let you know how it turns out
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Old 06-26-2012, 01:27 PM   #24
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Glad the issue is figured out. ***Can I present a new question along the same lines? About a month ago I replaced the front head with a new fresh water flush Raritan Elegance. The head was seldom used and it gave me a practice run for the rear head. Originally the boat was sea water flush. I have started on the rear installation and was suprised to see about a 40% restriction in the hose running to the holding tank. I replaced the hose 2-3 years ago (tank truck hose is what I use) and occasionally added vinegar to get rid of deposits. I have already flushed the holding tank and converted to KO by Raritan as Peggy has suggested. Once the installation is complete, I'm net sure how to get rid of the build up. My understanding is that when using KO- nothi g else should be added to the holding tank. Such as vinegar. Any thoughts?
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Old 07-01-2012, 09:29 PM   #25
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Point is rendered moot. Discharge line was caked full of crap paper and hardened in foot intervals. Cant save it. Going to pull both Heads and hoses and start fresh.
Thanks for the inputs. Will let you know how it turns out
One very serious suggestion: It might not be best to just disconnect a hose and pull it out.... It would be best to "at a minimum" attach a fishwire to the old hose, so that when you pull out the old one....you have something to pull the new one back through with...

I made the mistake "ONCE" of not doing the above...and paid dearly in time sweat, bruises and cuts to put in the new one....not to mention the heckling of "the Admiral" who suggested I use the fishwire.....
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Old 07-02-2012, 03:05 AM   #26
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One very serious suggestion: It might not be best to just disconnect a hose and pull it out.... It would be best to "at a minimum" attach a fishwire to the old hose, so that when you pull out the old one....you have something to pull the new one back through with...

I made the mistake "ONCE" of not doing the above...and paid dearly in time sweat, bruises and cuts to put in the new one....not to mention the heckling of "the Admiral" who suggested I use the fishwire.....
Good point, I'm even lazier and usually just tape (firmly) the end of the new hose to the old and pull the new through as I pull the old out - works for me.
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Old 07-02-2012, 08:25 AM   #27
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Good point, I'm even lazier and usually just tape (firmly) the end of the new hose to the old and pull the new through as I pull the old out - works for me.
To piggyback on that suggestion, use the appropriate size double barbed coupling to join the hoses, then tape them (no hose clamps).
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Old 07-02-2012, 10:46 AM   #28
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Good call guys I was wondering how I was going to rehose it. rwidman, good idea on tape only I cant get the hoses through the rat holes with the clamps on. Gonna go shopping for hoses and heads today. Will update with any questions and will report prgress when complete this weekend
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Old 07-02-2012, 11:34 AM   #29
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Good call guys I was wondering how I was going to rehose it. rwidman, good idea on tape only I cant get the hoses through the rat holes with the clamps on.
Don't put clamps on the hoses. Join them with the barbed coupling, then run tape around the hoses from one piece to the other so they won't come apart. The coupling keeps the ends of the hoses aligned.
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Old 07-02-2012, 06:54 PM   #30
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To add to the excellent advice so far given, don't think of it so much as pulling the new hose in with the old. Rather think of pushing the new hose in and guiding it along with the old hose. Definitely a 2 person job IOW.
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Old 07-03-2012, 08:24 AM   #31
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You can use KO and vinegar. I've been doing it for years per Peggy's advice.
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Old 07-03-2012, 08:55 AM   #32
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To add to the excellent advice so far given, don't think of it so much as pulling the new hose in with the old. Rather think of pushing the new hose in and guiding it along with the old hose. Definitely a 2 person job IOW.
One person can do it if necessary. Push, go to the other end and pull, go back and push, repeat.

It's a lot like pulling wire or cable.
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Old 07-14-2012, 09:29 AM   #33
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Head install complete. Purchased 2 jabsco Electrics and 30 foot of Shields 101. Took me and a buddy 5 hours yesterday to pull the hoses, remount the heads and wire, and clamp. Hardest part was the small spaces to work in. But the end result is new heads and new hoses. What a huge difference in quality of life!
Saved myself 500.00 plus on labor by doing it myself.
I think next time I will go with rigid sked 40 in the Engine room instead of the hose.
cannot for the life of me understand why some people remove old hose and beat it and then put it back in.. no way.. not me!
anyways wanted to post the outcome of my original post.
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Old 07-15-2012, 06:59 PM   #34
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BH, We replaced our old Raritan meat grinder with a Jabsco Quiet Flush and all hoses including the vent line. What a major difference in peace and quiet, ease of function and low flow/extended use of holding tank between pumpouts. We consider it one of our most significant upgrades.
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Old 07-16-2012, 08:23 AM   #35
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Congrats, and well done, Working on toilets is the s**ts is it not. One job you hope never to have to do again. But new hoses etc is the way to go. Just wish they were a bit easier to get on - and let's not even mention getting off...still gives me bad dreams...
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Old 07-16-2012, 09:13 AM   #36
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Thanks Peter. Yes it was best but I sure hope not to have to do it again! Yikes!
Flywroight , i love the term "Meat grinder"...
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Old 07-16-2012, 02:05 PM   #37
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...Just wish they were a bit easier to get on - and let's not even mention getting off...still gives me bad dreams...
We used our onboard heat gun that we use for electrical shrink wrap. It worked like a champ...making the hose as soft and supple as fine Italian leather.
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Old 07-16-2012, 07:08 PM   #38
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For what it's worth, there was a recent series of articles in Practical Sailor about sanitation hoses and such. One problem was getting a particular brand of hose onto fittings. They contacted the manufacturer and were strongly advised against using a heat gun to softwen the hose.

Bob
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Old 07-16-2012, 08:09 PM   #39
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For what it's worth, there was a recent series of articles in Practical Sailor about sanitation hoses and such. One problem was getting a particular brand of hose onto fittings. They contacted the manufacturer and were strongly advised against using a heat gun to softwen the hose.

Bob
I would be worried about that hose in an engine room environment then...we aren't talking about cooking the hose!!!!
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Old 07-16-2012, 09:29 PM   #40
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Good Point psneeld!
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